MBS206

The only evidence, I've been told of, for not wanting to run over 12PSi on a 'Line turbo, is the ceramic wheel. Do the GTR still run ceramic wheels on there turbos? The best way to decide on your boost level, is on the dyno, you can see what increase you get, and usually people dial in the most boost they can, before power doesn't seem to increase... Unless of course the turbo is likely to fail (From delamination etc)

Boost cut... Caused when the turbo supplies too much boost for the stock ECU to handle. Well, not so much handle, but for the ECU to scream "I WON'T LET YOU HURT THE MOTOR!" Basically, to avoid it, turn the boost down a touch.

Um, if you run a single turbo system at 14PSi, the turbo sees 14PSi. If you run a twin turbo system at 14PSi, each turbo STILL sees 14PSi... You don't halve it. What gets halved, is the CFM through each turbo. Two TOTALLY different things.

Leadfoot, have a look at your ADRs, if the battery is in the boot, the boot must be sealed from the cabin, yes, because Hydrogen is explosive, and it's also a LEAD acid battery... And I never said anything about poisoning in my first post. But the main part of the ADR stating that, is the fact of hydrogen gas being released.

Drop a standard head on it. Seriously. Most likely who ever ported the head has stuffed it up. Either that, or get the head flow tested. Porting is a pure art.

Something just isn't breathing... Are the cams dialled in properly (In the correct position) they may be opening and closing too early or late. Head might not be flowing adequately either. Turbo may be out of efficiency. Did you try winding the turbo down to see how much lower you can get boost without loosing much power?

Seriously... VN Series 1 Commodore through to a series 2 VS Commodore... I haev a VR, S2 in manual, (Trying to sell it at the moment) whilst it is NO competition for my GTS-t, it eats up FTOs, eats up Celicas, eats up basically everything else you lot have listed that a new P-plater can legally drive. Commodores, and Falcons, whilst a land barge, have this great aussie thing called Torque... It wins races. And you can't modify your car at all, except for looks. Even diff gear changes, from what the RTA has told me, is a no-no. Can't do engine swaps either (Even if engine is standard) Seriously, get a manual commodore. Absolutely nothing like a skyline, (And I mean NOTHING!) but they'll basically kill all of the P-plater legal 4 and 6 cylinders on the road.

I'm fairly new to the RB engines, but in alot of other engines, it'd either indicate turbo running out (Although this would equate to a pressure drop, which you haven't mentioned) or most likely the heads/cam aren't flowing enough.

I'm sorry, but how can a wiring diagram, for a car, help a theif? I can understand if it's the wiring diagram for the alarm, but isn't the person asking for the diagram for the car? In which case, people need these daily for doing thinks like ECU installs. (Ones that aren't plug and play!)

As for the commodore thing. I have a commo at the moment (For sale) the sub and amp package I have in it, when set in a certain spot, sounds like utter shit. I was ALWAYS told by people, put the sub hard against the boot, firing at the guys behind you, you will effectively rebound the sound against the wave heading out the back of the boot. But hey... This didn't work quite right for me. I had to actually move the sub about 20CM back from this point, to get the best volume. Now, when sitting in the car, opening the boot, causes me to actually loose bass volume, Why? I'm not getting the addition of sound waves. As for folding down the back seat, doesn't really do a shit load either, except prevent the whole car from shaking... (Makes a slightly cleaner bass note) It's all about the acoustics in the car (As noted before) the BEST way to find where to mount the sub perfectly, is to actually position it in the boot in box, shut the car (As if you were driving) and have a listen to a song. Then move the sub, until you find the best position for your style of music and your sub/box combo. As for removing the metal part behind the seat, it's actually illegal, as the boot in an R33 HAS to be sealed from the cabin, due to the fact that the battery is in the boot (Release of hydrogen gas under recharging conditions)

I have the same issue in my R33... It's been like it since I bought it (Around 2 weeks ago) the internal clock doesn't work, all of the fuses are A-okay and it has an aftermarket headunit in it.

Pull the sub out, see how it's all wired up... As for loosening up a sub, you're meant to play them at a lower volume for a few days, to allow them to loosen and NOT blow the cone.

It just can't deliver the fuel required. Hence injectors open further for more fuel!

Nope, still illegal.

Okay, my Dad is now screaming that there IS 3 cars here. I can't afford to run all 3 cars, so hence, dropping asking price again. Now at $5000

Orig edited by me... As said before, insurance is dependant on others, and don't EVER accept the first price the company tells you. They can go better.

Got sun roof? Also, same questions Boosted32 had.

Please people, I need to sell this car. I can't keep 3 cars at my house, my father is screaming about the idea of a 3rd car being here!

