MBS206

Have you touched the fuel pump at all recently? Had a car here that had those EXACT same symptoms just a week or two ago... Fuel pump had nearly 100% died. New pump, fixt. Not saying this is your problem, but have you touched the fuel pump recently? If so, go look there...

Good condition ash tray?

I give you $10...

You might find, if you advertise the car in the CAR FOR SALE section, people might look at it... YOU'RE ADVERTISING IN THE PARTS SECTION!!!

Wing from a series 1 or 2?

Rear wing?

In the R33, the Suspension aftermarket wise, is the same. Stock for stock, the rear end, is the same. The front end though, the GTS4 runs a slightly stiffer front shock, to take the extra weight of the AWD system. I WAS running GTS4 front springs in my GTS-t, made it less wanting to swing the tail out, and was slightly more understeery... Actually made it nice to drive. Not sure on mounts in other R3* models though... Just know springs are defo interchangeable, and whole shocks 33 - 33...

Dirt: Have you looked at the Adaptronic? The guy who runs that company, didn't just "get someone to make a board to specification" he did it all himself. Now he has 2 (might be 3 now) guys working for him as well, building another bigger better board. At a cheaper price then the ViPEC, it runs dual maps (Changeable at flick of a switch) Launch Control, Traction Control, Flat shift, all those nice nifty little features you're looking for, at an even lower price then the ViPEC. The only issue you'd have on the GTR, is it isn't plug in, it's wire in, but for R33 GTS-t, it is a plug in affair. Things like auto tune, the ability to register knock AND take action on it, it can give an indication when tuning as to if more timing will increase torque or not. Cold start tuning, boost control. Wondering why you never bothered to try it? Does the guy who runs ViPEC understand the code behind how it runs, or did he pay someone else for that as well? I, and everyone else who's dealt with Adaptronic, to have the best technical support around, with the guys know the board, the sensor setup, and how the code works to sort out issues. Just wondering if you'd tried them before or not?

Hey Adam If you're running the factory computer, it is EXTREMELY beneficial to continue to run a plumb back BOV, which is either the factory GTS-t one, or the factory GTR BOV. Reason. If you run flutterz, you get air that does flow back past the AFM the wrong way, and the computer believes there is air going INTO the motor (When in fact, the AFM is being triggered by air flowing the wrong way) Hence, computer will dump in a HEAP of fuel, way way way way way more fuel then is needed. And generally, stall. If you run an atmospheric BOV, the air that has already been "counted" by the AFM (And hence computer) is being dumped outside, and hence, the computer will put in way more fuel then is needed (But not as much as what the flutterz will) And on rare occasions, stall. Now, both of these setups are causing very high counts of CO emissions, way more then is acceptable, and hence, a breach of emissions, and also poor drive-ability. For this reason, most people will recommend running the factory BOV, or GTR one, but this isn't for anything to do with "keeping the turbo in one piece" other wise, they'd also recommend running atmospheric BOV, as they also stop the "flutterz". Now, throw on a PFC (Or any AFM setup tuneable ECU), and you can tune around the stalling issues, and most of the overfuel issue (but not all of it really). Chuck on a MAP sensor reading tuneable ECU, and you can run any setup of BOV or no BOV you want, and have zero running or emissions issues. The big thing is though, SAU seems to have a cult following for AFM setup ECUs (Which baffles me HUGELY, when it costs you ~$300 each time you max out your AFM, and a MAP setup does just as good of a job) Enough about that, my main advice to Hannibal is DON'T do it... Unsure how long you've owned your car for mate, but check out I think it's Panda's thread, P plater, ill-experienced, bent car, and he wasn't even using the power of the NA. Seriously, stick to the NA, throw some suspension work at it, and learn to drive it around a bend properly, and with a few subtle NA mods, you'll be carving up most of the turbo boys around a race track (Except the main straight) due to the fact you're relying on turning in, and getting out of the corner quickly, where as, most of them are struggling in corners due to power... Basically, learn to drive the car, and turbo it once you can do so legally.

