MBS206

He wasn't enquiring about the -7 he was asking about the -9 being a direct replacement.

Pull RB25 out. Replace with an LS1. Leave LS1 standard, be happy with around 180RWKW or maybe a touch more...

Actually, all he stated in his first post, that him running a FMIC was legal, and running a panel filter was legal, and that he wanted to keep it on the legal DB side... All 3 of these things apply to NSW as well. He didn't state at all that he could only do one intake mod only...

Do some resistance checks on the Engine temp sensor. It's in the top radiator pipe. The one with 2 pins. Make sure it's plugged in, if it is, make sure the resistances are correct for the temperatures (You'll have to search for what the resistance should be)

Mine used to feel the same when I was running that sort of boost. Would just snap from 6000 - 7000RPM, reason it was doing it like it was, was because between 4 - 5K, torque was coming on strong, but 5 - 6K I dropped off in power, then over the 6 - 7K range I was picking up 30 - 40RWKW within about 100RPM (6 - 6.1K) and it'd pull it's hardest to redline.

R31, It'd be handy if we actually knew the person was from vic. Nothing in the post states location, and the only way we can assume he's in Vic, is being a Vic club member, and hey, they could have moved or anything since becoming a member. Maybe get the board admin to show everyones state at least...

I think the poster about losing boost wasn't referring to losing it out the exhaust, more so eluding to the fact the exhaust might be a large restriction causing a drop in flow, causing a loss of boost. As to a legal exhaust: You will want a 3" exhaust, with a 3" high flow cat, a 5" bodied mid muffler, with some decent length, and then you will want as large of a rear muffler as you can fit. I would also say to put the twin tips on the exhaust, and have them painted black. I run a 5" mid, and a 7" end muffler (Cannon style) except they're not stainless, and not all shiney, and the whole exhaust, when looking at it from the back any more then 2 metres away, and it looks invisible, matched with a nice and quiet exhaust note, no issues there with the plod. My mufflers are also 650 and 550mm long respectively. You want LENGTH AND DIAMETER for a good muffler. And yes, mine are both straight through and are custom built.

Dirt Garage: There's a VERY large difference between a company outsourcing something and getting it built to their standard, and a company going "Oh, I like the look of that product, lets buy it at an agreed price, rebadge it, and sell it for our price and claim it's ours" As to your question would Link allow it. Well hell yes, why wouldn't they? They send out this new "u-beaut" product, to another company, that HAS to offer support, and allows THEM to find all the bugs, and make them look like f**king fools for releasing "problematic" hardware. When you can cut say $50 of profit off each from selling it to Vi-Pec VS wholesaling, but you save $100 by doing so from not having to offer the service and help for it, you end up making $50 more profit... And when you're releasing a new design, this is a VERY big thing... In all, I'll be sticking to the Adaptronic ECU, whilst it may not offer the capability of an AFM, I know the guy who owns it, and if I want, I can walk through his workshop, whilst his boys are developing the new ECU. Only thing that gets out sourced is the bulk building of the boards, so their team can develop, and also run the service and help desk (Which, may I add, is top notch!) Oh, did I also mention, it's cheaper then the Vi-Pec, offers more features then the Vi-Pec, and is plug and play with the R33 (And R32 from memory) Skyline? Also, if it is a Link, like you're now basically saying it is, then your thread title is very mis leading, as it still isn't "Aussie Made" in the end, the profit goes back to New Zealand. PS: I believe Link do sell a plug in ECU for the Skyline that doesn't require any wire cutting... http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...san-plugin-ecus Oh, you also claimed this ECU was twice as fast as an Autronic I believe it was... Can you give us processing speeds of both to prove this of the processor alone, then, can you give me the code from both the Autronic, and the Link/Vi_Pec so we can see which code is more efficient? Big claim to be able to say it is twice as fast... Especially when you only claim it's twice as fast because it's a 32 bit processor... Means diddly squat...

