MBS206

If you release the steering wheel, it's following the camber of the road. If you have to drive up the street with opposite lock on, then you have a problem. a) A heavy right foot b) suspension issues. Mine pulls to the left and it's my HICAS. Did you get your wheel alignment done with the engine running?

The 1RWKW is an exxageration. And read up on how much energy it takes to raise 1ml of oil 1degree celsius. In the region of around 2.6J from memory (Or that might be per 100mls, can't remember, haven't played with fluids in a while) And think how much J is in your 60kw. And how does it dissipate this heat? Through the gearbox? I've never felt a gearbox get THAT hot. Metal doesn't dissipate heat as quickly as people think it does. I'll attempt to dig out the article that I was reading on slip issues with roller dynos. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll have much luck, as I can't even remember the people who did it. And the hub dyno, you will notice still looses energy, but not as much. Why? Well the factor that there isn't slip. But there are still the fans being turnt etc inside of the dyno.

The boost sensor is for the factory boost guage in the R33.

If you're loosing power in your drivetrain, where is going? Energy MUST be conserved. So, where does it? Sound? Heat? Is your drivetrain that noisy? I know mine isn't Do you boil your gearbox oil within a minute or so? I sure as hell don't. So then, where'd the energy go? To the back wheels. There's a nice little article out there, that you don't actually loose the power in your drivetrain, the issue is known as SLIP. Which occurs between the rollers and your tyre. And then the energy that is also required to spin up the fans on certain types of dynos. The energy isn't lost in your driveline, it's lost at the actual dyno. Just remember, conservation of energy, you don't just "loose" power, it turns into an "unuseable" energy, so sound or heat in our case, problem, the drivetrain ain't that noisy, nor do you boil your gearbox oil. So therefore, it isn't disappearing, we just can't physically measure it.

If a car makes 250RWKW legitimately at the back wheels, you're looking at probably 251RWKW at the engine. Drivetrains don't soak up much power at all.

Check the engine temp sensor resistance when cold, check it again when hot. Sounds like a dud sensor.

Edited: Removed some stuff. And as for what I'll be running, I WILL be running the Adaptronic, quite a strong unit, and I much prefer the customer service, and the way I know most of its background. Beautiful little computer. And when using the hand controller on the PFC, setting up idle, now that's a bitch. It's all jap writing, and then on the last two lines has A/C in english. How're you meant to know what each line does. Running a map trace to find bad load points via the hand controller (And this is the way MANY people tune PFC) and then going back twenty billion menus, and forward another one thousand. That gets frustrating. And the AFM has benefits over the MAP, but the MAP also has many benefits over the AFM, and personally, I'd rather throw a MAP sensor on at like 1/2 the price of a AFM. As for dual maps, it can be very handy. Have your proper tune on one map, and have a very lazy tune on another map. Go away somewhere on holidays, I don't take my laptop, but if I get stuck with a bad batch of fuel, flick a switch, and there's alot more protection on the motor then. Also, why would wanting anti lag constitute that I can't drive a turbo? Have you ever actually tried driving with anti lag on? Now that makes for alot more of a handful off the mark. And the other fact is, if you READ my other post again, you'll see I wasn't saying the PFC was a heap of crap, but most of your points, (Emmisions, driveability etc) are ALL able to be had in other ECUs, it's how well you tune them. So for an advanced user, they would all meet those requirements for you, and for a basic user, all that you need to do is find a decent tuner. So go read again, and you'll see that I wasn't attacking the PFC, nor did I actually put it down, I just stood up for your inaccurate attack on other ECUs.

Take it to a proper authorised Microtech tuner. Have fun though, last time I checked there wasn't many Microtech authorised tuners around. Microtechs can be an absolute pain in the rear end to tune, so I HOPE your tuner knows what he's doing with it. That, and your injectors seem insanely big for high-flows.

Try a higher dampening and rebound rate on the SAME spring rate. Alot of axle tramp is caused by the spring being too stiff, or the shock not having a high enough dampening rate.

1: You need to pay more to get rid of the AFM (Which is a restriction) Considering prices I've seen for AFM to upgrade, it's around 1/3 of the price to run a larger map sensor which ISN'T a restriction 2: There are ALOT of features that are not in the PFC that I like. Dual maps Anti lag The english language 3: Driveability all comes down to your tuner, any computer will become tunable, when the right tuner is on that computer 4: Emmisions are easy to pass, any ECU can make a car pass emmisions, again, it's all in the tune. The only thing PFC have over other ECUs is Tetris.

