MBS206

Looks after market. One of the wires has an inline fuse in it... Trace the other two wires, see where they lead. I'm wondering if they go upto the ignition (one is likely an earth) I'm thinking it might be a turbo timer loom...

Once the car is warmed up, as you bring the revs up, does it slowly lean out, and then start miss firing in that range? Or does it get really rich and then start miss firing? I'm wondering if there's an issue in the tune. When did it start to occur, and what was the last thing you did to the car BEFORE it started misbehaving, and how long before it started miss behaving did you do it? I also looked at this thread, but don't think it'll help you http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rk-t215013.html

Flux capacitor... Bugger paying $550 for a new RB25 AFM when you can get the Z32 + loom plugs for like $200 - $300 if you look around. Then grab something like a PFC, or SAFC, and get it tuned. Then, it's all setup for future upgrades. Definitely sounds like a sus sensor though, whether it be AFM or not. Could be a bad TPS or CAS sensor or knock sensor also.

If the car miss fires, it will show lean. No matter really. If plugs foul. It miss fires. Excessive oxy left. If boost blows out spark. Miss fires, excessive oxy left. Ignition system fails. Miss fires. Excessive oxy left. No matter what, a miss fire will register lean. There WILL be excessive oxygen left.

I run a cat, brand new one actually, and still get the yellow stain...

When did you put the VN V6 coils in? These are known for failing, even new coils. Are you able to get the ECU to run on the factory ignitor with splitfire coil packs?

Mate, I don't live any where near my mummy to run to... Also, the comment was because not only you, but about 50 other threads in the last 2 weeks have had other people saying it. I'm not playing the victim, I'm laughing at the fact so many people are missing common sense around here. Hell, someone else even said they were going to say the same thing as what I did. So HTFU, and move on with life mate, instead of turning into a keyboard warrior attempting to be the toughest little shit out there. Edit: loving how you also have to keep relying on personal insults. Have nothing else to be able to say except "you're this", "you're that" and "I'm smarter then you as you're just a dumb arse"? Nothing constructive? No counter technical argument? If not, have a nice day and stop spamming this guy's thread.

PS, I don't believe you... And you're the one getting all worked up, after someone said to check something, which you said not to, because you had the same problem, and then I said again, that he should check it, because you've already had the problem... Do you see where I'm going with your half witted level of thinking. Any way, I'm not going to argue with you any more. You're obviously a moron, and I'm not going to let you drag me down to your level, you'll just beat me with experience... Have a good day.

Mate, just because yours didn't go swimming in water through all 6, doesn't mean his couldn't have. You're a fool, there's no where for the water to drain to once it's in there, other then once it fills up, and flowing in to the other coil pack areas. And maybe I should "shut my farkn mouth", but have you thought about learning to 'speel' or use the English language appropriately? You sir, are a fool, and a keyboard warrior. I have provided more input then what you have, especially with your "It can't be the problem you just said because I had the exact same problem just not as severe" (PS, have you cottoned on to that part yet?)

I bought, and already paid for.

Dropping another RB20 in, VS picking up an RB25... Will be a bit more for the RB25, BUT you'll see MAJOR amounts more torque. Much better engine all around.

If you already have the manifold, you WILL need to find out what flange is on the manifold, and then buy a turbo that uses that flange.

Don't count. Line the exhaust cam gear up on its mark. Line the inlet cam gear up on its mark. Line the crank up on its mark. Put timing belt on. Turn crank over twice. Check marks. If all marks still line up where they were originally, well done, job complete. If they do not. Take timing belt off re align everything to their marks, start again putting belt on until after two turns of the crank, all of the timing marks line up. This is the proper way to do them.

You'll see a much better gain by bolting up the whole RB25. What is said above is correct also, water galleries do not line up. The RB20 head flows no where near as much as the RB25 head. So it would be a huge backward step to do to the RB25 bottom end. Considering you can grab a cheap RB25DET and drop the whole thing in, and your old turbo setup etc will bolt to it (If you're using a stock turbo, use the RB25DET turbo!)

Remove the boost controller completely and test. Does boost hold stable? Is the waste gate flap hitting the dump?

So you're using a Serial RS232 to USB convertor? Is the driver for the converter installed? Which model converter are you using? Have you googled to see if it's a common problem using that ECU with that converter?

It should ALL be an in out job. Shouldn't need to actually modify anything.

And when you need a shit load of grunt to come up, you just have to squeeze... Not go fumbling for some stupid switch/button... My R33 used to have a dual stage, 6PSi, and 10PSi... It bugged me if I needed power in a quick instance to duck through a gap, as you had to fumble for the switch, by then, the gap was gone. In the end I always drove on 10PSi, after that I swapped to a boost controller that only had one boost setting...

So his can't be an issue because maybe 6 coils are now swimming in water? Do people around here not have common sense? What you've just said is: I had my car in the same condition, and it can't be what you've said, because I had happen what you said, just not quite so severe... Smart...

I'd be mainly looking around the coil packs. Pull the coil pack cover off, and see if any water is sitting down under there. It may have been in the rain before, but depending on how hard it's raining, the motor may have been hot enough, with not enough water coming in previously to cause issues, as it'd just boil the water off. The other night, may have just been way too much water, and it's flooded the top of the motor. But I'd be mainly looking at the coil packs, and their connections.

1992: The race was stopped on Lap 145 because of numerous crashes in the heavily rain-soaked circuit, including the car of the leader on Lap 144. The race was wound back to the previous completed lap 144 as per the usual red flag rule, however in doing so it was discovered that some of the vehicles that had crashed during the storm-burst had crashed prior to the race leader completing the 144th lap. In this rare instance the race was wound back an additional lap so all involved vehicles could be classified as finishers. Now... Who won the 1992 Bathurst and in what car? Shit... Couldn't they handle an AWD car in the wet or something? As to the introduction of the chase... "The Chase", a large three-corner chicane, added in 1987 to the straight to comply with the FIA's regulations regarding length of straights was dedicated to Burgmann with a plaque embedded in the concrete barriers. It was not added because of the death, it was to bring the track to FIA standards, but was dedicated to Mike Burgmann, as he died there the year earlier.

Is it just me, or are you guys missing the REAL basics? You have a vented bonnet, it was pissing down rain. You've filled something electrical in the engine bay, most likely your coil packs, with water and they've stopped working. You're going to have to disconnect everything electrical and spray CO contact cleaner in there, then put it all back together. Bitch of a job, but it's the only way, unless you wait about 10 days for the water to evaporate.

The procams with 10+ mm of lift, are for solid lifters. The ones with < 10mm lift are for hydraulic.

Any water in the oil? Lots of steam out the exhaust (more then normal)? Only other way to really check is to pull the head off, which means you replace the head gasket if blown or not.

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages. If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off. When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking. Check your alternator out, and all connections.