MBS206

Compression check. Also, oil is not conductive.

Why a larger exhaust then inlet?

Could be waste gates stuck open Boost leak Turbo not spooling properly. Blocked IC pipe Collapsed cat.

Don't wanna get your blouse dirty Nancy?

Or the motor didn't have any water in it, to heat up, to get the thermo to open... If the thermo is stuck shut, the pipe that flows from pump to thermo will go rock hard. And if you take the radiator cap off, let it warm up, and then turn it off, it'll normally spew coolant back out (Actually EJECT IT outta the cap opening)

Start listening to your wife. Stop thinking.

Veyron = 407km/h proven on Top Gear.

WogsRus, there's nothing "wrong" with your engine. Although, compression should be at 165PSi from all research and testing I've done. So you've just got an even wearing engine.

Gear ratios as well... Set 1st to 5th rather close for huge acceleration, once you hit top gear, it's just long legged to rev like abitch!

Tiniest bit of blow by. About average for a good condition engine of it's age. Wait until you hit 70PSi and get the nice rough idle, then you know what low comp is...

Way to bump a thread bat man.

To check for broken welds, at the point it normally snaps, is best done with the dash partly out. Pull the stereo surround out. Then remove the speedo/tacho cluster. You'll be able to see the top of the fire wall now. Sit in the drivers seat and put your foot on the clutch. Did anything visible through the top just move? If it did, that's most likely the broken part, as it normally doesn't move up there... I snapped mine 3 weeks ago and had to reweld it.

Stock intercooler is a restrictive piece of junk that doesn't really cool anything down (Good at heat soaking) So really, no, I wouldn't be calling it safe. With exhaust, FMIC, boost and tune, the car will be TOTALLY different for you. FMIC kit is like $300 - $400 Fit yourself. Get a boost controller, (Those $22 ones are great!) Then get a second hand SAFC2 and tune it. All for under $1100 if you do stuff yourself (Dyno it to tune it though)

If you have thoughts of putting a FMIC on, do it before you do the SAFC, you'll only have to retune afterwards otherwise. Also, boost it up before you get it tuned (Boost to a happy level, around 10PSi should be plenty) Then tune it.

When you're hung like GTST, you don't need support...

Missfire when? At idle? Full throttle low rpm Full throttle high rpm low rpm low throttle? Where, what how? I've had engines "miss" at idle due to low compression on a cylinder.

Standard

FMIC Suspension/Brakes

I call happy Dyno If making 200RWKW, you should be able to push a flat 13.0 at around 110MPh... Head to the drags, see what the black top dyno says you really have.

I'm still yet to see valid evidence of how no BOV actually damages a turbo.

I've been told unleaded burns that colour that those two valves are, but I've never pulled a head off to tell.

it sounds like simon and PM-R33 have two different problems Simon sounds like his just can't get enough air around the turbo. So it boosts up some more. PM-R33 just sounds like pure boost creep.

Get some one to hold the revs up and turn the air con on. Whilst they do that, watch the compressor. Does it suddenly stop spinning?

For the lack of kick, are you sure it's a boost leak? If it were leaking, it'd be chewing through the fuel. Your VCT may have become disabled some how (Bad electrics/plug off) My car at the moment, doesn't have VCT turning on until 2250 RPM, and you can really, REALLY feel it kick in, and when you watch the boost guage, as it kicks in, boost climbs dramatically (When cruising, it'll sit at atmospheric, as soon as the VCT closes it'll jump to 2 - 3PSi or there abouts.

What state are you in?