Just phone an engineer and ask, much easier then having them go "No, I won't engineer this car because" They're more then happy to answer a question or two if you ring them.

Don't the skylines run a flexible fuel hose through the cabin standard?

I'm already running splitfires And 1st gear "normally" seems fine for me, except one day I punched it and it must have hit a boost cut/fuel cut and I nearly smacked my head on the steering wheel except for the seat belt lock, then it came back to life took off up the road, then 2nd gear played it's usual tantrum Might have a good search of the IC piping soon. Could you hear your leak?

how many litres?

slide your hand under the car, where the EGT probe goes into the cat, grab ahold of the cable, give it a gentle pull TOWARDS the cat (So that you'd be pulling cable from the car towards the cat) You might find that it's cut, like mine is.

If the VCT is OFF when going for top end power, then you'll never get the same response (You've changed the VE characteristics of the engine down low) So when unplugged you will never get the same low down response, BUT with a decent tune (More fuel/timing) it should see you getting back alot of your response. When you change cam profiles, it adjusts the timing maps drastically, that is exactly what you've just done. Most likely, down low, you might be running a touch leaner or so the o2 sensor might say. Throw it on a dyno, and see what you can tune in.

Leave the VCT It does what your cam gear is doing, changes the positioning of the cam, a: for better response, b: for more top end. Difference being, it does it whilst the motor revs up. You set your cam gear once and leave it (Don't know how well you can get out, and change your cam gear whilst you're driving) Just do the exhaust gear.

Anything above around 8PSi on my 33 creates the bogging/rich and retard feeling at different points in the rev range (holding the throttle off a little bit it feels like it goes much harder, and doesn't bog) I think I have a minor leak somewhere, mainly near the manifold. Car comes off the road soon for some work, and this will be one of the things I adress. (Along with new ECU)

paulr33 Do a dyno power run with the VCT turnt on all the way to redline. Then do a run all the way to redline with it turnt off. Have a look at the huge difference. Where the two graphs cross, this is your switch over point. Due to the amount of lag down low, this may well indicate, due to the cam movement, that it wants some more timing (And will most likely be able to be done without inducing ping due to the cam "profile" change) You may want to leave it turnt off and attempt a change of the tune.

Ooo very pretty. Looks alot more impressive then the 2-3Metre one we have in my workshop that you have to bend everything by hand...

The RB motor was named such as they knew they'd be placing the RB25DET in the R33, hence it stands for "Race Boat"

Bump: Drop to $420 ONO

Oh, that is only a minor amount, as at 3000RPM only 0.025ml is entering each cylinder. I didn't think the amount of water would be so small. Here's a question that just came into my head. What sort of fail safe do you have incase the water/meth runs out? Like activate an alarm, or alter a fuel map through an input?

It has a 3 inch inlet, and a 3 inch outlet, what other dimensions do you need?

Alrighty So I have a spare VP S2 3.8L V6 Commodore motor sitting down the back. It has NO alt, NO PS, NO LOOM, NO ECU It has been stripped and just "placed" back together (Needs a rebuild) Has basically everything else with it Also have everything that's required for a manual to auto conversion on a V6 (Torque convertor, bell housing, interior parts, shifter, tail shaft) This all came out of my old VR V6 Acclaim. Gearbox has dropped something. It still drove, but much more then 1/4 drive and it went majorly slipping through 1st and 2nd (no drive at all) Even a couple of times in 3rd if I went to overtake on the freeway, was quite dangerous. So needs a rebuild. I have my two old rear tyres (no rim) One is on tread wears, the other has about 2mm left to wear. Suit a stock VR Commo rim. (205/50/15 I think, or 225/50/15 I think, not positive) I also have my cannon that came with my R33 for sale. It's in good working order, needs a polish. Reason for removal: Needed to get the car a touch quiter (Was only JUST legally over because of the rest of my exhaust system) 3" in, 3" out from memory So, engine: $100 (Make an offer) Gearbox: $100 (make an offer) Rest of the auto gear: $100 (Make an offer) Tyres: Buy something and if you want em you can have em. Cannon: $120 (make an offer) Okay, SMS me on 0406 962 347 or PM me on here. The first 3 items I'm quite negotiable on, basically throw me an offer and you'll prob be able to come pick it up. Quite urgently want them gone (They've just been sitting since they got pulled out, want em gone now, I need that side of the garage clear) Reason for sale: They're commodore parts (Mainly), I don't have my commodore anymore, and I'm no longer going to be building my buggy, hence they're no use. I also need my garage space... Make an offer, any offer.