MBS206

And that's the advantage of the 3L and a big turbo... Hit the throttle, while waiting for boost, you have torque, when it comes on boost... GONE!!!

Hey man, PM'd you a few days ago, haven't gotten a response. Genuine interest on the motor.

Hydro, by the English dictionary, refers solely, to water. Hydraulic, refers to fluid, oil, water, what ever, just as a fluid. Hence, when the original question was "Is my car hydro locked" the answer is, NO. There is no water in the cylinder, to HYDRO lock it. There may be some other fluid, Hydraulic locking it, by the car is not HYDRO locked... It was a bit of a tongue in cheek remark using the play on words to get people to think, you sir, seemed to have taken it quite too seriously. Oh, as to background, mechx engineering, doing lots of work with Computers and eletrical/electronics in industry... You'll find crimps are alot worse at making good connections then a solidly solidered joint.

Mine was a bucket of shit and annoying to drive daily, purely as it wasn't tuned... It loved to foul up plugs and what not... Used to idle at 10:1 AFR. But once even the idle got tuned back at 15:1, it became hell nicer to drive on the street. Once away from idle, apart from the over fuelling, it was really good and easy to live with, much better then the RB25DET

That one is deisgned for a 2" exhaust (Hence 2" inlet) It's sad though that some people believe the tip on the last muffler HAS to be like 5 times larger then the inlet... My 3" outlet, on a black 7" round bodied muffler looks stealth as cause you can barely see it!

Hydro VS Hydraulic... I see mechanics can be pretty thick some times hey? Back OT: HOW did you do the joins on the AFM? Did you just do some nice "twist and tape" or did you properly solder them and heat shrink them? I'd also be pulling all of the inlet piping off that you've touched, and put it all back on. THEN, check it's all tight.

So from that, as long as you can clear ground height, and noise, then it's legal as far as I can read from that.

Just thought I'd add too... Even if it's full of fuel, it's not hydrolocked... Hydro, means water...

A starter motor is designed to draw high current, it'll draw huge current if it can't turn the motor, as the starter initially acts as a short circuit, and if it doesn't start turning, then it doesn't build it's own resistance, hence, you've got a short circuit and huge current draw, but the starter is a-okay...

They see me rollin... They hatin... :D

Throw it on the charger all after noon, and all night, try start her up tomorrow around lunch time. Sounds like a low battery issue... Maybe the alternator is on it's way out? And when you say it runs really rich, how badly do you mean? Constantly blowing black smoke etc? What's your fuel economy like?

Don't have the results of it in a setup like that, but with said mufflers, it has been trialled and came in under 90dba. As to the ride height, if running the twin pipes, it would fit rather easily, as long as you don't have a slammed car and you'd be happy with what is normally a single 3" outlet (The dual pipes for a 3.5" need to be around 2.5" each *6.3cm* so probably bordering on, if not breaking the ride height). Single 3" you'd run a 2.25" pipe, which should nicely clear the ride height, or you can use oval pipe instead... As to Vic Vs NSW, I can't tell what state the original poster is in, and as such, makes it very hard to be able to work out what laws he needs to abide by.

Is the motor turning over slightly slowly with the spark plugs out, or more so, is it turning over at about the same rate as when it normally does when spark plugs are in? With no spark plugs in, the car should crank over very quickly (Alot quicker then when plugs are in) it sounds like you have a flat battery. Try to jump start the car from another car that is running.

I find it tame because ya'll a bunch of girls... And why is this in General Automotive Discussion? Like, WTF? Wrong section? Also.. Search... I avoid a lot of the threads in Forced Induction area, and go straight to the RB30DET area, it's more tech then the out right Forced Induction I find... Less "I did all of this shit like changing my BOV, now my car stalls, but I want the flutterz, make the stalling stop without changing BOV" There's on any day "What ecu should I get" "I changed my BOV, now stalling" and a couple of other similar threads taking up HALF the forced induction first page...

