MBS206

Because he's using a different product, designed different, works different. Can create a problem.

The first thing you need to do, is validate if you have a problem of overheating, or something else going on. Do some data logs. What is the whole spec of the car, and don't just say "bigger radiator", what brand, size, etc? What FMIC, what's done to the motor?

Put up photos of the crimps you're planning to use. Let us critique them 😛 But seriously post them up before you use them

The pics refuse to load for me, even on a decent connection, Chrome was just shitting the bed. Duncan to resize, open them in mspaint, hit CTRL + W enter 30% as the value, and then save as a new file and upload that. Especially if they're like a 3000x3000 pixel image! 😮 On the topic of Autos, in the Bathurst 6 hour, there was another auto, that's been there a few times. The Levitt Motorsports AMG C63. He's killed autos before too for various reasons. Also when the engine does things like thinking it's overheating, they'll often do weird things like turn off sport mode/manual mode and put it back to boring auto mode and turn power down etc. Collision systems can do weird shit, especially things like TCS if you get a steering angle sensor out of alignment etc. Rip the ECU out, put a carb on, save all your problems

So you THINK it's overheating, and are only GUESSING it is, because you THINK the ECU is hitting a heat cut? Do you have any datalogs to prove this? Is the temperature gauge even moving? Other than emotions and assumptions, what is telling you it's overheating? What ECU do you even have?

This is the entire issue. The stud should have a ringland on it, such that the stud metal, is also the same piece as attached to the ringland. Think of it this way, take an actual bolt, turn it upside down. The head of the bolt, is the ringland, and it is all part of the stud, so you put your ring crimp over it, a washer, and bolt it down. Because you've got a stud with not metal landing, all of your real electrical connection, is through the threads in your nut to stud. Add to that, your nut is a nylock, so it isn't even necessarily all metal to metal contact. But on a 6mm stud, your thread depth is probably 0.5mm probably a 1mm pitch, and being about 4mm of nut height. That all equates to f**k all quality contact area. Not to mention, all the other joints in that area adding tiny resistances which all add up to bad heat! You're going wire to crimp, crimp to washer, washer to nut, nut to stud, stud to nut, nut to washer, washer to crimp, crimp to wire. 8 joints in a small area, each with a small resistance. If each joint adds 0.01ohm, that's 0.08ohm (basically immeasurable on most digital multimeters, you need a 4 wire measurement). At 25amp, 0.08ohm is giving you a 2V drop. 2V, at 25amp, is 50watts of power. Where is all that power going? Heat. You can now get someone else to go do the mafs on your stud and specific heat, and you'll start to realise why shits melting. Even if you say I've way overestimated the resistance by a factor of 10, a 5w power input constantly as heat, is pretty high too and that's on 0.008ohms! Get a good stud kit, that has a metal landing. Get good quality crimp with plenty of metal in the ring. PS those JayCar ring terminals have the thinnest little ring. That area that GTSBoy indicates is one of the more meaty areas of the ring terminal!

Disconnecting a coilpack/injector isn't 100% on identifying anything other than the suspect cylinder. If doing it you note one in particular makes no difference at all, you've got a total miss on that cylinder, it could still be for numerous reasons. If you do it, and one cylinder affects the idle less than all the others, now you t least have a suspect cylinder. I'd be doing a compression check on all cylinders first up. If they're out of spec, do a leak down on it too. Secondly, grab a video of this idle and stick it up here.

I don't know of anything specialist about the Stagea and pulling it's CVs, but the ones I've worked on, are all damn easy. Nothing "hard" at all, not even anything really technical or needing any crazy knowledge or precision. Have a Google as you straight up might be able to buy decent replacement CVs/axles for the Stagea.

I didn't realise you used to work at a place that does tuning! I know while I'm putting the Subaru back together it'll need a remap, but I'm pondering how easy it'd be to do logging at a track day. I've got an Innovative LM-1, and am pondering if I get a new O2 for it, or what a decent Wideband (standalone) sensor and controller is worth that I can log (And either ECUFlash or ECUEdit might support). I was searching for hiring a dyno for DIY tuning but looks like only 2WD dynos can be hired at the moment and I need 4WD

@robbo_rb180 do you tune your cars yourself or do you send them to someone? If you do it yourself, do you hire a dyno, or tune it after logging it at the track? Meaning like touch ups when you tweak or modify something a bit

I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice! Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?

