MBS206

Go down to a tyre shop, and ask to have a look at the new Falken range. As for Falken tyres being shit. I haven't ran various ones in 17", but I've driven many a car with Falkens fitted, and not a single one will grip at all. As for the 265/50 looking like tractors... Nope, still quite a small profile really... It's weird. I'll check them again, but I swear it said 265/50/R17

Bah! I wouldn't touch an old Cruiser. Used to have one here for dads old business. It didn't want to pull a 1.3tonne machine (About the weight of GTR, prob less) on a car trailer. Was absolutely hopeless on hills! Commodores can tow upto 2.2Tonne (new ones) If you want, you can buy mine cheaply, has manual gearbox, new, heavy duty clutch (good for towing) new brakes, new tyres. It's a VR V6 manual, and the 6 in Commodore and Falcon tow VERY well.

Man, I scream at my girlfriend EVERY time she goes to write on my paint work in the dirt!I know the car needs a clean, but FFS woman! DON'T DRAW IN MY DIRT! That and people putting hand prints on the windows!

Not if you have NOS bro! Just shoot it up! As for friday night, smoking Ceffys... Hmm... Maybe smoking a bit too much weed, as, if I remember correctly, friday night, the car had no turbo...

Put the screens back in (You're talking about the mesh yeah?) and then fix the cracks. Cracks will enable un metered air, and unfiltered air, to enter the system. Basically, the car can't tell how much air is actually getting to it! Even if you just get a roll of duct tape so you can drive to the shops to get the AFM cracks fixed.

I will run 265 on mine as soon as it's time to replace them. As for Falken having 255, not anymore, there largest tyre is now a 235. Don't ask me, I was only speaking to the reps. Also, Falken = THE SHITTEST tyre ever. Absolutely, ZERO traction! Get them slightly warm, and they walk all over the road too!

THrow the iridiums away personally... Heard of quite a few RBs misfiring and carrying on with iridiums in. Also, white/grey smoke, can also be oil from the turbo. Blue smoke is BURNT oil ( In combustion ) white/grey can be oil getting around the seals in the turbo and straight into the exhaust, so it's not actually burning, but vapourising. If you don't beleive me. Go heat some oil in a sauce pan (Don't get it explosively hot) but a fair bit hot, and watch the smoke that rises.

Vac leak.

Depends where I've been. Think about how hard your turbo is spinning, at 2800RPM down the freeway at 100km/h in 5th gear. When you hit full boost, at around 2800RPM (For me) the wastegate opens, dumping HEAPS of the exhaust AWAY from the turbo. Hence, it's not spinning as quick as it can be. Now, take the car off boost (Down the freeway) and ALL of the gasses are pumping through the turbo, spinning it so damn fast. Just the spinning there creates heat. Generally, when I drive, I don't even come on boost (When heading down the shops, to a friends, to visit people etc) but I still sit normally for 30seconds. If I've been on the freeway, and just gotten off freeway (I live about 800 metres from the freeway) I will generally sit for a minute or two. If I've been boosting. It depends under what circumstances (The odd hit through 1st/2nd, or whether I'm taking on some twisties constantly on and off boost) But, generally, I'm a minimum of 30 seconds. When I stick it in the garage after driving locally, I'll kill it straight away though (As it generally takes me 30seconds to pull up, unlock garage, get back in car, plus the amount of time that I'm slowly cruising (2nd/3rd gear, 10-20km/h up the back lane))

So just before you did the PFC it started mucking up. Just does it randomly? I'm putting money on a very small vacuum leak. I had one also, and mine just randomly stalled. Fixed the leak so far, and it's not stalling. (So far) Checked the bov? It could well be leaking where BOV joins intake piping. Does it like to stall if you do a slow gear change whilst cruising along?

No you don't. Trust me... LOL I can't be too smart, I finally finish school, and lock myself in for a minimum of 4 years at uni, and most likely going for 7. I SOOO should have taken a year off! As for studying. I'm meant to be studying for my uni maths right now... but I can't be arsed... Meh, I might go mow the lawn... Some time soon I will anyway.

You're running a 4" exhaust on an N/A 2.5L! Jeezus christ. When slowing down, you will find that the cylinder isn't getting complete combustion (Because of pressures between inlet manifold/cylinder/exhaust and basically, since the revs are up, but no huge volume of air turn over, the exhaust sucks out alot harder, and it also stops alot of the combustion from taking place inside the engine, and draws it out into the exhaust where it "pops" Normally reffered to as cackling. But if it pops like back firing, time for a tune (Although mine creates some MASSIVE back fires when using second gear to hold speed down steep hills (60km/h speed limit) and just tapping the throttle on and off slightly creates even bigger ones... Good way to get people off your ass...

