MBS206

Id be more than happy to sign up!!! Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage? I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great... I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight. PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade! So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon. Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it. If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out. It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil. My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings. You know what that means? Time to send it!!!

Ive been digging pretty harshly on oil info tonight. Seems like you're mostly right, except they do have some info that in the higher temps (like SEQ), I should push more to SAE30, but otherwise, meh. Also, felt the oil, it doesn't feel very oily any more... It also had a light smell of fuel... As for starting, well, I've already abandoned the pull start, as it failed. Cord rotted, and metal throwout things rusted up and jammed. So now I use a battery drill and a socket... Electric start FTW! Also sharpened the blade while I was at it tonight. She was very dull... Mark, for blades, make your own. They're just mild steel. I made mine to be a high lift blade. It really throws the grass in the catcher. Might have been a little too high on the lift though... It was enough that it started to bend the blade tips down towards the earth... Ha ha ha I may have put some epic angle and size on my wings...

Alright guys, this thread really got to me, so I thought I'd do the best thing I can, and change the mowers oil. So here is a photo of me draining it. To be totally honest, I see nothing wrong here, and think there's easily another 5 years in this oils life. But, now I've hit my next conundrum, some twit drained the oil, without having bought any new oil... Should I splurge and use olive oil, or will canola oil do? On a serious note, I'm undecided if I REALLY need to buy 4 stroke mower oil, but some claim normal motor oil doesn't have extra zinc or some shit in it. Also, mower has started getting blow by, it isn't pumping oil out the breather, but it is pumping out a lot of exhaust gas... Which is then making the mower hunt a lot... I'm think atmospheric vent, with a filter... PS, this is a mower I was given years ago, have had to rebuild the carb, build my own blades for it, fix up valve clearances, and then make it really sing way above any rpm it wants while I punish it in the back easement, so no, I'm not spending anything more than I need to. The thought of buying an air filter is bad enough to me and I'm searching for one I think I had on a catch can... So while this mower is a cheapo, flogged to death, revived, flogged again, revived, flogged again, and now being turned into a zombie, does any one know if I'll seriously shorten it's life if I use something like Nulon X-Pro 5w-30, or HPR 5 5w-40 instead of spending stupid money to buy SAE30 4 stroke lawn mower oil? (And yes, if I drank alcohol I'd happily pee in the fuel tank instead of putting fuel in it... At this stage I'm siphoning year old 98 fuel from the Subaru each time I need to refill the jerry... ) So... Input?

"Won't change runability"? It seems you're planning a major part swap without retuning...

@Duncan can you put the Link in, and measure all the power input voltages with a multimeter. Specifically looking for one that is low. Then put the other ECU in that it runs on, and measure those voltages again with a multimeter? If all of your voltages read normal on both ECUs, but the link is still reading low internally, your issue IS the LINK. If the voltages drop low on the multimeter while the Link is plugged in, but not other ECU, then the issue COULD be wiring in the car, or it COULD be the ECU. To rule out wiring, work out how with an ECU removed, you can trigger all the necessary relays, and then measure resistance from the pin that is reading low at the ECU, to the batteries positive power. I have a sneaking suspicion your issue is the link, it's not reading the voltage properly, possibly a dry joint, or a Cap dieing, and because voltage is low, it's likely attempting to compensate on fuelling and the engine won't run.

I don't think that kit is what you want, as they list it as heater hoses, not vacuum / oil hoses. The lines you're talking about are breather hoses.

Just to double confirm Duncan, the ~9V on that wire, you see that with a multimeter too, but when PFC is plugged in, your multi reads 12V? I'm guessing a component in the link on its way, likely a capacitor. I'm keen on Link response, and then internal photos if they say jump. With our powers combined, I'm sure we can get all the electrical smoke out

I think how I see it, something like MX5 more fun for things like a mountain cruise, or through roundabouts. But daily driving around, commodore, just to listen to the V8 rumble, big auto, so lazy drive. Also good if you like to be quicker than the P Platers at the traffic lights without trying Turbo cars and smaller engines not as easy, as you need to ring them out harder especially off the mark if you want to beat them. But MX5 would be more fun on a winding road like Mac Pass/Natio park, as you can push the motor harder and row through the gears without hitting a billion miles an hour.

Sounds like the reg is fubar, or, lines are backwards. You should be able to keep reg and fuel rail in the system and get fuel to return to the tank.

So on the power input to the link, from the ECCS relay, it is showing only 9.5v? But on the PFC, it gets full voltage (measured by the same multimeter? If that is the case, it sounds like you've got a bit of an internal short starting to occur (hasn't gone to full short yeah) and likely you're seeing a decent current draw too with the Link on. Is the Link under warranty? I'll be intrigued to hear what they say, especially if not under warranty. Then I want to see inside it if Link don't have an economical/efficient approach to repair it for you!

You guys change your oil? And spend more than what the home brand oil is worth?! 😮 Actually, that reminds me, mower needs an oil change, the oil has gotten a bit thick and gunky. I don't think it's happy pushing an extra 1000rpm constantly...

Commodore needs a manual box, and then to made into a convertible. Old man's comfortable MX5 then! Also, $50 and some pocket lint for the Commodore?

You can give the commodore to me.

You forgot the timing too...

Or add timing until it sounds a bit rattly, then pull timing... Really quickly!

Don't compression test. If it's running fine, don't look for problems, just enjoy!

I am going to vote, please keep the motorsport builds separate, from the general builds. I look at each, at different times, for different wants. And it makes a lot of sense to keep it separate, and also helps you to understand who's building a wild street car, vs who's building a great race car, without needing to memorise every single persons build thread and objectives.

Why does everyone film these days in psychopath mode and lose 60% of the screen? And I never realised until now you're in Bris! For some reason I thought Canada, I must have been mixxing this up with another build thread. I'll need to keep my eyes peeled to play spotto now!

If I'm paying, it'd be the most unreliable, janked together setup you've seen. I can do drive in, drive out. But don't expect it till 2038 at the earliest... And thats being optimistic...

Rob, Updates on build mate? Do I need to drive round your way and prod you with a stick, or is work just too busy at the moment? I'm happy to write you a resignation letter if work is getting in the way of building your own car

LS1 swap it. Keep it NA...

Many possibilities, like cam gears coming free of the cam shaft and spinning.

Is the laptop the problem, or something youre plugging into it killing it?

I'm definitely not in my right mind, so take this with a grain of salt... All of what you've shown won't/can't cause low/no oil pressure. I'd find what happened to the oil pressure, check the bearings, fix the oil pressure and send it after a re-tune. Then again, I don't like spending stupid money on cars these days if I can avoid it. So I'm definitely in the mad category.

Put the car in second gear instead of 1st and try again. Lots of cars, especially cable drive when in first are very touchy/jerky when you first touch the throttle. The jerkyness can also cause your foot to move ever so slightly, and on a cable setup, can be varying the throttle very minutely, but that's a large change in air flow for low speed. 2nd gear takes a lot of the 'jerk' away. If second gear doesn't make it drive able, you need to sort of the "ghost cam" tune around idle. First test would be removed it entirely and see if that eliminates the issue.