MBS206

That pipe, from the return line on your BOV. Put some duct tape over it (Alot) and I bet it goes away. Then, go buy a new return line.

What was the readings on the compression test?

Make:Nissan Model:Skyline R33 Milage:171500 (Only 1500 on brand new motor) Transmission:Manual Colour:White Location:Wollongong Complied?Yes RWC supplied?N/A Currently registered?Yes Price:$20 000 (Very negotiable on price...) Contact:0406 962 347 (Matt) Comments / Modifications:RB30 Block, stock internals on RB30 except for Ceramic Coated Pistons. RB25 Head from an R32 RB25DE. Has "small" cams (248 inlet, and 240 exhaust, and from memory around 9mm lift.) with a 3 angle valve job. 6Boost Manifold. T04R/66 turbo. Tial 44mm Waste Gate Custom dump, with full custom exhaust. Exhaust is basically noisiest at idle. And it's not that "loud". Plazmaman FMIC. Intercooler piping is half Plazmaman, half made by Leigh at ETM. (Exhaust was done by Darren at Marshall St Mufflers) Splitfire coilpacks. Engine has 1500KM on it. Car has 171500KM on it. Rego is due end of Jan 09. Advan RG2 Light weight rims. Bilstein Shocks, with GTS4 springs. Has spare standard shocks and springs, along with spare lowered springs. Also have a shift kitted Jatco 4 Speed auto, as well as an RB25DET turbo, and an RB20DET turbo to go with it and spare rims. Adaptronic e420c ECU (Currently requiring a retune) Will sell with my stereo in it as well. Pioneer 7850BT headunit I think is the number JBL Splits. Sony 4Channel Amp JBL 12" Sub. Car also has a FACTORY, non leaking sunroof, and window tint. Images: http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/859/cop...49mediumvu0.jpg http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/382/cop...51mediumro7.jpg http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3636/ds...74mediumxo6.jpg http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4471/ds...90mediummt9.jpg The photos are about 18months old, but the car looks the same, bar sitting slightly higher.

My reference to ride height, was in response to mr Nismo. And I'd be saying your car was one of the nearly stupidly low cars if you only had 110 - 115mm of ride height. Seeing how the legal limit, when completely empty, is 120mm, and when maximum loaded, is 100mm... You had a max of 15mm before you were below legal limit... Something I'd call low. I was simply pointing out, if you read the post I quoted, that a 4" gave more ride height issues then a 3"... Whereas, mr Nismo wasn't trying to state ride height issues with the person running a 3"...

You've got more issues with a 4" exhaust and ride height, then a 3"... And I was talking, perfectly legal road going cars. Not those running screamer pipes or anything. Also, not every 400RWKW car runs turbos or forced induction either. But I have seen FI cars, run with 400RWKW and 3"

Seen enough ~400RWKW cars, with ZERO gain from a 3" to 4" exhaust...

If she's still on her L's, as mentioned, in NSW, she can still drive the Stagea. The restrictions do not apply until she gets her P plates. Also, if you two live together, and it's the only car, you may have very strong grounds for an exemption.

Had same issue when I first bought my car. Had massive amounts of toe in. Sounds like yours could be camber related. Do you have bad un-even tyre wear (Look at your rear tyres before answering this)

Pull your rear rotors off, and inspect the hand brake shoes. Check EVERYTHING hand brake related for signs of hitting. As soon as I opened this thread I thought handbrake.

When you put the car back on the ground, you go around, and push down on all 4 corners HARD so the shocks and springs settle. It's easier then driving it... Also, in NSW, the minimum height the car can be is 100mm, this is when FULLY LOADED. The minimum height it can be when empty, is 120mm FROM THE LOWEST POINT OF THE CAR. But skylines look ridiculous scraping there asses out. Mine sits at factory height... All I want is around half an inch lower.

I put two screw drivers behind mine and just kept "jarring" it, and it just slid of so nicely... They do have to come off perfectly flat (You can't pull the bottom without pulling the top etc)

Pull the CAS and check it. And do a compression check whist you're there.

Running the same plugs, same coil packs, I went from a stock RB25DET to an RB25/30DET with a T04R off the side... Still running at 1.1mm gap with out an issue, and currently enough grunt to have 3rd gear spinning hard before I even hit full torque...

What sort of circuit? Full on racing, against other people, or just track work days, with SAU etc? If just track days with SAU, I woudn't bother surge tanking it. Just keep it all topped up with fuel, and it'll save you money! Edit: If I wasn't so worried with legalities, maybe had a thousand more to throw around, I'd probably throw another 2 044s in my boot, with a 2L surge tank... (Leaving the current 044 as a lifter, and to 044 to feed the fuel rail, of which I'd run split entry single return, with a fuel cooler) Unfortunately, I don't have the extra money to even put a normal surge tank in, with the 044 feeding the rail as it does now, and stock pump as a lifter... I just don't see the point, as I like my limited boot space, and the easier legalities of it, attempting to keeping it look "stock" (Although, the f**k off high mount gives it away... )

Build it 3" It'll still flow enough. Trust me.

