MBS206

I'm running 265 on the rear of mine, and 235 on the front. I get 380km to 45L if I'm just cruising and not caining the living shit out of it. I did 350km to 50L the other week when I was pushing the car for most of the tank. I get very reasonable fuel economy I find, and I'm running fair size tyres. Mind you, most people running tyres that are 17" end up having one of there single tyres, weighing as much as all 4 of mine (Light weight Rims FTW!)

He wasn't pumping throttle I guess.

Rear wobble is most likely a mm or two of toe out, or quite a few mm toe in. Mine used to shake exactly the same. Found out the car was running 3mm rear toe in. And for my all 4 tyres aligned, and suspension/driveline checked, it cost me $50... Don't know why on earth people think 4WS costs more :S My wheel alignment specialist reckons the newer and more "intricate" they get, the easier they are to set up.

Never once heard of an insurance company going for records for stamp duty at the RTA. And you insure it for an "Agreed Value" not what you paid.

Yes it will work, but I'd also be going a paper/cardboard gasket on all joins.

No idea on my actual limit. Have a 3" system, at idle, fair bit quieter then my mates. And I'm running a cannon. Although, sounds like a jet turbine when it hits 4500RPM at full boost...

Throw a high flow turbo on. Computer Injectors. Have some fun...

Engine temp sensor working properly to the ECU?

If it isn't remapped properly, for the injection pulsewidth at start up, it won't start. Throw the old injectors in, and see if it starts up. DO NOT drive it like this, as it'll be VERY lean.

Adjust your tune, for start up pulsewidth only, take the MS injector pulsewidth and multiply it by 0.49 This is the new number you should now enter. If this doesn't start the car, revert to old number (Write the old number down) I don't know what ECU you're running, so I can't even attempt to offer you some advice on how to alter it.

You should also have it setup so you still need the key in the ign barrel to start it (So, when ign is in "on" position, take the 12V from the ign barrel in "On" position to feed as a 12V feed to the back of the button) That way, when the key is off, car can't start.

The tune hasn't been adjusted for starting. $20 says it needs adjusting to start. The fuel map may have been altered, but the problem you are having is the cranking pulsewidth. What was your old injector size, and what's the new injector size?

The engine won't crank?

Ever seen the remains of a FWD, towing a "small" caravan and having it hit with a slight cross wind. It ain't pretty. RWD is the better way to tow. As to moving huge large "things" why wouldn't large tip trucks etc used in mines be FWD instead of RWD if it were better? Jump on a hill (wet grass does it easier) and try to drag your large heavy bin up there, you'll slip so easily. Now try and push it up. Much easier.

Get a sub, wack it in the back, when you pull up at the drags, starting pumping out the songs by Ludacris from The fast and furious...

How abuot stop destroying the environment and killing future generations. Whilst you're on the road, even if only 10% of the time, you risk I beleive it's a $15 000 or $25 000 fine. Might as well be prepared to sell the car to pay it.

Run a normal exhaust. You still need a catalytic convertor for legalities...

Guys, I'll vouch for the fact the phones are 100% legit. They are NOT stolen at all.

I've actually heard of people running times. Then stripping stereo etc out (But this included subs etc) Taking out spare wheel etc etc. And running slower times. They just didn't seem to manage the traction the weight gave them off the mark.

I've seen people drive "easily" in there R33s, and come up to neutral pressure/slight boost. When I cruise, I'm at around 10mm hg when accelerating to a cruise speed. I barely touch the throttle when cruising. Other people "cruise" just as "slow" and use alot more throttle.

A flat spot will just show that one side is slightly heavier, add weight to the other side. Problem still happens that the tyre goes round round round FLAT round round round FLAT. Each time it hits a flat, it "hops"/"shakes" Major badness!

I've decided what I want, but I have to wait until after chrissy to order...

I'd be looking at driving style then.

I'd be upgrading both personally. Do fuel pump, and injectors. Although, if you can hook a pressure guage up to the fuel line, and measure the pressure when the inj duty cycly hits 100% If the pressure drops, throw in a new pump, if pressure stays up, throw in a new set of injectors. AFM, time to upgrade by the sound of that.

The sound deadening is where the main gain will be, I'd be guessing around 100-200KG in sound deadening!