It's not even really flywheel power. They might assume it and state a flywheel power, but really, hub dynos are measuring it at the hub. Reality of hub vs roller, is the change in inertia, as wheel is gone, and as you said, removing a slip from tyre to roller. Anyone measuring power at the wheel hub, can not claim flywheel power, as we don't know what the losses are in the drive line, especially on cars that aren't brand new.

Be happy it wasn't old auto gearbox fluid. That shit, is disgusting!

ShockWorks actually explain it really really well. It had f**k all body handling capability. And they took like 100mm of travel to build up the dampening you need on a fast action. So it means hitting a huge bump in the road like a pot hole, the shock is doing basically until you've already fallen in. So basically, on a big hard bump, it does absolutely f**k all for a few inches, and then slaps you in the back with a sledge hammer. Whereas for good control, and to absorb the bumps rather than being stupidly bumpy / bouncy, you want the really quick acting shocks so that they're able to control the spring immediately. Basically, MaxSpeeding, terrible for track work, and useless on the road, especially if you have lots of bumpy roads!!!

After having a look at dyno testing ShockWorks did, going to the Cusco, there would be an epic amounts of difference, especially daily driving a car vs the MaxSpeedingRods coil overs. From a bunch tested in the below video, ShockWorks found that even a 20 year old Cusco coilover still outperformed all the others tested, and also showed how epically shit the MaxSpeedingRods coil overs are! https://youtu.be/smNWdkv2i7U?feature=shared

I hear two turbos will help with that...

New race car?

I definitely get the low power, sporty car to drive to smash gears but not be doing eleventy million miles an hour! It makes all the normal drives fun! Rev match tune sounds like the funs! I didn't know the NC had a DBW throttle! As for me, still have the Skyline, it still has the Barra in it. It's been pushed to the side of the workshop at the moment. Pretty much waiting on me finishing the wiring, and dropping new fuel lines in. Got myself an ACDC Tig end of last year so been teaching myself TIG welding to build a few things for the Skyline. The missus wrote off her GTB liberty at the end of last year, and got it back on salvage rights stupid cheap. It's also still registered, so will mean easier for me to take to the track already done most of the panel damage, just playing "clear the workshop" to make space to pull the motor and box out, fix some oil leaks, replace the clutch, and replace a few minor broken things. Also got a Lathe at the start of the year, which is adding to the annoyance of no space, which is another reason I'm trying to build things to get more space, to get the Lathe back in a final home for it. It's a BIG lathe, can turn a 355mm diameter, and 1metre between centres... Got it at a steal! So between it and the TIG and old MIG welder, I'll be fabbing some fun little shit up But we've had a lot of shit stuff happening at home, so it's slow going getting things done. But one step at a time!

Unfortunately this new build series will come a car too late for you Mark... However, he does do a wicked MX5 build already you can also check out...

Ha ha, sorry dose, I wasn't meaning to argue the point on "it'll do f**k all". I was only shining a bit of a light in the flawed logic you used with it mate. I 100% agree that there is zero point changing stock manifold with a stock turbo, unless the manifold is f**ked. And only reason I'd ponder aftermarket manifold on a stock turbo would be that I'm too scared too look at the potential ludicrous prices people are asking for a stock manifold! Ha ha ha

Shhh... Muricans don't understand the idea of metric so can't find half the stuff we have for modifying JDM cars 😛

Your claim of "same turbo, same boost, same timing" is why I commented on it. You can't change how the exhaust flows, not alter the ignition or fuel map, and instantly say one is worse than the other, as one is likely now out of tune to the other. While turbo lag isnt great, it's also not the whole picture. Nor would I say the factory manifold is the best for fluid dynamics. That and most GOOD aftermarket manifolds additionally aren't aimed at stock/small sized turbos, nor do most of the companies building them have a Great idea on fluid dynamics, they just understand and build to the same basic principles. Those aftermarket manufacturers also don't have epically huge budgets to go doing shit tonnes of R&D to get the best performing manifold.

Trail braking done right, should have the rear unsettled, such that you're actually turning the car by a noticeable amount WITH the brakes, and hence noticeably less steering input.

No you don't. Just no more driving in the wet, and clean your window manually before you drive

I'm not sure if they tick your boxes, but Haltech would be my pick. I'm an Adaptronic guy from way back, and Haltech acquired Adaptronic to basically get Andy, AND his IP on how he does things like fuel modelling etc.