MBS206

The advantage of the welded/spooled diff, is you KNOW everytime you give it a hit around a corner, both wheels are going to spin. With an LSD, the LSD picks and chooses if it'll single spin, or double... My R33 is horrible for this. Give it a big kick in the guts, it'll single, so you just keep turning normally, then it'll double up step you out sideways so you have to throw a heap of anti lock at it, and then it decides to single again, and you guessed it, your front wheels are now pointed the wrong way... I've also came through the same corner, mearly a minute after I went through last time. First time I went through it basically slightly singled. Came through the second time and instead it decides it wants a massive double coming out... With the locker/spool/welded diff, you'll NEVER have to worry about single wheeling occasions. LSDs wear out, and when they wear, they become unpredictable.

It may have cost you 30K more to throw into the R32, but what you have to think about, the guys attempting to compare, an old car, to a new car. AND he was attempting to take a modified car, which has NOTHING you can really level it against without him properly running it down the quarter and getting times. Hence, to "level" it back up, you need to throw the extra money at the new V8, OR leave the R32 stock. Oh, and you may want to check out the price of SS now... They have come down a fair bit BRAND NEW with the economic crisis... As to the guy who spent 6.5K and failed to get over 270RWKW, go call GM Motorsport RIGHT NOW, ask them what they can net you 1/4mile wise, and power wise, (The quickest) with just the basics of a 4-1 Exhaust, and a cam and a tune. You may well be surprised, especially since they're GUARANTEEING their work last time I read... I think you got jipped mate...

Ceramic exhaust wheels hate these things... The heat put out from the raw flame passing them is ALOT hotter, then just the exhaust gas... Also, raw fuel in exhaust = terrible for Cats...

LOL @ all the people in this thread so wound up about how "great" imports are... Seriously, go start comparing the power levels of V8s and their MPH at the drag strip (And 1/4 mile times too!) then do it with the Import turbos... Better yet, enter any turbos data into the calculators out there for working out MPH and ET, then laugh at how far slower they really are... Seriously, if in 6 months time my RB30 bottom end blows in my R33, it's coming out, and in will go an LS2... I took a VE SS (STOCK) for a test run when I had just the RB25 in my R33... The ability to light the tyres up 1000RPM just by squeezing the throttle... Yeah... It kinda shocked me... The V8 just kept on pulling the whole way through the rev range... There was no "waiting" for boost, it just pulled the same the whole way... And it was quicker... Now then, lets take this simple R32 that's pushing 240RWKW... and throw the same amount of money at a VE SS... So turbo + mani = what let's say $2500... FMIC - $600 Injectors - $800 ECU + tune - $1500... So we've spent $4400... And you're running what sort of time? In the 12s? New VE SS... Spend that on the SS, and you should be cranking High 10s... GM Motorsport did just this... Cam package, tune, and things like filters etc... In an auto... High 10s... (10.87 to be exact @ 128MPH) So,will your R32 with the same amount of money spent on it keep up with a new V8 is a much better question... And simply, NO.

PSI: For working out the best fuel economy, you will need to know what your cars drag coefficient through air is at 100km/h. This can be easily found out, by looking at your ECU and finding out what RPM you're sitting at, then seeing how much throttle you're applying and wack the car on the dyno, apply the same amount of throttle, and hold it at that RPM... That's how much power you need to apply to keep the vehicle cruising at 100km/h... Then you'll need to look at your torque curve... And some funky trial and error on some calculations to get to a point, where at 100km/h, you're still making the same amount of POWER at the wheels, but dropping into a region that has a better DC... Be aware, when doing a DECREASE in diff ratio, you CAN increase fuel economy, if the motor begins to labour...

The only thing that affects tunes, is if the car isn't tuned 100%. IE, it's not just about setting up your fuel and ignition maps, you need to adjust trim over different temperatures etc. Obviously, on an AFM car, if tuned in summer, when driving in winter you will hit certain points on the map that are untuned, as you can draw in more cold air and get to different load cells. Hence, it's all about getting a competent tuner. Not sure how GT does his, as I haven't spoken to him, and for this reason, I couldn't just turn my car over to him. BUT, in saying that, give me half an hour of his time, and my arsenal of queries and questions, and I'm sure he'd have my car keys in one hand and driving off... As it is, I plan to query him on setting up an ignition map soon.

Erm... That tells me you want to reduce from 18mm to 12mm... And most likely the thread pitch is 1.25mm... Go back to bunnings...

NSW clearly states, in VSI 06 (Search for it on the RTA website) that emissions must meet that of whichever is NEWER. IE, LS6 into HQ = Meets LS6 emissions. Old 350 into a new VE Commodore, = Meets VE Commodore emissions. The VSI 06 document clearly states this, and as we know, it's much easier to get a new engine and keep it at its emissions standard, rather then bring an old engine up to new standards. Hence why most people claim that you can only put an engine into a different car if the engine is newer then the car... As it's simpler, and they have NFI...