Looks like I now know what tyres are going on my stockies... I've always looked at the 17s running 255/40 on the rear as not having enough sidewall flex for straight lining it (Excellent in corners though!) and now that I'm going for more out right straight line then bothering with corners... I'll go to a smaller rim, larger sidewall.. Edit: What's it like to launch in 1st gear? Is the setup good for a drag run at WSID, or still massive amounts of wanting to spin up in 1st and second?

Sounds like you need someone decent to build you a side pipe setup then my friend... There's PLENTY of room to fit good mufflers under there and shut it up... FYI, From memory after the cat, I can fit a 950mm long 5" muffler... Before the cat I can fit a 550mm muffler 5 inches... ATM, I run a 550mm muffler where I can fit a 950mm long one, and it's in 5" and I run a 550mm 7" muffler on the rear... Loudest time my car... When it's idling... Bring the revs up, and you hear the scream of the motor.., No exhaust noise... PS: I don't use off the shelf mufflers... Mine are all custom built...

I've bounced the limiter in 4th by mashing it once in secondand working up the gears in the wet. Not game for 4th in the dry... In the wet for some reason as long as when I mash it, I'm straight, I have no issues keeping in a straight line... In the dry though, second gear usually means 45 degrees sideways, grab 3rd and it's normally fishtail 4 lanes of traffic... Edit: As for taking off in 5th... Bugger that... I always take off in second gear in the truck, or work ute, occasionally I've accidentally done it in the Skyline, I very quickly actually shift down into 1st, and let the clutch back out... Mind you, button clutches don't like being slipped to take off with the torque required for 5th... And the light weight flywheel doesn't help it either...

What's worse is, it isn't even fully tuned... Rev limit kicks in at 5000RPM... But I need new tyres, and at the moment it's a matter of finding some bloody good ones... Are the Toyo tyres a semi, or a normal tyre? As I do a few, hard driven kays, and I don't want to wear out a set of semis doing road driving... And you mentioned 15mm of rake? Explain? As to the wet... It's always going to suck... Even in these "whales" But still... As you pull past someone trying to be "tough" in their "done up" car, and you're 45 degrees sideways and doing about 100km/h... It does get fun, but VERY hairy... And I know I can get 3rd gear going on the roll... Haven't yet attempted to snap 4th once it's spinning... But I reckon on the brake, start her off in 1st gear spinning, and it'd easily take 4th gear once you work up the gears...

Ha ha ha... Yeah, it's pretty much well how you describe it... Builds around 5PSi at around 3700 - 3800 with foot buried to the floor... it sort sticks at 5PSi until you get to around 4200RPM and then just smashes to full (Currently 14PSi) in a matter of around 10RPM... In the wet, it was just a matter of, get it in 5th as soon as possible and don't try to accelerate at all... That's with both my bald 255s on the rear, or the really good, 90% tread 235s... It just starts to really torque up around 3500RPM...

I need a bigger one? Nah, I'd much prefer a smaller one... Running a modified T04R/66 is the best way I remember to explain it... I wouldn't mind going to a GT35 spec turbo... From the little research I've done it should spool quicker, and give just as much top end...

I don't like the fact that mine will bag 3rd gear with 1/4 throttle in the wet... Makes it f**king pathetic attempting to overtake or anything... And that's 3rd gear, doing 80km/h, go to accel and it steps sideways... And at the cost of rubber on the rear... You cringe very quickly...

So you just had your stock Cams reground? Or you bought whole new cams, already done? I really want some new cams, as big as I can go, and for my head, it looks like a 272 with 9.25mm lift is as large as I can get in there... My biggest issue in finding cams is finding ones to match an RB20... That's $330 per cam? or $330 total?

Can I ask, what cam size did you end up going with?

Found said rumour/post again... Try those ones?

I swear I read in a thread someone gave the exact year model of car to get them from...