MBS206

Two front shocks? What condition are they in? Is there a car that's had rear end damage, as i see on the first post, your car has front damage, but you say you're wrecking two cars.

Including shocks sold?

It's to do with torque and how much pressure is being created outwards on the outer surface with the interference fit.

Had a quick look around, can't seem to find what I need to "fix" this bug (Although I doubted I can, as I'm client side) But I've attempted to go to paullr33.skylinesaustralia.com (Unsure if that is 100% correct, I followed the link in his sig) to visit his site, and I am getting an error that looks like this. Any chance someone can have a look at this as from what I read somewhere on this site in one of Pranks posts or blogs, this issue has supposedly been fixed. Note: I get it on multiple computers.

Okay guys, I've been PM'd the info that I needed, and for those in the future who want this info. The fuel pump runs at dual stage, just connect the fuel pump relay wire will give you low speed. From the info I was sent, grounding pin 104 sends the pump into high speed mode, delivering more fuel. Will let you know on Saturday night how I go. This can be locked now if the mods want. Matt

Advantage of a screamer pipe: The police can locate you from 2 states away. They have a huge fine that goes with them as well.

No sorry, I'm trying to work out how to adjust my aftermarket ECUs wiring, to enable me to get an AFR richer then 13:1 when the injectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Alrighty guys and girls. Putting an ECU into my car, and have come across a problem whilst tuning. At 5000RPM, 10.5PSi, my AFR (On a wideband 02) is going to the maximum richness of 13:1 (WOAH, thats bad!) Now, car is running stock fuel pump, stock fuel reg, stock injectors. Fuel pump is wired up using the fuel pump relay pin on the stock wiring loom, but from what I can gather, there is another circuit in there also, that enables the fuel pump to enter a faster running state. Now, from what I can see from wiring diagrams, this is something like pin 106, but the issue is, I would like to know how the stock ECU operates this. Does it: a) Provide 12Volts when the higher state is required? b) Ground out the wire, when the higher state is required? I know that this can be tested, but I can't get to the car right now, and won't be able to for a little while, and was just wanting some knowledge on how this setup operates. Also: At the moment, I would prefer to NOT be going to do the fuel pump direct feed mod that is written in the FAQ section. So please, don't mention it. And don't mention, "get a bigger pump" etc as this isn't the pump, or fuel systems limit. The stock ECU, at the same boost pressure sees AFRs around 10.5:1 - 11:1 so it seems to be that the whole fuelling side of the car, I'm not quite understanding (Electrically on the fuel pump itself) Any help on how this system works?

I've been on the skid pan, I know how much fun it is, even if you're "3 seconds slower"! (That's f**k ALL over such a long distance) and it's so hella fun, plus everytime you turn the key to head out, you learn something new about your vehicles handling technique.

KeyMaker: Not having a go at you. IMO if a hand controller is supplied, with the ability to tune, you should be able to tune the ECU through it, and it should be made to be done fairly easy. Yes, the handcontroller is great for checking sensors etc, but the ECU I'm about to install, I plug the laptop in, hit one key, and I have my sensors. Not quite as "great" and "easy" as the PFC, but if I'm diagnosing my ECU/Engine, I like screen captures. Again, Datalogit can most likely do it, but then, what is the point of the hand controller? Sales gimmick?

My R33 is really kicking me hard in the pants at 2500RPM and it's running FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, and a lightened flywheel. Compared to a mates old one, (Stock R33) mine seem to roll out of corners on less throttle quicker then his would. Putting it down to the flywheel. Oh, and 10PSi of boost. But I'm talking about still being in vacuum response out of corners. Even when just lightly cruising in vacuum I can feel the turbo hitting efficiency from 2500RPM and I'm having to ease the throttle off to stop the car taking off up the road.

So you just ran an external oil feed upto the VCT then Craved? Or is that a return?

I'd also say look into the Adaptronic. Will be having mine fitted and tuned very soon.

A larger pipe means the turbo has to supply more air to get up to pressure. So going to a larger piper actually increases turbo lag.

100% in. Let me know when $$$ are needed.

I'm not reading 260 pages worth of stuff, when from what I've read so far of it (about 10-15 pages in) is mainly people going "OMG, that's great, I plan to do that too" It seems more of an RB30 chatter then a technical guide

So does anyone have a page that i cna look at to see how to setup the VCT properly.

Datalogit costs money AFAIK Why would I want to spend EVEN MORE on an aftermarket ECU to tune it? Tuning software should be free! You can DL Microtech, Haltech, LINK (IIRC) Wolf, Adaptronic. It's all free. I'm not paying $1000 for an ECU, then having ot pay more for software, what a ripoff idea! When you buy an aftermarket ECU, everything to tune it should be supplied (Or be readily available for free)

Has anyone managed to set the VCT up yet on the RB30/25 combo?

Corinne says: As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. - That's because you can't tune them properly wink.gif You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up. That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC - SAFC's are shit to tune.. they are very rough.. you can never get those flat spots out of them. Corrine, PFC are frigging annoying to tune off of that little hand controller, especially when attempting to use map tracer at the same time to look where the engine is sitting, and then adjusting that! And I never said the SAFC was good, I said it was possible he had lost his map from it.

I have the exact same issue. Especially the reversing and then braking issue. My wheel alignment guy found the problem. My front upper control arm bush was shot, allowing the control arm to float backwards and forwards into the car body. He noticed it via the tiny amount of rust where it was hitting and slight scraping/ding.

17mm Hg, my 33 idles at 20 - 21 mm Hg, and so do a shit load others I've seen... Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere personally. Also, ditch all the little tuneable things, and get one big tuneable thing. As much as I'm not a fan of the PFC, you should get one. You should use one device to control one element, at the moment you're using 2 devices to control one element. Not smart. They tangle each other up. That and you may have lost your map in the SAFC

I might meet you guys there if I remember.

If you still have motor, box, ecu and loom when you're about to send it to the wreckers, let me know.

I'll rebuild it for $2000. *Gets out sledgehammer, gaffer tape, super glue and 100 sheets of paper for gasket material*