Car sales link doesn't work. What state are you in?

For Sale: 1994 VR Acclaim Colour: White Engine: 3.8Litre Transmission: Manual Wheels & tyres: Standard rims, P6000 Tyres (Brand new) Rego: TJB-585 with 4 and a half months rego (I think it's 4 months.) State: NSW Odometer reading: 250 000 The overall vehicle condition: Average I bought the car around 4 months ago, and had some big plans for it. But, I've decided the amount I was GOING to spend, is better spent elsewhere (Investing etc) Car was bought, with a slightly slipping automatic gearbox. The whole car was then quickly converted to manual and as such has: Brand new heavy duty clutch (max of 2500KM!) Brand new thrust bearing Brand new pressure plate Freshly machined flywheel. Gearbox just serviced. I have also fitted new brakes all around, with brand new rotors front and rear New pads all around (1300KM on these at MOST) There is a brand new clutch cable sitting with it as a spare. Spare Buick V6 Motor (Cost etc will be worked out with buyer) 4L60E auto Conversion kit. Including auto starter. (Cost etc worked out with buyer) Interior is pretty clean, with a few stains in the carpet (There when I bought it) but I have managed to remove some of them (As a testing of a product) and I will be continuing to remove the other stains. Okay, the car has a Kenwood tape deck up front (I didn't have my CD player at the time) Standard front and rear speakers Has a 12" Kicker subwoofer in the boot, with a 200Watt RMS Schnieder amp. (99% sure they're coming out, but can work that out.) Brand new interior mirror. Has a brand new set of P6000 all around Spare tyre is there, and all good. Central locking works brilliantly. Immobiliser works. Everything works on it. With all driving around town - Economy down in the 11-12L/100km Freeway driving only - Haven't full done, but around 8-9L/100KM from last nights highway trip experience. Pictures: Click Here Car has: ABS, IRS, Air bag (Driver side only), Power steering, Air cond, Electric Mirrors Reason for sale: I bought an R33 GTS-t If you go to contact me on my mobile, please SMS me first, as alot of the time, I cannot answer a phone call, but will reply to an SMS as soon as possible. Price: $ 5000 ONO Contact name: Matthew Contact Number: 0406 962 347 Email: [email protected]

It's all in the restriction. If you have a restrictive exhaust, they're said to now flow at 100% the capability. A 2" system on a 2L car say, may be able to flow 10L/second of air. But another 2" system, on another 2L car (Both the same type of car, everything identical, except for the exhaust) may only be able to flow 9.5L/second, this is where you get a restriction, and you end up with a back pressure in the exhaust (If you actually do some VERY indepth reading on how to design an exhaust, back pressure you want equal to zero, or even a vacuum (Which won't happen!) Therefore, the second exhaust system, although 2", is said not to have 100% flow through it. It is restrictive. When the guys I deal with, have been building exhausts for 30+ years, they know every little trick, they even research new items for various things, and new designs. I'll stick with them. They know how each exhaust system should be setup on what engine, and depending on the variables within the engine, they can slightly alter how the system should be setup. The design is done through theory, and then tested in practice through gas flow benches (And hey, we're dealing with gasses here, not fluid!), through the dyno, and also on the track when the systems are initially designed. And then the varying factors they know how to alter and how far. Remember, you can't alter systems all that much, as pipes come in set sizes. As for different materials, a stainless steel system gives alot nice resonance not over that of mild steel, but then again, if you ever get to hear a copper exhaust system (Illegal), they sound the BEST!!!

I know, this thread had no replys for like 2 weeks, you've probably forgotten about it. But if you remove the BOV all together (And block all the holes up) it'll go "chuff chuff chuff" as the compressor stalls. It WON'T hurt your turbo like heaps of people beleive. Old turbos used to die from it (The first designed ones) but with modern machining practices, that's a thing of the past. If you want to hear what it sounds like, rip the hose off that goes from the inlet manifold, to the stock BOV off, and block it with your finger, with the engine running, give the car a good flick of the revs (You can do it from in bonnet) and you'll hear the new noise.

Any of the race tracks run them Either ring Oran Park and find out who does theres, or ring Eastern Creek for theres, or again, try at Wakefield. Ask them who runs them at the track, and what the contact details are.

Have you got some more pics of down the drivers side that show it a little bit better, one of the passenger side, and then another showing the back of the car with the boot down?

VN Items are KNOWN to fail. Even the VN boys upgrade them, even on a stock engine. They're a poorly designed coil pack. If you had researched them a bit, you could have found this out. The VP S2 onwards packs are a MUCH better design.