MBS206

slide your hand under the car, where the EGT probe goes into the cat, grab ahold of the cable, give it a gentle pull TOWARDS the cat (So that you'd be pulling cable from the car towards the cat) You might find that it's cut, like mine is.

If the VCT is OFF when going for top end power, then you'll never get the same response (You've changed the VE characteristics of the engine down low) So when unplugged you will never get the same low down response, BUT with a decent tune (More fuel/timing) it should see you getting back alot of your response. When you change cam profiles, it adjusts the timing maps drastically, that is exactly what you've just done. Most likely, down low, you might be running a touch leaner or so the o2 sensor might say. Throw it on a dyno, and see what you can tune in.

Leave the VCT It does what your cam gear is doing, changes the positioning of the cam, a: for better response, b: for more top end. Difference being, it does it whilst the motor revs up. You set your cam gear once and leave it (Don't know how well you can get out, and change your cam gear whilst you're driving) Just do the exhaust gear.

Anything above around 8PSi on my 33 creates the bogging/rich and retard feeling at different points in the rev range (holding the throttle off a little bit it feels like it goes much harder, and doesn't bog) I think I have a minor leak somewhere, mainly near the manifold. Car comes off the road soon for some work, and this will be one of the things I adress. (Along with new ECU)

paulr33 Do a dyno power run with the VCT turnt on all the way to redline. Then do a run all the way to redline with it turnt off. Have a look at the huge difference. Where the two graphs cross, this is your switch over point. Due to the amount of lag down low, this may well indicate, due to the cam movement, that it wants some more timing (And will most likely be able to be done without inducing ping due to the cam "profile" change) You may want to leave it turnt off and attempt a change of the tune.

Ooo very pretty. Looks alot more impressive then the 2-3Metre one we have in my workshop that you have to bend everything by hand...

The RB motor was named such as they knew they'd be placing the RB25DET in the R33, hence it stands for "Race Boat"

Bump: Drop to $420 ONO

Oh, that is only a minor amount, as at 3000RPM only 0.025ml is entering each cylinder. I didn't think the amount of water would be so small. Here's a question that just came into my head. What sort of fail safe do you have incase the water/meth runs out? Like activate an alarm, or alter a fuel map through an input?

It has a 3 inch inlet, and a 3 inch outlet, what other dimensions do you need?

Alrighty So I have a spare VP S2 3.8L V6 Commodore motor sitting down the back. It has NO alt, NO PS, NO LOOM, NO ECU It has been stripped and just "placed" back together (Needs a rebuild) Has basically everything else with it Also have everything that's required for a manual to auto conversion on a V6 (Torque convertor, bell housing, interior parts, shifter, tail shaft) This all came out of my old VR V6 Acclaim. Gearbox has dropped something. It still drove, but much more then 1/4 drive and it went majorly slipping through 1st and 2nd (no drive at all) Even a couple of times in 3rd if I went to overtake on the freeway, was quite dangerous. So needs a rebuild. I have my two old rear tyres (no rim) One is on tread wears, the other has about 2mm left to wear. Suit a stock VR Commo rim. (205/50/15 I think, or 225/50/15 I think, not positive) I also have my cannon that came with my R33 for sale. It's in good working order, needs a polish. Reason for removal: Needed to get the car a touch quiter (Was only JUST legally over because of the rest of my exhaust system) 3" in, 3" out from memory So, engine: $100 (Make an offer) Gearbox: $100 (make an offer) Rest of the auto gear: $100 (Make an offer) Tyres: Buy something and if you want em you can have em. Cannon: $120 (make an offer) Okay, SMS me on 0406 962 347 or PM me on here. The first 3 items I'm quite negotiable on, basically throw me an offer and you'll prob be able to come pick it up. Quite urgently want them gone (They've just been sitting since they got pulled out, want em gone now, I need that side of the garage clear) Reason for sale: They're commodore parts (Mainly), I don't have my commodore anymore, and I'm no longer going to be building my buggy, hence they're no use. I also need my garage space... Make an offer, any offer.

If you have a programmable ecu, you should be able to setup an output, so that when cruising/idling, the 044 pump is shutdown, and another smaller (maybe stock pump) is running. but the moment you go above say 3000RPM the output turns off, and the 044 pump comes on. So set it up, the output is ON for the small pump, off for large one. Put the 044 through a NC relay, and the small pump on the NO relay, set it up with a timeout delay (So that the NC relay stays open for say 1/2 a second whilst the small pump turns on.) This way, if you loose power, the larger pump will become the active pump. With this setup you WILL need a retune.

You're also getting a fair wack more power as you've increased your compression ratio, whilst keeping things cool. Water won't compress. Just remember that... Depending on what your bottom end is like, you might be putting ALOT of stress on your rods. Edit: Also, if you've tuned ignition timing to maximum torque, go and take around 5 degrees out, across the lot. You WILL not pass emmisions etc like that. You'll have extremely high NOx counts. Torque VS Ign Timing is a fair bit like a parabola. Right up the top 5 degrees either side is only a very minimal change in torque, but NOx VS Timing it's a HUGE change.

