MBS206

Bahahaha... SC... ROFL I shitted around ALL of yr 7-10. Walked out with two Band6, two band 4, and a band 3 (The band 3 was 1% off a band 4) ROFL... I suck MAJORLY at english, and I was like, so hating it, and I still managed to pull out and basically beat nearly EVERYONE in my school at english... ROFL... Oh, and I didn't study for it either. SC is piss easy. HSC that one needs a little bit of study to do well in. My uni exam, that I have on friday, if I don't get off here I WILL fail...

When you car fires up, does it sound like it's popping and missing kind of thing? When i first start my R33 GTS-t in the morning, (Or first time that day) I have to pump the throttle quite a few times, bring the revs up above 2500RPM, and then let it settle down and idle on its own. If I try to turn the key, it cranks over perfect, won't fire, hit key again, it cranks, goes to fire, then dies, crank it again, and half the time it repeats and fires then dies, or it'll fire, sit there missing and farting at 800RPM, then "clears" and brings the revs right up to 1400RPM. And takes about 30-60 seconds, then idles down to 1100RPM, then takes about another 3-4 minutes to drop its idle to 750RPM where it's set too... I might check my engine temp sensor once the car cools down.

How many litres are you using? I do around 380KM to 45Litres (And the needle is pretty damn low!) I've never wanted to go any further, as I never knew how much fuel and R33 held until just then. But with my economy... I'm in the 11L/100km gallery.

If it's on a stock car, you will only hit 3PSi.

No need for one IMO. If porsche don't bother to run one on this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LtkSCaE0EM then why bother. Plus: Every International Group C sports car to 1991 NO BOV Every F1 car from 1979 to 1988 NO BOV Every Indy car from 1970 to NOW NO BOV DJR Group A Sierra till its last races NO BOV And out there, in the great wide world, Nissan claim to only run the BOV, to reduce noise. (Flutter is louder then plumb back BOV) Plus, hey, CA18DET, no BOV. Remember, car manuafacturers build there cars to LAST a LONG time, and pass noise/pollution restrictions. Think about, a company like Porsche, would run a BOV IF it could damage the compressor. And hey, even Nissan don't run them on the CA18DET...

The dual mass flywheel is in VT onwards. VS pre is all single mass. Hence why clutch change in VS = around $500 all fitted and VT onwards alot of the time is $1500 onwards.

Okay, just went and washed the car, and took a VERY close note on what size they are. Sizes:- Front: Falken ZIEX ZE326 235/40ZR17 Rear: Falken FK451 265/40ZR17 Don't ask me what the "Z" stands for. So as for FK451 being a good touring tyre. THEY'RE UTTER SHIT on my car. And you can't blame my alignment either. I got it aligned 2 weeks ago incase it was out. Which it was. Badly. Stupid previous owners!

R31: 260-270 isn't too bad of a figure. I'd most likely be very happy with that. As I also have alot of suspension tweaking to do. As for dropping it on a dyno, it has not yet managed to see one yet (I've only owned it around a month and a touch, hence I want to learn it more at the power level that it is at) The ECU is already decided on, and will be running an Adaptronic. Coilpacks are also currently Split Fires. Also has button clutch, and 5KG flywheel. From memory (And what I've seen under the hood) it's already running a catchcan. I'm still only fairly new to the Skyline scene.

Are you talking stock for stock? (GTS-t VS VR Wagon V6) As I'd say no. Being that I own a VR Manual, V6, and it's hell slower. But if you're talking turbo VR, then that's totally different. And sorry, I did mean the RB30ET. For some reason I was thinking RB25DET (Prob as that's what I've been playing with lately)

They have 2 back up sensors to help correct bits and pieces. MAP and TPS.

Heya all... At the moment, I'm sorting out all of the plans for where my R33 GTS-t is going to head. At the moment, it's running a plazmaman FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, and a boost controller (Supposedly 7/11PSi, but I'm starting to not trust it) Now, the car will be used on the road (As a weekend car) and will also be used on the track (Oran park, Wakefield, and EC) I want to end up out there joining SAU on club days. Now, within 12months, I want to up the performance of my car. Right now, "it's quick enough" (I'd like it quicker, except I need to learn this level of power first) Now, since I plan to run it on the race track, I need alot of midrange power, not just out right top end for drag racing. What I intend to end up running, will be: Better injectors (A must have) fuel pump. ECU (Already lined up, will be happening soon ) Turbo Cams. Now, that's about all in the way of power really. Unless I blow the motor up. So, what I really want to know is: What sort of turbo should I run for response of being basically on boost (Near full boost) before 3400RPM (I hit full boost at the moment at 2800RPM... And I like it!) I also want to turn the wick up, and have some decentish power. I'm aiming at around 290-300RWKW (With a shit load of torque over mid range) once the mods are on. Is this possible, whilst retaining mid range? I'd even be happy with 270RWKW at the moment. Planning on "high boost" running of around 18/19PSi for track days, and probably drop it back to around 10-15PSi for daily road use. Edit: Might as well ask this here also. When on the freeway, at 90km/h, sits at around 2700RPM, plant the foot, and it flys out to full boost VERY quickly. and hits 100km/h with in that same time. Now, when I hit 100km/h, if I back off to cruise again, and within 2-3 seconds plant it again, the car takes FOREVER to reach full boost again. Is this an issue with waste gate or something more serious?