You can run a 1.1mm gap, quite easily. Even on 10PSi... I run a 1.1mm gap, and was at one point pushing 18PSi off a big huffer turbo, into a 3.0L block, without an issue of misfire. I was also running 12PSi on the RB25 setup with a 1.1mm gap, without an issue in the world. The stock plug gap is set at 1.1mm, and the FRESH coils from the factory, will run this, even with a few PSi more being thrown at it, so why wouldn't a set of coils that generate from memory a 50% stronger spark?

Black Flagged - You'll be followed everywhere, and constantly pulled over. Changing plates won't help it. It's tagged to your licence + car. I had to start disappearing a few times smartly after I got done "high speed"... Basically, I was lucky I had friends and family that worked around where I kept getting followed and would just pull in down a long driveway and they'd drive off...

Bubba, what time, MPH, and RWHP are you running?

Um... Are you not the water pump and oil pump etc? As for the dump, cut it and get 38mm longer added into it... IC Piping, is usually change one pipe. More machining? What more machining? Skim the head, deck the block... Are you not doing this on the RB25? I had my head modified to retain VVT for my second head (DIdn't have it on the first, still torquey as hell down low) Cost me $20 to have the stuff welded, and tapped. And has cost me $250 in external oil lines, but that's including doing oil drain mods, which you'd be HIGHLY advised to do on the RB25 also...

I'm with GIO, and I just renewed with them. Even got them to lower the price even more then they already had... I'm covered for over $23 000 agreed value, but with EVERY little piece modified on my car listed. I can park it on the street, do what ever in it, my excess if an unlisted person drives it is like $5000... But other then that, not overly too bad. I went with them when I was 20. This is my second year. I was originally with Famous and WILL NOT go back there ever again. Bastards hiked my premium up, even though my NCB got better! Went from car had to be parked further then 500m away if not in my garage, to must be parked over 1KM away if not in my garage to be covered, excesses went up. Told them to shove it where it fit. Just Cars were pretty much a bunch of ass-wipes when I tried to deal with them. Next time I renew I'll be looking at Shannons or Lumley Special Vehicles. Shannons WERE going to insure me, even though I was under 25 due to a few good things for me... But the premium was still a little high, and the guy even told me to go with GIO Custom Car.

You guys obviously fail at budgetting hey? Put a bit of money aside each week and it pays for itself... Plus you get interest on it.

Should be ~240 - 250km/h. But it's ridiculous to want to get to those speeds anyway

Coil packs... Go buy some split fires, and regap out to 1.1mm.

Sounds head gaskety to me with the water issue. But the rattle sounds bearing.

Same thing man, 245/40/18... I couldn't quite remember the size you siad. On a low profile, really, 36PSi is the LOWEST you want to go. I HAD to run a set of Falkens at 32PSi before as I had severe straight line grip issues... Spoke to a person I know at a tyre shop, and they said they'd normally put them at 38PSi, if there's issues with wheel spin in a straight line under moderate throttle, they'd drop them to as low as 36PSi... Thye were a touch shocked when we had to get mine to run at 32PSi... Made cornering bullshit though... From memory I went back to 36... And it was purely that the tyres, even though low profile, just rolled around too much...

Motor sounds definitely fubar. Clunking, as mentioned, is generally bearings. If it's from down behind the plenum, it's not very likely to be a cam or anything up top, but one of the crank bearings.

For a set of 235/45/18s, get those pressures up near 38PSi. 34PSi is way under inflated for those tyres, and will be causing the tyre to wander around. It's a great pressure for drag racing, (Not really, I'd be going for alower pressure when dragging) but it's absolutely shit for cornering.

I'd have to say the only way you'll achieve this, is dump in the RB30 bottom end. It absolutely SHITS all over the RB25 and RB26 in terms of Torque, and can be revved out just as hard when built. OR, you can bump up your CR. But the bumped CR will NEVER get you any where near the torque of a streeted, basically nothing done RB30...

Check what the other gear ratios are in the gearbox on the VL and the R31 first, calculate what the final end ratio would be and make sure with your gearbox, and your new chosen diff, you'll get the same final end ratio.

It's in the Crank Strength and Upgrading thread in the RB30 section...

4.3's here... 1/4 Throttle + Wet + Rolling at 80 KM/H = Needing two lanes of the road...

Why do you gap down to 0.8mm? What sort of boost are you running? When I was smashing out to 19PSi, and hitting 11:1 AFR, gapped at 1.1mm, I didn't have a single issue of mis fire. If you have decent coil packs, keep the gap out large at 1.1mm to get a better flame front. Will give you a better burn. Obviously if you're running huge boost (2 Bar Superstar) you may need to gap down, but from what I've seen, even 1.1mm with 25PSi and splitfires = perfectly fine... Just wondering if you're gapping down to 0.8 from force of habit from doing it with shit coil packs on the RB25?