MBS206

Buy brand new! 2 year old tyres dry out, and go hard, especially once the first initial bit is worn down! No matter how good these tyres WERE, they'll now be hard, and shit. Might as well just get them for burnouts!

Look up the build that Sydney Kid wants to do. He reckons it should be good for 400HP if I remembre rightly.

I know of a few people who've done idle tuning and what not over the net. Basically setup wireless internet, and do a remote connection over that (The same way you do Guilt but without the phone net) Obviously, that setup is only good for doing the idle and the low vacuum points (IE, open throttle up, and tune where the revs are sitting)

Check that the VCT is still plugged in, and working. Sounds like how the ECU goes when the VCT doesn't change over if not running 100%

So you ran that time with 363RWKW? AWESOME

This at the private track day... There was a CC GSR there running 11.6 also... With lots of smashing the limiter whilst wheel spinning and a screamer...

My exhaust mani gasket for an R32 RB25DE was $60 from nissan.

By far no Pro.Before removing the plugs I also hit the holes with an air gun to clean the shit out, and prevent it going down the hole. Also check down the plug holes also, although there's f**k all to see down there, and if anything goes in, you have f**k all chance of getting it out anyway. Just have to learn how to use the tools properly, and you'll be sweet.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power. And we know revs also kill motors. I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

Personally, I'd be going for a stock turbo if you don't want to break things... I'm running a T04R on the same setup as you, except for ceramic coated pistons, and a flowed head... I hit 4000RPM and just snap into massive amounts of torque... Off boost drives really well, but once above 4000RPM it REALLY Hauls ass...

In the last 6 weeks, no it hasn't been out, I've been driving another car. But it initially got locked away not because of the fuel economy, but because of some attention I stupidly drew to myself and the car... And I'd take it out tomorrow, except as of Friday just gone, I'm not at my work anymore... So I'm watching how much I have to spend on fuel now... But it used to come out and do 400 - 500KMs a week with that fuel economy... (And that was just normal running around, it only went to work ONCE...) I'll update you all with my economy once it's all tuned... But be aware, since I don't drive it alot, it often comes out and gets accelerated hard (Sticking within the speed limit though) although on track, it was known to fishtail 3rd gear without being prompted from the brake pedal or steering wheel.. Just mashing the throttle...

The only feature I see of this ECU, that is beating the Adaptronic e420c, is the auto gearbox control. And hey, the e420c costs around $1290RRP, with the plugin loom, runs map, boost control, launch control, traction control, dual maps, will do what you want it to when it sees knock, so many features in the Adaptronic. Closed loop idle, fuelling changes dependent on temp. All software and upgrades free, and when you get on there forums, or ring the business, you either speak to the Owner, or the 3 guys working for him. All of whom are into there cars, and extremely good at there jobs of fitting the ECU. So the question for me, deciding between these two ECUs if I was going to, would be "Is $700 more worth it for the auto gearbox control" for me, no it isn't, I run a manual, for the auto guys, it might just be, but you just leave your stock ECU piggy backed in to run the auto and save $700... I hadn't managed to find the final price, as I got to page 4, and got sick of the one sided bias coming from Dirt Garage who kept knocking everyone down if they passed a comment he didn't agree with... But hey, that's what sales is all about, pushing your point of view...

Looks normal A boost controller will just cause worse AFRs, but the extra air, still allows for more power. 2 ways to fix the AFR issue really, ECU change, or an adjustable fuel reg.

1500KMs since Start of january this year... Was off the road for some repairs at start of the year, but the last 6 weeks I haven't had it started.

I've only ever had good dealings with coppers. Been pulled over twice recently, both times when I've f**ked up. Since then, I've basically taken the car off the road, and changed my driving habits. Car is off the road until I make it all legal. (No, I wasn't defected, nor was the bonnet "popped" in either instance, both were for driving f**k ups and the coppers wanted words with me... One ended in a fine, the other a stern warning) Before that, it had been nearly 18 months BEFORE that, that I had been pulled over, and copped a defect notice, but, the copper was nice, and the thing that made him suspicous, was I had 2 missing wheel nuts, but he actually went through and gave legitimate reasons for the defects, (Well, except for one, but a FMIC does look like a cheese grater... Just the factory radiator support is going to do more damage... Ah well) But all of my dealings had been good, and I had a good history with the force until recently, of which I f**ked up, which, will probably bring me under more suspicion for a long time to come, until I can show that I'm not being an idiot...