I can tell you one thing, right now, it won't do as good as a Falcon/Commodore. And that's TOW. FWDs are useless at towing. ESPECIALLY if you get a bit of a trailer sway up. You need low down torque, in your higher gear. You don't want to be stuffing around jamming it back three gears, as by this time, you've lost 10-20km/h in speed, and just jack-knifed/spun your car/trailer combo. Basically, it's a FWD, that's not what the "Aussies" want. The main aussie market, want a big 6, or an 8, that's RWD, with MASSES of boot space, and not a problem slamming 5 adults in the car. I've never found a Camry/Magna that I can fit 5 adults in, without being REALLY uncomfortable. They just don't have the masses of back seat room that a Commodore has. Slalom driving. A RWD will MUNCH a FWD in slalom, day in, day out. You drive a slalom, with the throttle. Slalom is MEANT to be done right on the edge of going sideways. As for your comparisons. I'll put $20 down, that the guy driving the Ford, was told to make it look all out of shape, he would have had all of his electronics turnt off, and when he gets in the Toyota, told to make it look like a dream. It's called marketting, Toyota has sold you over. If you jump in that Ford, and hit the Slalom, and then jump in your Toyota, you'll find the Ford actually does it much better. And Toyota, can't be building engines all that well, if they're making 200KW from a supercharged engine. Holden and Ford are both just about doing this, with Normally Aspirated engines. Also Holden has 5 and 6 speed autos, and also the 6 speed manual. Is it just me, but no one has mentioned Toyota offering a manual...

You may want to get him to remove the engine then and get it acid dipped, to remove the f'ucking teflon, from his fu'cking oil galleries!

Being from Wollongong, I'd have to back up Mac Pass! I've done Kanga twice. Once in a Lancer VRX (Passenger) and then a second time in a 320KW GTR... That made me shit myself... The road from Wollongong up to Bald Hill isn't bad, except you need some speed to enjoy it, and hence, I no longer do in the line (I won't speed on it) But hit Bald Hill and continue up through Nasho, even just "cruising" with a bit of spirit into/out of corners... Hell fun. I don't find it all that hard on the car either, except for one off camber, under signposted corner... That one sweeps on just a little bit and gets the car un settled.

Since I've actually come from the SC and JC forums (From when I was going to do my Commodore up) I actually picked that nice bit of information up on Street Commodores. The V6 was a very last minute decision. Hence, why when holden got some more time (Between S1 and S2) they managed to change the engine design around a little bit. It isn't known by many, but there is technically 3 series of VN. Unfortunately, the first two series of VN, are classed as a Series one. The first was released. It was an absolute torque monster down low. Holden realised this after many complaints of people loosing traction. They quickly changed the head and cam design and changed the tune again, this is basically the "series 2", but is not recognised as an actual series. For my VR, I would have loved the VN S1 early model Cam and heads (And yes, they do bolt on although many people don't beleive it)

I beleive someone here totalled a GTR not too long ago and was parting it out to try and get some money back. Was a complete write off. Unable to be rebuilt at all...

Karting. Absolutely the most fun you can have without going insanely quick. Have you driven a go-kart yet? It's totally different to driving a car (Thrown around, bumps etc) If you're in Sydney/Wollongong area, head up to the picton race way.

GAH! Bullcrap and rubbish! You can fit any engine, to any car legally. Where the problem lies, is you need to get the engines emmissions up to which ever is newer. Hence, if you have an old school engine from a 1970s car, and drop it in a 2000 model car, you must get your old school engine, upto the emmission standards that were in place in 2000. Hence, many people say you can't drop an old engine in a new car, as it's much easier to put a newer engine in, and KNOW it will meet the emmisions since emmisions get tighter and tighter each year. Also, the engine bay in a VN/VP is actually setup for an RB25DET. Holden were originally going to run it, but as a last split second decision, dropped that idea and ran with the 3.8L Buick. It was that much of a split decision, VN Series 1 engines, still have bits and pieces that are tell tale signs the engine was designed for a FWD (Came out of a Buick FWD...) (Tell tale signs are locations of hoses, sensors, thermostat, etc)

Man, I did, Phys, Chem, 3 unit maths, stock english, IT and IPT last year in my HSC... I couldn't remember a thing during that schooling year of maths stuff, but now I'm at uni, doing shit 100times harder in maths, I don't have a problem recalling it. If I could go back and do 3 unit maths again for the HSC, I'd blitz it! Also, I was really relaxed into my exam, only "study" I did was like, the night before, that and a few previous math papers also. I didn't do too bad, and I'm on a huge salary for a person who just left work, and also doing first year uni...

Sam, can you explain why they are wrong? I don't understand how a profile can be "wrong" or do you mean wrong for keeping the speedo accurate? As so far, I've checked it against a mates car, with basically stock tyres, and both speedos read identical... Will the drop in size be that dramatic on my speedo reading also?