Use your hand. Once you put your hand over it. You'll feel it.

The leak will be on the motor side of the throttle body also. No need to really check the IC piping.

Fix the current engine up. The front cut replacement may have spun bearings, the works. You never know. Rebuild is the best bet.

Ahh, sorry about that then So, with a jump in 40KW, on a 200KW engine, they must be running what 3PSI of boost? What did they bolt to it? The SC14 Supercharger? As for "Tiptronic" how about we say "Slow reacting *manual* driven auto"? Tiptronic = piece of pooh!

Is it for a 32 or 33?

Go down to a tyre shop, and ask to have a look at the new Falken range. As for Falken tyres being shit. I haven't ran various ones in 17", but I've driven many a car with Falkens fitted, and not a single one will grip at all. As for the 265/50 looking like tractors... Nope, still quite a small profile really... It's weird. I'll check them again, but I swear it said 265/50/R17

Bah! I wouldn't touch an old Cruiser. Used to have one here for dads old business. It didn't want to pull a 1.3tonne machine (About the weight of GTR, prob less) on a car trailer. Was absolutely hopeless on hills! Commodores can tow upto 2.2Tonne (new ones) If you want, you can buy mine cheaply, has manual gearbox, new, heavy duty clutch (good for towing) new brakes, new tyres. It's a VR V6 manual, and the 6 in Commodore and Falcon tow VERY well.

Man, I scream at my girlfriend EVERY time she goes to write on my paint work in the dirt!I know the car needs a clean, but FFS woman! DON'T DRAW IN MY DIRT! That and people putting hand prints on the windows!

Not if you have NOS bro! Just shoot it up! As for friday night, smoking Ceffys... Hmm... Maybe smoking a bit too much weed, as, if I remember correctly, friday night, the car had no turbo...

Put the screens back in (You're talking about the mesh yeah?) and then fix the cracks. Cracks will enable un metered air, and unfiltered air, to enter the system. Basically, the car can't tell how much air is actually getting to it! Even if you just get a roll of duct tape so you can drive to the shops to get the AFM cracks fixed.

I will run 265 on mine as soon as it's time to replace them. As for Falken having 255, not anymore, there largest tyre is now a 235. Don't ask me, I was only speaking to the reps. Also, Falken = THE SHITTEST tyre ever. Absolutely, ZERO traction! Get them slightly warm, and they walk all over the road too!

THrow the iridiums away personally... Heard of quite a few RBs misfiring and carrying on with iridiums in. Also, white/grey smoke, can also be oil from the turbo. Blue smoke is BURNT oil ( In combustion ) white/grey can be oil getting around the seals in the turbo and straight into the exhaust, so it's not actually burning, but vapourising. If you don't beleive me. Go heat some oil in a sauce pan (Don't get it explosively hot) but a fair bit hot, and watch the smoke that rises.

Vac leak.

Depends where I've been. Think about how hard your turbo is spinning, at 2800RPM down the freeway at 100km/h in 5th gear. When you hit full boost, at around 2800RPM (For me) the wastegate opens, dumping HEAPS of the exhaust AWAY from the turbo. Hence, it's not spinning as quick as it can be. Now, take the car off boost (Down the freeway) and ALL of the gasses are pumping through the turbo, spinning it so damn fast. Just the spinning there creates heat. Generally, when I drive, I don't even come on boost (When heading down the shops, to a friends, to visit people etc) but I still sit normally for 30seconds. If I've been on the freeway, and just gotten off freeway (I live about 800 metres from the freeway) I will generally sit for a minute or two. If I've been boosting. It depends under what circumstances (The odd hit through 1st/2nd, or whether I'm taking on some twisties constantly on and off boost) But, generally, I'm a minimum of 30 seconds. When I stick it in the garage after driving locally, I'll kill it straight away though (As it generally takes me 30seconds to pull up, unlock garage, get back in car, plus the amount of time that I'm slowly cruising (2nd/3rd gear, 10-20km/h up the back lane))