MBS206

Just had another look at pics. 1) Move your pressure source AWAY from your FPR. You should NEVER tee things off the FPR signal line. You can cause pressure drops when putting things on that flow air etc. 2) Your hose clamps on the hot side of the intercooler to turbo seem to not be sitting right. Undo them, line them back up, redo them.

Quoted as I'm also interested...

Adriano, Bubba, I shall replace the temp sensors. If you guys solve this one, I owe you both a beer!

Take it to a mechanic at this stage...

Thermo is rated at 76.5 The service manual gives a length it should be open at 90C. Car should be sitting around 77 - 78 when idling. Gauge in the dash is off the scale. As is ECU, and a thermometer.

R34 GTFour: The current thermostat is genuine. I decided after the second, that I'd try a genuine one. I'll time it on Saturday to see how long it takes to open. I know at 90degrees celcius it should be open 10mm (According to the service manual) And I've been squeezing the bottom hose, and you can feel it pressure the top hose (squeeze top hose first) from the radiator side, as though the thermo wasn't open. Very strange...

I run high flow. I might be able to gain 3RWKW at max with it removed. System flows well enough

It has both R32 senders in it. Is there a difference? Daisu: I have been yes, will be doing more soon, following the service manual at the moment to bleed it, need to cool car back down again.

Hey Daisu Yeah, the bottom rad hose is the inlet of water TO the motor, and this is where the thermo also sits, and also where the waterpump pulls water from (Hence the bypass directly behind the thermo that gets closed when it opens. When I had the water pump off, I blasted water through every opening I could find. From the top outlet pipe, to the water bypass where the thermo sits, to the point the pump pushes water through. They all flowed around and together... Weird... :S Oh and the engine was meant to be freshly rebuilt (And every sign on it says it is a fresh rebuild also...) Will pull the hoses off though and check for blockages, but it seems to be able to flow, as everytime I remove that pipe water pours out of it. Will removed and check though.

What let go on the old turbo? Just the exhaust wheel? If the intake also let go, pull the FMIC off and inspect it.

The stock gauge is also telling me it is WAY too hot. Even the mechanic is saying it is way too hot, especially for just sitting and idling.

Chrisso: Without thermo, the temp sits at 60 - 70 degrees, The issue with not running a thermo in an RB style motor, is the water divert in the back of the block, if it's not blocked whilst taking water from the radiator, I've been told it can hot spot the block. My mechanic refuses to tune it without a thermo in it, and as such, the car is at mine whilst we work out the issue (He was letting me work on it at his workshop for no charge, but workshop got full... ) The top hose is actually getting to a boiling temp, as 2 temp guages in the pipe say so, as does the laser gun, and a thermometer in the top of the rad.

I'd first check your throttle position sensor, next up would be change back to the same weight oil as you pulled out.

Hey all. Currently my 25/30 has a bad overheating issue. The car heats up nice and quick, but the skyrockets and fluctuates between 85 - 90degrees. The bottom radiator pipe stays cold, whilst the top is boiling hot. I have replaced the thermo stat 3 times, it now runs a genuine pump. I'm running the standard fan, and the air it is pulling off the radiator is cold, the only part of the radiator that is getting hot, is the top 1 - 2 inches. I haven't seen the temp go above 90 degrees, even if the car is moving. This issue has been there since the motor was put together. Any help/ideas/suggestions? Details below. Currently I have an RB25/30 It's running the RB25DE head from an R32, with 240 degree exhaust, and 248 degree inlet cams. The bottom end is a VL RB30 bottom end. The only mods to the bottom end (Other then being a fresh build) are ceramic coated pistons. Running the fuel side is a bosch 044 pump, with a sard adj reg, and Bosch 036 Injectors. Inlet mani is stock 25DE from an R32. Exhaust mani is a 6boost, bolted to a T04R. Coilpacks are splitfire, plugs are gapped to 1.1mm Running a plazmaman FMIC, and a BRAND NEW Radiator (The radiator has been run for 20 minutes, The old one passed away during testing to solve the over heating issue) The pump is a genuine nissan waterpump, RB30. It's been pulled off, and inspected, it is brand new too. I am kind of thinking that the standard outlet piping which is from 2 spots on the side of the head, which join into one pipe, and the one spot out the front of the inlet manifold, that join together, and then return to the radiator might need the pipes to the head blocked, and just leave the inlet mani side... Not sure though, and don't want to break anything. The motor has ALWAYS had this over heating issue since it went in my car. Any help, ideas, suggestions, things to check or try? This car is doing my head in majorly... Please help. Thanks heaps, Matt

Unplug EVERYTHING (and I mean EVERYTHING) THEN, Plug it all back in. Seriously, don't just do one or two plugs, do EVERY SINGLE plug. You'll find you've left one plug out, or a relay out, or a fuse. When you redo it, it'll all be sweet.

There's a thing of having temp correction to alter fuel, and as you get a hotter temp, most people put LESS fuel in, as there's less air. The issue becomes, there's less temp difference on the radiator to extract heat from the engine, and the inlet charge is hotter, which means, you're more likely to detonate. An AFR of 12.5, especially with a normal amount of timing, isn't something to sneeze at. It can shred an engine very quickly.

Nice AFR... Not... Rather heading to the lean side on that mate at a 12.5AFR most of the way through the rev range... That could be rather damaging on a warm day if it detonates.

Do you still have the stock rubber that goes from air filter toturbo?

An idiotic idea, and a brilliant way to kill a turbo from major spiking... What boost controller do you have on there? That really is a slow curve, and is NOT right. Have you looked at getting the $30 ebay turbo tech one? They work brilliantly. And a stock turbo, with those mods, should be seeing 10PSi by no later then 3000RPM.

You mean you have to pay more for antilag? WTF is this shit? It's a piece of code, they should just f**king add it!

Get a full compression check mate. My R33 used to do the same thing. I'd dropped cylinder number 3.

If you had an ashtray, how much would you want? Also for the dash surround (Big piece that goes up over stereo, and cluster) And also the two arm rest bits on the drivers doors? Just prices on IF you have them. If you do, I'll drop around soon and pick up. Also the clip that goes on the drivers seat, and holds onto the seat belt?

Missed this ages ago... Mine sounds from up at the turbo as I run launch control... And it's not the light pops you are all talking about, I get bangs + flame... But the light pops, are normal, and nearly every car does this, especially on down hills. Most cars though you can't hear it on as they run quiet exhausts.

Change your O2 sensor. If it's bunged, it'll really upset your car. Also check the two wire temp sensor is within spec. If it's saying the car is always cold, then you'll run rich all the time. Clean out your air filter, and your AFM as well. Then go grab some Subaru upper cylinder cleaner. Pull the line from the IACV off, and spray half the can down this hose. Put the hose back on, and leave it for 5 minutes. After the 5 minutes are up, start the car up, and get someone to hold the revs up (Up around 3 - 4000RPM) take the same hose off, and spray the other half of the can in, whilst getting the person to stop the car from stalling with more throttle. The car WILL blow a SHIT LOAD of black smoke whilst you do this, but, it's cleaning the whole engine out of carbon build up. Your car will love you for it. The neighbours won't.

The door lock, is right beside the thing to open the door, I put money on you bumping it! The other remote wouldn't have worked because the engine was running. My car won't listen to the remotes after the motor is started either.