MBS206

Please be aware, the standard nissan oil pressure guage reads in KG/cm^2 not PSi.

Heh... You tell people to "drive a peace of shit" I do mate. I drive a 1988 Nissan Navara, ball joints shot, rust, springs dead in the seat. I drive this thing EVERY day. It's my daily hack. Oh, and I'm 19, and I own a 1994 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t also, as well as a 1994 VR Manual Commodore. Seriously, a Skyline is a HUGELY costly car to run. Mine costs me $273 every two weeks, BEFORE I put rego on the car, BEFORE I put tyres on the car BEFORE I service the car, BEFORE I drive the car. So lets see, tyres are looking at going to cost me around $300 EACH (4 of them, $1200 a year. Rego +Green slip = $1000, $200 servicing cost, $2800 insurance so each year, that's another $2400, so that's another $200 each fortnight... So currently, I'm looking at $473 every two weeks, and hey, I still haven't even STARTED or DRIVEN the car... Can you honestly afford that mate? $236 every week, plus around $70 in fuel... So, can you afford $300 a week, (More for you with insurance) to run the car? I don't think so. I work, full time, in an engineering role, and still have issues with making everything work out (Fuel, rego, insurance, tyres, servicing, my phone, having money left to go out, buying food for the week.) Seriously, think about it financially... I shot myself in the foot really when I bought my skyline, the costs are ASTRONOMICAL! Buy a cheaper to run car, if you only want a looker, get a looker, buy a Commodore or something, Say $9000 on the commodore, $1500 on mags, $3000 on a bodykit. You have there, for $14500 a car that looks good, has just as much go as an N/A R33, and will cost you about $1500 each year to insure, and use less petrol, cheaper tyres, etc. Just think about it logically.

SydneyKid, would you not agree that lowering the rear, more then the front will induce understeer. Every car I've found, that if you drop the rear more then the front, you induce understeer. Would it be more advisable to raise the rear back to it's original position and leave the front DOWN the 5mm from original... So hence, the guy has made the setup worse by is lowering abilities. The ride height front to rear, and overall is as important to the setup as is the toe/camber/caster afterall.

Yeah, the hobby shops in aust are very expensive, considering for diffs transmissions etc, you can have the price and have it at your front door (shipping included) but coming from a hobby shop is hella spensive... But when people are just getting into it, alot of the time it's better to buy local.

Injectors maxing out is my theory.

If it's something like a T28, it would be WAY too small for a 350Chev. I was looking at putting twin T28s on a 231CI (For comparison) was a 3.8L motor, and they would have been WAY too small. Even in twins. Small block I'm assuming would be something like a 253 small block. Look at something like the twin turbo setups from the RB26DETT

Light surface rust, as mentioned, is typical on rotors, one or two applications of the brake pedal (Not even hard) will remove it very quickly. The time when you need to put in new pads/rotors is when the pads wear down that they need replacing (No material left), usually get the rotors machined at this point, unless there is a chunk missing from them, or cracks are apparent, at which point, new ones can be bought and fitted. Each time you change your pads, it is worthwhile having your rotors machined at basically ANY brake shop. There is no use fitting new rotors, to old pads, nor new pads to old rotors, as they will chew each other out worse.

Put a new fuse in. Simple.

There's a place in Newcastle that sells them from memory, and most reputable Hobby Shops (RC Hobby shops) also sell them I'm pretty sure.

ChadR33: Try running Shells 98RON fuel. I threw a tank of BP Ultimate in mine, and it did nothing but misfire, fart cough, popped a flame or two also (When using gears to hold me back) and I got pretty shit economy from it. I have so far found the Shell fuel to be the best (Have run Caltex, BP, and now Shell) Also, someone on here mentioned, if you keep the revs below around 2500RPM when accelerating, fuel consumption drops majorly, but get much above 3000RPM, and the fuel will be used the same basically as if you rev out to like 5500RPM each gear. Hence, I cruise mine, keep the revs down, barely touch the throttle when accelerating. So far this tank (nearly 200KM) I've only hit boost once, and that was only 5PSi (My "low" boost is around 7-9PSi) and that was coming down a short freeway onramp from like 20km/h, and needing to get up to 100km/h to merge into traffic. Normally I sit along way in vacuum even when accelerating (5mmHg is normally my "fast" accelerating vacuum)

I'm running 265 on the rear of mine, and 235 on the front. I get 380km to 45L if I'm just cruising and not caining the living shit out of it. I did 350km to 50L the other week when I was pushing the car for most of the tank. I get very reasonable fuel economy I find, and I'm running fair size tyres. Mind you, most people running tyres that are 17" end up having one of there single tyres, weighing as much as all 4 of mine (Light weight Rims FTW!)

He wasn't pumping throttle I guess.

Rear wobble is most likely a mm or two of toe out, or quite a few mm toe in. Mine used to shake exactly the same. Found out the car was running 3mm rear toe in. And for my all 4 tyres aligned, and suspension/driveline checked, it cost me $50... Don't know why on earth people think 4WS costs more :S My wheel alignment specialist reckons the newer and more "intricate" they get, the easier they are to set up.

Never once heard of an insurance company going for records for stamp duty at the RTA. And you insure it for an "Agreed Value" not what you paid.

Yes it will work, but I'd also be going a paper/cardboard gasket on all joins.

No idea on my actual limit. Have a 3" system, at idle, fair bit quieter then my mates. And I'm running a cannon. Although, sounds like a jet turbine when it hits 4500RPM at full boost...

Throw a high flow turbo on. Computer Injectors. Have some fun...

Engine temp sensor working properly to the ECU?

If it isn't remapped properly, for the injection pulsewidth at start up, it won't start. Throw the old injectors in, and see if it starts up. DO NOT drive it like this, as it'll be VERY lean.

Adjust your tune, for start up pulsewidth only, take the MS injector pulsewidth and multiply it by 0.49 This is the new number you should now enter. If this doesn't start the car, revert to old number (Write the old number down) I don't know what ECU you're running, so I can't even attempt to offer you some advice on how to alter it.

You should also have it setup so you still need the key in the ign barrel to start it (So, when ign is in "on" position, take the 12V from the ign barrel in "On" position to feed as a 12V feed to the back of the button) That way, when the key is off, car can't start.

The tune hasn't been adjusted for starting. $20 says it needs adjusting to start. The fuel map may have been altered, but the problem you are having is the cranking pulsewidth. What was your old injector size, and what's the new injector size?

The engine won't crank?

Ever seen the remains of a FWD, towing a "small" caravan and having it hit with a slight cross wind. It ain't pretty. RWD is the better way to tow. As to moving huge large "things" why wouldn't large tip trucks etc used in mines be FWD instead of RWD if it were better? Jump on a hill (wet grass does it easier) and try to drag your large heavy bin up there, you'll slip so easily. Now try and push it up. Much easier.

Get a sub, wack it in the back, when you pull up at the drags, starting pumping out the songs by Ludacris from The fast and furious...