Mate, in the blocks there is no difference from an "RB30DET" and an RB30ET and an RB30E. The RB30DET is a HYBRID motor. You can't buy one from the factory. Hence to get an RB30DET you need to put an RB20, RB25, or RB26 head on it. This RB30 block has no head, hence, it currently can't be an RB30DET.

It has to be from your intercooler pipes. You can't have a boost leak, from the exhaust side. It doesn't get boosted.

If the car is tuned, it's more likely you're touching into load cells that haven't been tuned, and hence, are lacking ignition timing, or have an abundance of extra fuel. (Or even the other way)

If your aftermarket ECU is running the AAC valve, leave it on. To get a car to idle up without one, means you have to fudge things with timing. To force a car to idle up, say if RPM drops to 600RPM, you throw ALOT of timing in, and it'll bump it up. If it's idling high, you reduce timing so it drops down. It's all in tuning the timing map, and fuel map to make it idle correctly. Things you will lose though, are like the idle up when you turn the steering wheel, or turn the AC on or lights on. Some ecus allow you to add or reduce ignition timing VS temperature, this is how they can idle up, when cold. But nothing else can be idled up. You can do this whether the ECU runs an AFM, or a MAP sensor. You just need to know how to make it do it. Last I heard, the Microtech can't control very many AAC valves. But if your ECU can, LEAVE IT ON THERE! It'll make life alot more simpler then "removing a few hoses"

Location? Picks of shell. Very interested in shell.

I'm just using the fitting that TUF_RX3 from here made, which is press fitting into the back of the head. Others drill and tap a fitting in.

The advice I've been given by most engine builders is not to restrict the oil getting up top. It's all in freeing up getting it back down to the sump. IE, you REALLY want a good drain setup to get it out of the head. Then, you're all sweet. The issue is only at high RPM, so who knows what it's doing when you're blocking an oil feed off and sticking to low RPMs. You might be starving the head of oil slightly.

Do a compression test, but put some oil down the bore of each piston just before you go to test it. If compression comes up higher then it was when dry, you have a dud piston/ring. If it stays low, valves/head is dud. Test each dry, then test "wet" (Oiled) This will pin point obttom end or head in comp issues. Did you have the head serviced or crack and pressure tested when you had it off?

Guilt Toy, can you post up some info on how you tune your car, like target AFRs, some advise on timing advance etc. I'll be tuning my skyline in the new year (25/30 with an alright sized turbo) and want to know how lean you take them on cruise (Say sitting on 100km/h in 5th etc) and what sort of timing you have dialled in.

PM Performance_Wise on these forums... He needs someone to do some testing of coil packs and it might help you out largely...

I'd be putting a brand new map in the car like suggested above and retune it...

Sorry, forgot that I'd read that already re comp test. As with the cas, generally the teeth being worn rears its head as a miss fire when ever you're cruising at a constant speed, or backed off... Wondering, it does it at the same revs in EVERY gear? Can you try disconnecting your knock sensors as well? I'm wondering if they're picking up noise from valve train at those revs... (This will only affect if your ECU actually does something if it detects knock)

When you check the car again. Pull the CAS off, and have a look down inside it at the little "teeth" that mesh it to the cam. See if they're worn, and allowing swap. Compression tested it?

Pics of whole car? Price, whole car?

I'd be going after either HICAS, or bushes, or find out which parts HAVEN"T been replaced...

Looks after market. One of the wires has an inline fuse in it... Trace the other two wires, see where they lead. I'm wondering if they go upto the ignition (one is likely an earth) I'm thinking it might be a turbo timer loom...

Once the car is warmed up, as you bring the revs up, does it slowly lean out, and then start miss firing in that range? Or does it get really rich and then start miss firing? I'm wondering if there's an issue in the tune. When did it start to occur, and what was the last thing you did to the car BEFORE it started misbehaving, and how long before it started miss behaving did you do it? I also looked at this thread, but don't think it'll help you http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rk-t215013.html