So, just to keep the NA boys happy with there good fuel economy. Car: R33 GTS-t Engie + Mods: RB30DET, valve job, small set of cams, light weight fly wheel, T04R + 6boost mani, Plazmaman FMIC. Highway economy: 17L/100KM... City Economy: 25L/100KM... The ability to press the loud pedal and put myself in the backseat... INSANE... Yes, that fuel economy is why as of tomorrow night, it won't have been driven for 6 weeks, and why it has also only been started for around 15 seconds a week ago. Goes in for a tune in just over a week hopefully.

If you're going to be running a MAP sensor, and doing it STRAIGHT AWAY (Like when you put the "little filter on" and tune it straight away) then it will be perfectly fine to run with a "little filter on" If you plan to attempt to drive it even for 20 minutes with the AFM and stock ECU, you won't get far at all UNLESS you block the pipe with some duct tape for a short time, and screw the adjuster screw all the way in and unplug the wires on the IACV and then adjust the throttle so it's partly open when you let off the throttle so that the car will idle.

From experience, without the o-rings on, the motor floods.

You're telling me you can't change your plugs with the strut brace on? Do you even KNOW how to use a socket set properly? I've done mine before with the intake pipe still on there also. (Yes, straight over the motor pipe!) they're piss easy, and DO NOT take 1 - 1.5 hours to do!

You've most likely forgotten to put new orings on, which would have probably been removed when they were cleaned...

Considering it's revving to 7200RPM by those graphs... I'm going with a worked LS2 due to the revs + torque

They're used to replace either the inlet air temp sensor, or replace the water temp sensor. Both are just a resistor (Available at Jaycar for around 10cents) and are just fooling your car into saying it's cold, using more petrol, and other such rough running bullshit.

You don't need revs for drifting! If you needed all these "revs" why would the Holden V8 boys be able to compete so well, considering they only rev to 5500RPM... An engine that produces torque, with a well matched gearbox and diff is what you need. Think about it, the V8s frying tyres in second gear at 5500RPM odd, are spinning the rears at 130KM/h... Stock skyline, with a stock gearbox/diff is revving at 7000RPM and only spinning the tyres at 100km/h, match the skyline motor to a V8 gearbox/diff, and what happens, it dies in the ass in 2nd, because all of a sudden, at peak revs, it's attempting to spin the wheels at 165km/h... Affectively attempting to use 3rd gear! But the Skyline (And most Jap cars for that fact) are setup to produce power by the way of revs, not torque.

If I could spend money again (And enough of it) I'd probably have a 6L V8 residing in my bay with a super charger on it personally...

3.0L all the way. Still not fully tuned. I feel from idle I can pull just as much torque, at around 3000RPM I've got slightly less torque (Not MASSIVELY) but hit 4000RPM and it's all over. I run a quite large turbo too (T04R) and it's just so nice. The old 2.5L needed to be really planted mid corner in second to start to wheel spin (Most of the time a clutch kick) the new one doesn't even get on boost and it starts lighting up sideways with everything identical (Tyres, diff, gearbox etc) except for the motor and turbo change... 3.0L also needs so much less throttle and I can pull away from traffic. jumping lanes etc and having to accelerate. the 2.5L was normally drop a gear and open her up to get upto speed. the 3.0L is quite good in zipping up in speed without needing to drop a gear. The ability to light up on the roll in 2nd gear compared to having issues getting wheel spin with out a clutch dump in 1st, and still no wheel spin in second... 3rd gear still spinning in the 3.0L vs only 1st in the 2.5... 4th gear still spinning in the 3.0L in the wet compared to just starting to spin lightly in 2nd on the 2.5L... Basically... The 3.0L shits all over the 2.5L in terms of driveability, torque, power, and once tuned, I'll rev it to the exact same amount... Revs stress a motor alot more then torque. If I make the same power, at 1000RPM less, I'm making more torque then the other guys, and producing less stress on my pistons/rods. Therefore, more reliable. Same cost to build up either (Forged 25 vs Forged 30) and you still come out with more torque, better driveability, etc.