MBS206

Least my car drives... And doesn't have aeration to the fuel system... Maybe I'll be nice and let Chubbsy drive it over to the dyno day...

The question is... Do I leave my car alone, get some how get it up there in a manner I can come home if it breaks the bearing, and see what this turbo is currently able to push in the current form...

lol

If you use say 75% throttle, does it do the same, 90% throttle? If no, there's a wiring issue, and it sounds like something is crossing up with the TPS sensor. Edit: Simple test, with key switched to on, engine off, put the accelerator flat to the floor, does the AFM read 5V? Edit: Just checked the wiring diagram, and there is the variable TPS read out, and there is an idle/WOT switch also. I'd be guessing the WOT switch could be connected over to the AFM by accident if the above test yields a "yes, it reads 5V at WOT engine off"

They are...The older V6 commodores love to get on the break... The 3.6L prefer to make power in revs over torque, and aren't as easy to have fun with.

LOL, those 3.6L are shit...Should have bought a slightly older 3.8L... They just love to skid!

LOL @ everyone going "I'm in" and not realising the thread started on Friday, and was meant for a friday cruise... ROFL

If mine weren't so much of a pain in the ass to take off my car, I'd pull it off and lend it to you. It's a good plazmaman cooler. That way you could just do a test on it.

Put a V8 in... Or a stock turbo back on, or rebuilt with steel wheels at least

You'll probably be looking around the 320RWKW region I'd reckon with that turbo on a 25/30... The difference will be though, it'll make that power 1000RPM earlier, with more torque. On the street it just won't be comparable to a 320RWKW RB25

Thought I'd let you all know, I'm not coming, got home at 5:30AM, have barely slept, and skyline isn't starting atm.

Not with 390RWKW...

Oh okay, didn't realise there was a difference... :S Figured a 50mm gate when it opens 1mm has the same surface area opening as any other? Have any more info on the synchronic? he only had issues when he ran with the screamer on.

If you keep it below 6500RPM, and keep boost below 18PSi, she'll be sweet man. Unless you're a thrasher, that goes out every weekend ripping massive 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts. Even then still depending how you drive it'll hold together for a while. My setups, I'd have no issues running IF I were just driving around on the street and the occasional WSID meet. But mine ONLY lives at driving events... Hence, a hard hard life...

If youwant streetable response, look at the GT3076 or the 3082. When that gets thrown on the RB25/30, you'll have an unreal combination that will NOT have to be revved, but will be able to when needed.

They're easy! Why do people dread them so much? :S

I know the VRS kit comes with all the seals you need. Including a head gasket, inlet mani and exhaust mani. You could go to Nissan and buy them seperate. Probably cost you $100 or there abouts. VRS kit = $330 from Nissan.

A dirty CAS won't cause that issue. A dirty CAS won't give you any driving issues. A dirty CAS is only a PITA when you're trying to put it back on. A stuffed CAS usually has timing jumping, not completely dieing. Sounds like a wiring loom coming loose.

I'd try a slightlysmaller gate too... around the 44mm mark. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ex...mp;hl=wastegate That might help you keep boost up when running the screamer.

What size waste gate are you running also?

If it picks up power (And you can hold boost) then the dump/exhaust is being restrictive.

A slapper, is slapped together, with the mind set of "She'll be right" You're doing a rebuild.

So with the current discussion, not comparable. We've been discussing with respect to plumbing back. I asked NYTSKY if he was running screamer, hasn't yet responded, other wise you'd rule out the whole exhaust system and run a 3" for the whole system.

The easiest test to find out if the dump/exhaust is being a restriction, is quite simply to drop it. But can anyone find a car make 400RWKW with a 3" dump? Most I know of from experience run 3.5" - 4" dumps, and then a 3.5" system. While you're say going to a smaller pipe increases speed, decreases pressure. You also have to know for a fact, that whilst you go really small, the speed of the gas might be super quick, and low pressure in that section, but the section before has been restricted down basically, and it now has a huge pressure build up. Run too small of a dump, the pressure in the turbo / exhaust manifold starts to build up, and counteract the pressure going INTO the motor. It's not like I said go and put a 6" dump as from experience, everyone knows that it will become detrimental to the exhaust flow. Whilst the hotter gas is less dense, it also takes up more area. And that's the big problem, as it's exitting the turbo, exhaust gas can be as hot as 850degrees, by the time it reaches that tail pipe, a mere 200 - 400 degrees. Half the temperature, half the density... So you need half the area for the cooler gas... I agree, there is an art to building exhausts, bigger is not always better, but experience tells me, for 400KW, a 3" dump is too small.

Please, change the name of the thread... This is not a slapper. A slapper is a matter of grabbing a running RB30E, pulling the head off, slap an RB26 or RB25 head on (once you do things like block the oil hole in the 25 head). Do the tensioners, run the external oil feed for VVT, do the external front drain off the factory spot on the 25 head. Put motor in car, start it, warm it up, rip a skid, check for leaks. (Yes, in that order)