MBS206

I know as much as you guys know on them now. They're hydraulic lifters. Cannon is still here, and I'm in Wollongong

PM price on engine, and loom please.

It can be reenabled, but will require you to do some minor work. IE, open the oil gallery up again. Will be hopefully getting pics tonight (Depending on when I finish)

Have you crushed a fuel line somewhere? Has it been tuned?

Cams, from what I was told, are out of a GTR, they're aftermarket too. I went back, found all the messages from the guy I bought them from, and they're 252 duration, 10.2 lift. This is what I was told on them:

Bump Only thing sold is the TV screen.

Why not change the diff ratio? Whilst you won't be accelerating AS quick, you won't be running out of puff either. On the standard cam, I personally don't find all that much power above 6500 compared to if I upshift at 6500RPM. You need to remember, when you put your power through the different gear ratios, you get a set amount of torque at the rear wheels, and alot of the time (Nearly all the time in stock cams) it's more beneficial to shift a few hundred RPM before the standard redline to get maximum acceleration...

Higher gears I find generally bring boost on earlier (If say accelerating from 2000RPM) As the turbo has more time to accelerate. But I generally find that it spikes around a bit more in the lower gears as the boost controller has less time to react to boost spikes. It also depends on how the boost controller is setup.

Pic of Cannon PM'd As for the head, I actually do still have it, as the sale fell through. I'm waiting to hear back from someone, as to how much they're going to offer. But PM me through an offer if interested.

Bump! Negotiable on price.

Personally, I'd aim at the JZA80 if you want a car to thrash around. The 2J is a damn near bullet proof motor, plus larger capacity. (Think if you want 3.0L in the R34 you need to build a custom motor) Plus get one with the V160, you have a gearbox, that's being proven to handle 1000HP. (700RWKW) and keep running day in, day out. Sexy looks (Personaly, I like the JZA80 over the R34) Plus you get all the coolness of having the ORIGINAL TF&TF car... Plus if you ask someone how much there car is retail you'll be able to smoke em... Oh, and $15G over night from Japan, it'll decimate all... If you didn't realise, the last few lines were just a shit stir (After the sexy looks line) Personally, I'd go the JZA80, but from what I've seen, the R34 has more rear leg room.

If you like Mustangs Go find yourself a good condition Toyota RA28.

The advans are 17" And rears are 9.5" wide, and front is 8.5 or 9. Can't remember which.

Price Drop $13 500

As you go up the gears, your torque that was there in 1st and second, is still the same at the engine, but the taller gears for 3rd, 4th and 5th, give more RPM rather then torque at the wheels. Hence, feels slower. Also, get a proper boost guage, don't trust the stock one.

The rule used to be. Get new plugs and gap to 0.8 I'm starting to think how some other people are. Stuff doing close plug gaps. Go buy some new coils. That's the true issue. Regapping plugs is just hiding your issue.

The pod filter cleaning kit, on oil based filters, puts more oil INTO the air filter, hence, when you start the car up, it'll suck more oil onto the AFM. You need a dry pod filter, or, even easier, run a paper panel filter. Gets rid of one defect if it's not boxed.

Bump Cannon and DVD player still available.

Bump Open to offers. I want this to go fairly soon to start up my next project.

Do you have a pod filter? Sounds like the AFM is covered in oil from the pod filter. Grab some CO electrical cleaner, spray the AFM whilst it's OFF the car, (Disconnected from car) let it dry (Take a few minutes) drop it back in, see how she goes.

They don't have to have the 90 or 100 limit on them. I asked that question before. Also, they need to be displayed on the front or rear of the vehicle. Not directly along side the number plate. And it's illegal to drill/cut a number plate to (It's called defacing!) I've been printing off alot of legislation to keep in my car too.

Price Drop $13 950

Bumping it back

No power? Off the mark? I have FMIC, Clutch/light flywheel Full exhaust Boost controller Tuned And I STRUGGLE to get off the line. For one reason. It's called WHEEL SPIN! I light up at the drop of a hat off the mark. The RB20 struggles off the mark COMPARED to an RB25. But the RB25 is no slug whilst off boost.

Check CAS timing Retarded timing = retarded driving I was told not long ago. Also helped the EXACT same symptom I had in my Supra. Had a few degrees nocked out, and it drove like shit.