MBS206

Interested in swap for anything? PM price on shell + engine/g/box supplied with.

As a factory turbo owner you'll want to upgrade the turbos diff anyway. They just single leg too much at this age. Compression ratio, only a slight change from what I've seen, nothing to worry about. On the N/A engine, keep boost around 7PSi on a free flowing exhaust, other wise you WILL hit R&R and ONLY run it on 98 fuel. GTS-t HATE 95 fuel (Experience here) Braking department, it's a good opportunity to upgrade anyway. Stock internals should hold easily with just stock /high flow on the side. Longevity of a DE+T will all be about driver abuse. At the end of the day, rebuild it, and it'll be just as tough as a fully built DET Edit: My opinion, keep the R33S2 GTS for a daily run around. Go and buy an R33 S1/2 GTS-t for cheap as, keep it as a weekend car. The price that you pay for them now is basically nothing. Might as well get both. Then when the performer dies, you've still got a good daily.

May cost different depending on where you go. Last blueslip I got was $50, and then cost me another $35 I think it was to attach an engineers cert. After my blueslip, I avoid having to get them done!

You can go alot leaner then 12s as well if you want to, just need to watch your ign advance.

$50 for a full inspection. If it passes. Good. If it fails. Fix it within 14 days. They will go over the whole car. Check for loose/bad suspension. Steering rack. Ride height. Lights. They'll go over and under the car. Make sure your tyres are good and are legal for your car. If you have an exhaust, get it checked for DB readout first. You may need an EPA one too, normally just DBa though. Locks, make sure they work. Ign, make sure key can't be removed unless in "lock" Make sure steering lock works. Tinted tail lights? Detint them Illegal window tint? Detint them. Cracks in window? Get them fixed. Loose seats? Fix them. Guages around the place, remove them. (Even if you put them back in the moment you drive out) Usually, most people advise you to "offer" them something to fail the car on (IE, have a blown headlight or tail lamp) They'll pick it, you replace it, you pass.

Maybe he'll shit his undies... SKIDDIES!

Don't use the flanges. Use the joiners they run on truck exhausts. When you need to change exhausts, it takes 30 seconds, and there is NO gasket/goo involved! Want to replace the muffler with a straight piece... It's going to take you longer to jack the car up this way!

You sir, are an idiot. They'll let anyone advertise what ever they want in the mag as long as they pay! Plus Hot4s and FF know nothing on cars.

Best price on turbo?

Check connections on the fuel pump too. And check injector connections

Doing auto - man conversion on old commodore, threw half the parts away because I decided they were "unneeded" Car drove perfect too! Cable ties held it's front bar on, Worst thing in the skyline was double sided tape to hold the DVD player in

Oh, sorry, I thought you meant you spun it, drove off, spun again. Yes, these beasts do take a fair amount of care in the wet. Even in the dry they do as well... Next time at least you'll remember to be uber careful in the wet.

You spun out once... Did something in your head not click and say "Slow down, take it easy, it's wet, you've already lost it"? How do people manage to do this in the wet to themselves? I've been on bald tyres (Outside of tyre had tread, but inside was shot... 3deg camber) and in the wet, with oil to the point you could see it, and the only time I had an issue with traction, was accelerating away BRISKLY (If I drove how I should in the wet, there wasn't an issue!) So, I ask, how were you driving when you spun in the wet?

Sounds like it could be the corner of the brake pad. Take them out, and on the leading and trailing edges, put a 45degree chamfer (Very small one) and see how they go.

You only need to be heard driving on the street and have it go off and you're busted. They don't even NEED you to pop the hood. Then when you go for blueslip time, you get hit with EVERYTHING! (Oh, and blueslippers go underneath the car and would see it)

Why is it not suited to the R31? They run the same motor as the VL yes? And I know the Adaptronic is on a VL RB30

Why is it not suited to the R31? They run the same motor as the VL yes? And I know the Adaptronic is on a VL RB30

The PS3 can't play all PS2 games. It has been a short fall that only came to light after they released the console.

1) Buy private. 2) Try a few different MODELS (Don't just take Skylines for a run.) Take out the Silvias, Evos, etc... Just make sure the Skyline is exactly what you're after.

http://www.ebgames.com.au/home/home.cfm Considering you can buy it for $699 at a shop withOUT a trade required. $850 is a bit of a rip...

www.adaptronic.com.au is what I used to run on my R33. Only reason I don't now: I'm selling the car, keeping the ECU to use on the next car.

Check out the Adaptronic. Closed loop boost control and many other features.

cable ties...

Sorry for the delay in pictures guys. Timing between home and work isn't great and I haven't had a chance to unwrap them to get photos.

I know as much as you guys know on them now. They're hydraulic lifters. Cannon is still here, and I'm in Wollongong