MBS206

Mate, I did a ring landing, and valve, and the ONLY thing you could tell from it when it first let go, was that it had a SLIGHT miss to it at idle. That's it. Cat blocked, she'll still run fine. As to the cam timing, you can unplug it and it'll be fine. It only moves the cam a few degrees. Rule it out. Drop the exhaust, and run it on the dyno, is power back? No? Leave it off... Compression test motor, is comp down? No, move on. Pressure test whole inlet, is there a leak? No, Move on. Checked the cams? Haven't snapped one? Cars have seen to run but make no power with snapped cams before.

Block the gallery, and that's it. You'll want to convert to a non VVT cam though so you can put an adjustable cam gear on though.

The cops do do everything they can, but there's only so much they can do without a complaint being made against them... Back in the old days, if they thought they knew who had stolen it, they'd head around, haul them out the back of the station, and give em a kick up the arse until they actually admitted it, or were convinced that that suspect didn't (good enough reason to not get caught doing anything and become a suspect) These days, if they even questioned the person informally, they'd have there arses belted by a higher up management because the arse hole who stole your wallet thought he was getting unfairly treated because he got questioned. From what I last heard, the coppers were pretty darn sure they knew who had done the theft on my car, but they didn't have enough evidence to prove it. The only evidence they had, was the guys mobile phone, and the fact he has a history for doing it. But hey, he claims his phone was stolen and bam, he's home free... As to insurance, luckily for me, it was my old bomb, and not my Skyline, so only had third party property, but still managed to sell the wreck for more then I paid for it. Only thing was, it was a good ol car!

Thanks for the rims man! Good guy to deal with everyone!

Wing is sold... Sitting in my garage.

Things that affect cold start and running a lot is the temp sensor. Replace it anyway, it's only $60. Also clean out valves as suggested above.

If running a standard RB30 bottom end, I'd suggest spinning it to only about 7000RPM. 7500RPM max. The N1 turbos flow enough to make 320 odd AWKW on a 26, drop boost a few PSi, and with lower rev limit you'll make "less" power, but you should pull the same torque. hence, a less stressed engine.

Lee, think of it this way. Power (HP/KW) is = RPM, * Torque / Constant. Or in simple terms, RPM * Torque (We don't need to worry about the constant whilst now working numerically. Now, you make the same power from your RB26 to a RB30 right. But your RB26 is being revved to 8000 - 9000RPM. Most of us rev the RB30 to an ABSOLUTE, maximum 7500RPM, Mines only going to be revved to 6500RPM... Yet, I'll make the same power... What does this mean... I'm actually producing more torque, and therefore, will have a quicker car. People need to learn to give no shit for peak power. It's all about the torque curve. Torque curve from an RB30 RULES the RB26 Torque Curve.

You have an air leak. You've most likely broken the gasket either between plenum and AAC valve, or the TB and plenum, or you haven't reconnected a pipe properly. Listen VERY closely for air leaks in whilst it's running, and use your hand to feel for them too.

I've had a whole car stolen and written... That's when you really feel like shit. What made it worse, because I'd been up till about 1AM, and didn't hear the coppers at 3AM trying to ring the house phone/knock on door, they thought I'd done it to begin with. I the end, with a window smashed, and wallet grabbed, the coppers really aren't paying much attention, because hell, what do you want them to do? They could quite easily take your car for about 2 days, fingerprint the shit out of it, then have it turn up with no fingerprints because all the f**ker did was smash a window and grab your wallet, and probably kicked your panels, not put his greasy hands on it. And even in the 1 in 100th chance they DO get a print of the guys, they need to then have the one in one millino chance, his finger prints, are in the database. So shit, would you like them to keep your car for 2 days, where you can't use it, or fix, and it is even more of a hinderance, or would you like them to be blunt, and just take the details down, and then have them go back to watching TV? And why does it take people so long to learn the trick of DON'T LEAVE VALUABLES IN THE CAR! There are signs up everywhere in most car parks, and the police once or twice a year make public announcements on TV (Usually around November/December too...) not to do it... So why do people still do it?

Check your water temp sensor. If it's f**king out, it can cause major issues like this.. Could also be dodgy knock sensors.

Take it from me mate. If you're on a budget now, you need to slow the build, built it once, build it right. DO NOT shortcut, or skimp out on things. Buy the good brand name gear, and forge it right away. If you really want to do it cheap, go buy a stockpile of RB30 blocks, and don't worry about rebuilding or breaking them...

How high do you plan for the spacer to be?

Blown cooler pipe.

+1

You want decent sized mufflers thrown on. Mid muffler, at least a 5" body on it, with fibreglass packing. Rear muffler at least a 7" body, you only want a 3" out let on it though. Fibreglass packing again. You also want them as long as possible, for both. Don't let anyone tell you it won't fit. I have photos of mine all fitted up, and running, with ZERO ground clearance issues. And REALLY quiet, and high flowing. If you need help with getting the exhaust done, PM me. And a good high flow cat.

Hey man, Not good to hear that Bezerkly has now closed. Any chance though, you could post up what things are actually needed to make this fit exactly? From what I read on another thread, it's new engine mounts, notching the cross member, gearbox mounts, and a new clutch master, plus the electrics, piping, and custom exhaust etc... Anything else you can enlighten me on?

From what I've seen, R33 VS R32 manual, = same diff ratio. This is from multiplewebsites I've read this... Also, if you're revving an R33 manual to 6500RPM, and want to get it out to that same speed as what you'd normally be at at 7000RPM, you want a 4.1 diff.

Pioneer only does it when the radio is on.

If you're blowing fuses, you've f**ked some electrics up somewhere, and hence, why it won't start.

Toffy, th eR33 RB25DET runs a 4.363 not a 4.1

The link you posted is accurate, except it gives all of it's speeds in MPH, not KMH, so you need to convert.

I can fit a decent esky in the 33, so long as I don't have sub + amp in there. If I mount the amp properly, it'll fit. But won't with amp+ sub floating... That, and I also have a rear seat to fit shit in...

R33 manuals run a 4.363:1 final drive. I think it becomes "slower" if you're running a larger turbo, as if you punch it at 2000RPM, it say might take an extra second to get into your boost range... Hence, you're slower to get moving.

If you're pulling it down, and rebuilding, don't put stock gear back in. Put in good H beam rods, good set of bearings, and some forged pistons. Then if you really want to play it "safe" stick to the same rules as have been stated above, and you should easily get 10+ years from it.