Poor wiring. Check all connections and plugs.

If I were racing. Weight is an issue, yes. Doing it my own way for time. I'll leave it how it is. Even dropping the 20 - 30 litres out of the tank for a "race" I'm only looking to save 10KG really... Think about it, you add a heap more weight back in with extra tanks, pumps, wiring, fuel lines, etc etc... If I were racing, and going for every hundredth of a second, I'd have a completely stripped out car. On a car like ours, with full interiors, 20 - 30KG is NOTHING. Especially when you have to start dealing with legalities for road use.

Do you have diodes sitting across your coils on the relays? (Or indication LEDS on the coils)? These remove a spike which can cause the relay to hold on for a while, and cause you other issues. The thing with the fuel pressure... If you slow your pump, you WILL get a drop flow from the fuel pump, at which point, 50PSi will still be made, but less fuel will flow. Eventually as you slow the pump though, you will loose rail pressure. Just because your rail is setup to have "50PSi" does not 100% mean you'll have 50PSi, it just means the max, at that vacuum point you'll have, is 50PSi... So as you lower your voltage, you can have fuel pressure drop, and you will 100% guaranteed have a fuel flow drop. If it worked how you were saying, I'm sure HEAPS of companies would only run at 6volts or so... Your current, is PURELY dictated by V = IR... Keep resistance constant, and your current follows the voltage change. (Volts up, Current up, volts go down, current goes down) The only thing I can think of, is to put a diode in line on each relay... So you'd put 2 diodes in your system... Will help isolate the 2 relays that are triggered from the AFM. May help remove that strange problem you said you had when you switched it off. I'd also be checking what actual voltage you have across the fuel pump when in 7V mark. From what I understand of the the GTR fuel slowing thing, is that it uses a voltage divide, which places a resistor in line also... It's how they work... (not explained properly by me there, but yeah... It divides the voltage by wacking a resistor in line from what i know of the workings of the GTR fuel slower) The only other thing I could think for you to do... Put another fuel pump inline with the 044. You'll need 2 one way check valves. But run another GTR pump in parallel to the 044. And when the voltage goes above 2.5Volts, turn the 044 pump on. When it drops below. Turn it off. Run the second GTR pump full time. The one way check valves will stop fuel attempting to flow backwards through the 044 when it is turned off. And the second one way check valve after the GTR pump, will stop fuel flowing through the GTR pump when the 044 pump is on... |FUEL TANK|------|GTR LIFT PUMP|---|Surge tank|---GTRPUMP---CHECKVALVE---\_______Engine fuel rail... -----------------------------------|Surge tank|---044PUMP ----CHECKVALVE---/ My attempted drawing of how to set them up...

Okay. Go and compression check the engine... That's f**ked...

What do you mean pushed out a kiwi size? Whered it push it out? Pics?

Not tracked it yet with this new setup. Pushed it hard under brakes/throttle, and through some corners. No surge... But I'm also not stupid, the tank holds 65 litres, I won't let it drop below having 50litres, at a time to refill. When pushing, don't do it with less then 35 litres in there. Factory fuel tank is designed with a swirl/surge point in the pickup. Just checkout the design of the factory tank.

Bosch 044 mounted in tank. No surge tank. No smell. No noise. No Surge either. Looks stock, sounds stock, and has no legality issues.

Did you pull the cas out and actually check it? It's very unlikely the cat fouling will make it skip a tooth. Have you replaced the actual fouled cat yet?

CAS okay? Is it loose? Pull it out, make sure the little teeth inside aren't all chewed out. (Be aware, when you put this back in, you'll need to reset the timing.)

Another idea might be, instead of returning the fuel from the fuel rail to the surge tank... Return it to the actual fuel tank. As to the conservation of power. WTF? I've never heard of "the conservation of power" Power, in an electrical sense is purely dictated by P=VI, that is, Power, in watts, is equal to Volts, times by Amps. And your voltage is given as V = IR, that is, voltage, is equal to amps, multiplied by resistance in ohms. The ONLY reason I can see it being an issue, is that the voltage is generally dropped from 12volts, down to 7, via an inline resistor... Hence, your total current flow is limited, and it might not be enough to start the pump at 7volts... I'll go back over your diagram and see what the go is... Edit: Can you draw me up a full wiring diagram of how you have this? Your first diagram is abit ambiguous. Also, you say the pump primed, and then stopped... Have you attempted to START the car? Not sure if you realised, when you first click to "On" the car will only flick the fuel pump on for 3 seconds I beleive it is, at which point, it shuts off again until you start to get the engine cranking...