Slide: When the oil lines came back, did they have any traces of oil in them at all? Also, to those who don't play around much with metal working, to get those sorts of colours, in the metal takes a fair bit of extreme heat. Basically, zero lube. As Slide has said. When I saw that, I though "Oh shit that's horrid!" I couldn't get a piece of metal that blue if I wanted to by shoving it hard on a grinder! And also, all of the blue points, have been weakened, and are basically useless. Also, 9500 RPM, on an RB20... I wouldn't like to be trying those sorts of revs! No matter what had been done to it. Also, BBE's other thread. Car runs "fine" whilst he "drives" (Flogs the hell out of!) but the moment he gives it to his gf, who is most likely, a lot less of an insane driver (Hey, most chicks don't flog cars that hard!) a problem arises... I don't think it's the fault of his G/F, I think the car is slowly dieing. Also, you had an issue on the 20th of september, this year. Did you end up finding the cause? Or is the engine still missing above 7PSi? Oh hang on, the turbos gone huh? Maybe you had an oil starving problem! Slick 50 oil hey, man, I wouldn't put that shit near my car just purely because of the name of it! Sounds like a no name oil brand company. Most likely an extremely heavy weight oil also, making it take time to pump up to the turbo? Also, after some research on "Slick 50" read this, and I bet you will know why there's no oil in that turbo. "The basic ingredient is the same in most of these additives: 50 weight engine oil with standard additives. The magic ingredient in Slick 50, Liquid Ring, Matrix, QM1 and T-Plus from K-Mart is Polytetrafluoroethylene. Don't try to pronounce it: call it PTFE. But don't call it Teflon, which is what it is, because that is a registered trademark. Dupont, who invented Teflon, claims that "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines." But what do they know? They haven't seen the secret studies done by Petrolon (Slick 50). PTFE is a solid which is added to engine oil and coats the moving parts of the engine. However, such solids seem even more inclined to coat non-moving parts, like oil passages and filters. After all, if it can build up under the pressures and friction exerted on a cylinder wall, then it stands to reason it should build up even better in places with low pressures and virtually no friction." BBE, your oil passages are FULL of Teflon. Strip and acid dip the block is your fix!

No, they're complete and utter shit. Get on Street Commodores, or Just Commodores. The guys who are running those superchargers are getting some impressive figures on the dyno. But not ONE of them, can run a decent time. Guys with a tricked auto, cams, and exhaust, are running quicker times. Those superchargers are absolute rubbish, power is WAY too high up in the rev range ABSOLUTELY USELESS power in other words. As for turbo charging the Buick, VN - VR, beautiful engine for it. With a compression ratio of 8.5:1 they love some boost. Snort performance are selling bolt on kits for $5000 (Haven't yet seen them used overly as they're a new kit), with everything required, except the retune (Injectors, manifolds, turbos the lot) (There are also a few other places starting to make kits, for the same price and same pieces) The VS - VY engine is a bit of a different fish. Whilst still based on the same design. A lighter weight material was used to build it, and it also sits basically, at the minimum specs that it can. Hence, it is quite well known to punch a whole in the block at 12PSi. Whilst it's earlier buick 3.8L will run for a year or two on 12PSi without showing a single issue. With just a bolt on turbo kit, and running 12PSi down the throat of a buick, for $5000, you're going to be expecting around 200RWKW. When you get bored there, pull the heads off have them high flowed and ported, get a good size cam, and then send the intake manifold away to be smoother out. Whilst the heads are off, and cam is being done, upgrade the valve springs, seats, retainers. In the end, around $8000 with turbo kit, and top of the engine done, and you're going to be up near 300RWKW. Now, I currently own a VR V6 Commodore, (Hence, I know ALOT about them, I grew up with them) but I worked it out, VR Commodore, worth around $5000 at max, add $8000 to be pushing up at around a max of 300RWKW, with the bottom of the motor still standard (So a touch stressed) you've just spent $13 000. You still have standard crappy brakes, boat like suspension, and standard gearbox. Gearbox isn't such an issue with a manual (Clutch might be) but for an auto, it will be. So factor in another $2000 (MAX) there for a good shift kit, and heavy duty bands and clutches in the auto. But, now your car goes in a straight line, but won't turn. Now go and have a look in the for sale section at the price of R33 S1 Skylines. Same vintage car basically, (Touch newer). For a stocker, you may only be making 130-140RWKW, but the suspension is far superior, the brakes 10times better. And 200RWKW is only a FMIC, exhaust, boost controller and tune away. And hence, you can now figure out why my VR is for sale, and parked on the front road, whilst my R33 is now in the garage. Whilst a commodore can be made to go hella quick in a straight line, for not overly huge dollars in my opinion, you still have other limitations. The Commodore was built on a "family car budget" and hence, pieces in the drive line are NOT tricked up, and WILL need upgrading. No matter what you do to the Commodore, it will ALWAYS be a family car. But, for a simple answer, turbo kits start at $5 000, and then you need to start to fix things up as they break.

Can you give some symptoms of when it stalls? How it stalls (Does it sputter and cough and then die, or just CONK as if you turnt it off, or does it slowly drop the revs until it dies?) Conditions under which it does it? (Driving normal, after a hard hit on the throttle and then just releasing the throttle and putting clutch in?) When it's cold/warm? Only at night/day (Air temp variability) More info please.

I'm seconding the notion for straight cut 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. If it weren't for the fact of the amount of use 4th gear sees around the street, I'd also recommend it if it were to be used on the track. But since still street driven, do 1st, 2nd, 3rd straight cut, with synchro... Can't beat the whine of a straight cut gear!