Adam: A turbo is a turbo is it not? So then, it would not matter what vehicle it was placed on, as to whether it wants a BOV, would it not? Secondly, I took advice from a few people, including someone who purely, and solely plays with turbos all day long. Thirdly, look at the fin setup on a turbo, it's uni directional, blow air the wrong way through it, it applies ZERO force on the turbo. Fourthly, that was advice for Hannibal, he DOESN'T require a BOV. Fifthly, not everyone on here claims you need a BOV Sixthly, the only written evidence anyone can ever find, bar heresay on the fact you "need" a BOV, is written on BOV manuafacturers websites... Seems like sales propaganda to me. Seventhly, Sorry Eug, I'm generally very short and blunt, other wise people start trying to misconstrue things. Eighthly, look at when the BOV was introduced, and WHY... It was ONLY for emmisions... Pretty suss to me... I never knew blown turbos came under the EPA durisdiction... Ninthly, Again, Sorry Eug. Hannibal, you don't require a BOV, but whilst on your P's, if you have to have a turbo, run the factory BOV, with the factory air box and snorkel, the BOV is then inaudible, as is the spool up of the turbo. BUT, if I came across you some where and you bragged to me about being on your P's and driving a turbo illegally, I'd smack you so damn hard in the back of the head to try and knock some sense into you. Driving a prohibited car, leaves you unregistered, uninsured, and unlicenced... If you hit my car... God help you, I will have my insurance company going after you for every penny you have. It is pure IDIOCY to be driving a prohibited car, not just because you might get a fine, but because so many of the things that are put in place to help others involved in a crash (And you) are ripped out from under neath you. So the easiest, and the best thing you should do, is not turbo your car, and do the suspension side of things. Once off your P's look back into turboing it. Cheers Boys!

Stock RB20 ECU should be able to run the RB25/30 setup so long as you've placed all of the RB20 sensors on to the motor. CAS should be okay. Correct injectors? Correct AFM? Correct knock sensor? Correct TPS?

Paul, not sure how the PFC does it, but I know the factory computer on the R33 GTS-t runs the VCT OFF at RPMS BELOW 1050RPM, so it's on above 1050RPM, UNTIL, it hits above 4750 from memory it is, where it switches off again. It actually sits and idles with VCT off, should come on when revs go higher then 1050... Hence, if it's hunting, it's reasonable to expect VCT should kick on and off if RPM is going above and below 1050RPM, UNLESS the PFC doesn't follow the factory computer setup.

Obviously you've never been pulled over by more then one officer at a time...

You say you have a PFC When did it go in? Have you done an idle learn?

Hoags: Speak to Terry, and if you can, attempt to get the HOD test done.

Okay, SOOOO much wrong in what you've posted there... Yes, the sound is the air being chopped as it flows backwards through the turbo. NO, the turbo does NOT slow down from the air going backwards through it. It slows down as most people run the wastegate source off the intercooler piping, which, when shifting, is still seeing MASSIVE amounts of air pressure, so the wastegate stays open, and there's SFA air keeping the turbo going on the exhaust side. Mix with that a huge resistance, and the turbo slows,but now because of air going backwards through it. If it were so bad for turbo life, would nissan release the CA18DET without a BOV from the factory? Would Porsche run the GT3 especially in races without a BOV? Nope, they wouldn't. The BOV was introduced for emmisions reasons, on an AFM car you need it there for emmisions, and to stop the car stalling, unless you run an aftermarket ECU and can tune around this issue. I run a TD07 with a T04R comp wheel, and T66 exhaust wheel, ZERO lag between gear changes, and I run no BOV, why? My wastegate pressure source comes off the manifold, and helps keep the turbo spooled on gear changes AND my intake pipes are already pressurised as I re-open the throttle to slam air into the motor quickly and produce a shit load of exhaust gas to provide to the turbo.

