MBS206

Change the pump... Or you'll likely regreg it in 12 months time if it's clunky...

I've never had an issue with Shannons. They've always been extremely quick in handling all of my claims. I've had two total losses through them (one at fault, one not at fault), and a few other claims.

No. I hate modern dashes. They're so stupidly bright all the time. It's like having a laptop in front of you. The car with my favourite dash is my LandCruiser, as it will go down so dim that you really can't see it. Absolutely brilliant for night time driving!

I'm with GTS, that's not an actual overheat issue. That's an electrical issue.

Good work. I will say, this line circled however, will potentially pool with oil, as it's going from high, to low, to high, before heading downwards.

Dad had a court case drag out with them from 1998 to 2004. He was in a not at fault accident, NRMA were the ones who covered the other person. They tried to blame his neck injuries on the fact he'd had an injury in 1981 on his extreme lower back where he slipped a single disc right near the bottom. Had been all cleared from that injury for years. This accident destroyed his shoulder, and f**ked a heap of discs in his neck, and he still has major problems with it to this day. Sarah's sister while on her L plates had a small Suzuki Alto, she had stopped to give way to an ambulance, and someone changed lanes behind her because there lane was also slowing, and rear ended her at 80km/h. (She had been stopped for a few seconds already too!). Car was completely f**kED. NRMA sent the vehicle around to 3 different workshops as they kept claiming "We believe it can be repaired, and not written off, we just need to find the correct workshop". It took 3 months, and a lot of arguing before they'd concede and wrote it and paid out. About two years later her sister had a Lancer, someone pulled out of a stop sign without stopping (in an 80 zone). Her sister swerved, hit the front of the other persons car (Instead of dead t-boning the drivers door), which ramped her Lancer, and made it roll multiple times down the road. It hit every panel on the way through. Her sister had slid her self out of the car, and remembers the ambos walking to the accident (They'd been sitting at a set of lights just down the road and witnessed it) and they were saying "Well, this ones going to be a fatality, no way you can walk away from that". Well, she did. And then NRMA sent two assessors out to look at the car, both of which wrote it off. They tried to send another assessor out, except a HUGE uproar was raised, and they FINALLY paid it out. That was on a car, that had damage to EVERY panel, you could see from 100m away the whole car was also twisted, roof bowed etc. Nah, we'll try get out of needing to payout on a $10,000 car... Her sister ended up with major shoulder reconstructive surgery being required, and was permanently limited in her ability to do her job as a nurse after that, as she can't (And was told before surgery too this would be guaranteed to happen) regain full strength in that shoulder. However, there was no choice to not have it, as she could barely use her arm, which was her dominant one, and was in near constant major pain. (And she's the type of person that would try and walk off a broken leg!) NRMA did the biggest run around on the personal injury side too for about 18 months, even to the point of trying to put 100% blame of the accident on Sarah's sister, even though the other driver admitted she didn't look, and didn't stop, and was charged by the police. Sarah used to have a Barina insured with them. It was a policy setup, paid all 12 months in advance. At the end of the 12 months, Sarah was living with me, I reviewed the renewal, it clearly stated "If you do nothing, your policy will cease on XYZ date". We did nothing, as we moved her insurance in with all of mine and I was with Shannons. We find out 10 months later, NRMA decided, because he DAD had a car insurance policy at the same address as what Sarah's mailing address was (Garaged address had been changed), that they'd put Sarah's (What should have been non existent policy) onto her Dad's month to month charges on his credit card. We had to jump through hoops, to get a refund. They didn't care that we actually found the letter that said "If you do nothing, your policy will cease" they made us prove we had NON COMPULSORY insurance else where before they'd issue the refund, and after they agreed to the refund, it still took another 6 weeks and 3 more phone calls for them to actually process it. They also had two insurance claims from storm damage, and they were an absolute cluster to get resolved as well (one vehicle, one house). Some how, up until about 3 years ago, her parents were still loyal to NRMA too, and we were like "How the hell are you so loyal to staying with them, when other places are so much cheaper, and they've f**ked you over every time you've ever had to make a claim?"

I can tell you now, good luck if you're with NRMA (NSW equiv of vis RACV and QLD RACQ). Because NRMA are freaking horrendous to deal with for claims, even with a normal road car. Not to mention even more BS when they're in the wrong and didn't cancel a policy etc when they were meant to and make you jump through hoops for things.

Because race car.

Probably why it's more on their trade site. I didn't check if it was on the normal site. At least trade/mechanics will have an oil disposal point.

Freight would be a killer to QLD wouldn't it? It's front and rears yeah?

Well... New things have arrived... And now I need to really dig into the design of the power steering reservoir.

I just want to double check this.... When you measured PTV, you measured it with the new roller rockers installed too yes? I kind of read the above as "we did PTV, then moved on to roller rockers..." I'm sure all is fine, but my brain is tweaking...

Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can. I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.

At 30cm long, you only need 80lbs... Which isn't hard to put that much weight in. Just start to stand on it, but not full force. Even a light weight size 6 lady can do it. If I stood on, I'd get them to about 190ft-lb... And all Id need to do is... Stand...

It's going to be gregged when it spins a bearing (it's in a Skyline, it's inevitable) and he takes out that super close windage tray 😛 Greg, did you say you changed the roller rocker RATIO or just the type you're using?

One of the big things people mess up to, is the location of the ports on the sump. Add them in one spot, and the movement of everything in the crankcase makes it hard for oil to drain down there. Place it in another area, and it aids it. Same sort of issue with the cam covers. One side of drain holes is copping it hard from air movement pushing up. Also, if your catch can has a 2.3L capacity, and you've only ever drained 600ml of oil out of the catchcan, yet the catch cans breather has puked oil everywhere, fact of the matter is, your catch can is doing a shit job of oil/air separation, and a massive improvement alone would just be in a better catchcan design.

Realistically, if you're trying to give airflow up from the sump, to the breathers, and then that excess will vent through the catchcan, skip the cam covers, and take sump straight to the catch can.

How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....

Do a compression test, and a bore scope on the cylinder that lost parts of the plug. Chances are, that cylinder isn't so happy anymore...

Update from today; Hard work was completed today behind a computer... Ha ha Hardlines for new fuel lines ordered, and fittings for it to connect up too. Banjo fittings for owner steer ordered too, will be AN fittings. Ordered all the weld on fittings I need to build the PS reservoir too. Only things I'll need left for power steer is a couple of off the shelf fittings for the pump, and to build 3 lines.

Are there any wiring looms that weren't swapped? Were all the dash looms changed etc?

Or get a guy in his early fiftys to do it. A single good "oof" and about two cracks from his lower back is about the right tightness...

It's all about reducing the overall output. Reduce the source of it, you have wayyyy less to deal with in every other step and trick you play with. It's why something like a modern vehicle, so VW, Audi etc, there's thousands of tables for the ECU to calculate what it should be doing with the engine. Why would you NOT reduce emissions the most effective way possible, when it has very minimal tradeoff, AND manufacturers are always struggling to meet the current standards.

Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful... Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.

Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement. As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.