Gah! You get yours done at $140 - $200? I pay $50 for a FULL alignment. And it's all this guy does (All he has done for 30+years) Sets EVERYTHING on my car! Toe, camber, castor. Checks all my bushes, rack etc. Keeps telling me to rip my HICAS out... LOL

RB26/30 motor in. All old suspension OUT, new stuff in (Coilovers the works) Replace my wheels with brand new versions of whats on there (Gutter rashed by previous owners, plus one chunk from me hitting a mates garden (10CM high wall!) Pull the only minor dent out (I see it everytime I get the car out, but it's only a slight "in" need to have the light perfect to see it) Respray the whole car with a single pin stripe down the side. Bodykit etc would stay as is. Replace every rubber inside. Replace front seats with a good racing seat (For passenger and driver) Rear seat remove and a "cover" made to keep it neat. Fire extinguisher mounted back here. 6Point roll cage with side intrusion bars. 3" Harness. Most likely a custom dash (For extra guages and switches etc) Rip the whole stereo out completely. New diff Dogbox gear box.

Does the car still feel fast as it did before? Maybe the stock guage has died on you.

Not quite actually. The noise IS the air physically going back through the turbo, although it's not the turbo making the noise. Seeing how the fins are uni directional, backward flowing air WON'T slow the turbo down. But what happens is you get a major pressure spike between turbo and throttle body, now the turbo is still pushing air in (With a certain force) When the air inside the piping between turbo and throttle creates a force that is greater then the force of air entering, it backward flows. But the problem now becomes the turbo is still supplying X-force, but the pressure inside is now less, so it grabs some of the air that just came back out, and slams it back in. This happens over and over, so coming back out of your intake pipe (All the way back to the filter) you get a high pressure, low pressure, high pressure, low pressure (Relative to each other) and what does this give you? Well if you plot the pressures VS time, you'll have what looks like a sine wave. When air pressures go into a sine wave pattern with pressure changes, you have SOUND. It's not the hammering you get in your pipes at home. Also, alot of race teams will pull a turbo off, inspect it, and throw it back on. Why? Well they may have just done an endurance race, 6-24 hours. And 90% of that time the turbo is on full boost. That's like driving for 10 years on the street. Also, car manufacturers build cars to last when you buy them, so if it's so bad not to run one, then why don't the CA18DET run them? Or a 1G-GTE? and I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen of a Porsche GT3, they don't run them either. So if it's so damaging and bad to parts, why would a manuafacturer choose to do something that would make for warranty claims?

Aftermarket ECU is on it's way Have head and cams sitting here waiting for the ECU. Then just need fuel pump and FPR to make the most of things.

Run stock BOV with a boxed air filter. I got asked just 20 mins ago after I took off from my cousins if I ran a BOV as they couldn't hear thing on gear shifting, only noise they could hear was me spooling up as I accelerated. So keep foot of throttle (Just crack it, you can still accel quick enough like this) and shift really low in RPM range (2500RPM) And a turbo is a uni directional fan basicaly, meaning air going backwards places NO force on the turbo at all! And it was put on for emmisions reasons. Double reading air on AFM = double fuel, but in reality you have single dose of air (Actually less) and a massive dump of fuel. Also for the noise. No BOV = flutter. Such an awesome noise, but no matter how low in the revs you shift, you get it basically!

Heya all As we all know, the RB26DETT runs 6 throttles, whilst it's smaller brother runs only one. What I want to do, as a bit of a project, is work out how to put 6 throttle bodys on the RB25DET without actually mounting a RB26DETT head on it. So, does anyone know if it's possible to just swap manifolds etc? Or should I look at getting a 26DETT mani and a 25mani, and start pulling things apart and cutting/chopping and making it all fit?

Keep the moisture out of it. That's the killer Also, personally, no oil in the sump. Seen oil part way on bearings at work sitting for ages do nasty nasty things when the bearing is finally used.

You mean those cars can be driven?

You shouldn't really get a pressure increase at all! The same pressure is hitting the solenoid, at 7PSi before or after the intercooler change. Alot of people actually notice a pressure DROP (If pressyre taken before intercooler) due to a more affective cooling intercooler (Pressure is dependant on temperature too!) And if the actuator gets it's pressure from AFTER the intercooler, there should be ZERO change in pressure. If the actuator is set to open at 7PSI with x amount of air bled off, then it will open at 7PSi after some air is bled off.

I got quoted $55 for a front of the car only wheel alignment after a few bushes installed. Funnily, I pay $50 for the whole car!

What model tyres do you have? And if you're easing the throttle on as you exit the corner, generally the car will want to understeer. You just transferred all the weight to the rear wheels, so they're seeing a shitload of available grip, but the front end is left going "Where's my weight?" If you're punching it out of a corner (From like 0% throttle to 100% throttle) and understeering, get into drag racing, you have ALOT of grip in the rear. But, when people say to put sway bars on, personally, I'd rather take them off. A swaybar literally FIGHTS the action of the suspension and putting a rear sway bar on, gives you more front grip, is a total crock, it actually just removes the level of grip from the rear, making the front feel grippier. Set your spring rates and shock rates. Get it handling how you want, and then for MINOR tweaks, use sway bars (But don't go massive bars) I've seen this written by numerous people who set up suspension when they raced, and also my wheel aligner nearly kicked me out of his workshop when I mentioned sway bars for the exact same reason.