Mate, not kicking you whilst you're down. Trying to make you realise you're not a gun driver. I've got over 4 years driving experience, and I'm still learning. I've also got experience at skid pans and the likes, I've been shown in controlled conditions how cars react differently (And as a P plater driving a RWD, you might think, more throttle = over steer, but doing such things as the skid pan, you'll quickly learn it doesn't) Hell, I've made mistakes, I've completely trashed a twin turbo Supra by hitting a corner too quickly, I still cop shit for it now, nearly 15 - 16 months later. Get used to it mate. You f**ked up, and what makes it worse, you're claiming you're a "good skilled driver" hell, I don't think I can find a single P plater on the road that is as good or skilled as they think... I can chuck my ute around in corners harder and faster then what P platers I've ended up racing through the twisties can in a JZA80, R32, and R33 Skyline, and Sprinters... And hell, I wouldn't come near to claiming I'm a good skilled driver, but I could out perform all of these cars, in a much lesser vehicle... Yet each of those drivers thought they were the awesome... I'm trying to get you to learn. You need to firstly learn to ALWAYS pay attention whilst driving, secondly, if you're on a street you don't know, and especially if it has turns, slow down more then normal. I've got an R33, and I can turn some VERY tight turns at 40 - 50KM/h... Like, left hand 90 degree bends are easy at that speed... and I'm running standard suspension... And I don't slide out in the front... So I'd have to ask... How'd you manage to loose it, if you were doing the speed limit, and are a skilled driver? Or is it simply, over confidence, and this is the start of a learning curve? I've been in your shoes once mate, I know how it feels, but hell, at least you can just replace a few parts and get back out there... I smashed the whole front end in to the point I could change engine parts without opening the bonnet... Learn from it please, and learn quickly... No one is invincible, nor are they god behind the wheel!

You sound arrogant... Don't worry, so does nearly every single P-Plater and half the licenced drivers out there... You're a pretty skilled driver, but you weren't paying attention. Too quick into a corner. Hit kerb. Yep, pretty skilled there. 1) Skilled drivers pay attention. 2) Skilled drivers don't go into corners too quick 3) Skilled drivers don't hit things normally. 4) Skilled drivers don't start with "Not to sound arrogant, but..." You're a P-Plater mate, you still don't know the first thing about driving really except how to put it into gear, stop start, kinda turn, and change lanes.., Even then, half the P platers out there (And fully licenced drivers) can't do those things! Not to give you too much of a bashing, but you have A LOT to learn, and hopefully, you do learn from this accident (Unfortunately again, most P Platers don't, they just think themselves invincible)

WIdebands also generally last less time then a narrow band.

The car is P-Plate friendly in Victoria, where the car is currently located. Obviously each state is different. Hence, the car is Vic P-Plate friendly. Not NSW P-Plate friendly. Nice car, if this came up around 3 months later (Jan/Feb next year) I'd take a serious look at it. Unless you want to consider an R33 2 Door with a 25/30 in it plus cash this way.

I've often thought of doing the exact same thing... Or at least making an "engine" cover up that spanned out across the engine bay... Couldn't do shit then...

Wrong country...But crocodile Dundee should have been on the scene...

Please explain how "flutterz" does fuly sik damagez to the turbo? Turbos are designed to flow uni directionally, IE, no matter how much air you force backwards through a turbo, it won't move, it'll sit still. Force air the other way, and it'll spin. So really, flutterz can't even slow the turbo down... What does slow it down is the fact the waste gate stays open the whole gear shift IF you don't run the pressure source off the manifold... I run a T04R on my R33, and have ZERO lag or anything between gearshifts, and I have NO BOV, purely because I run my pressure source off my manifold.

Sometimes you get to a point you're not actually forcing more air in to create more pressure, you're just heating the air up and creating more pressure... Hence, you're running out of flow, it'll still boost higher, but it's just doing that by heating the air up only, not heating it AND forcing more air in...

Concur