MBS206

Your issue with pressure sensing, is time delay. Sensors take time. The ECU takes time to cut. The engine takes time to spin down. All that time = bearing damage possible or actually done. The accusump being a mechanical system however, reacts very very quickly. It's the one thing you pickup very quickly I control systems. Mechanical systems typically react wayyyy quicker... On something like oil starvation, it's best to protect yourself in first line of defence against damage with something like accusump than ECU cuts. ECU cuts = last line of defence...

Manual swap time?

Where's all the oil ending up? It's always been the age old "stuck in the head", but there's only so much volume up there before in effect you're pumping it back down... Or out to a catch can... or is this effectively the way it's managed now? Put a big sump on it, so you can fill the head with oil, and have it "drain" (be pushed) back down, hence, big pump, fill head, run big sump so you end up with enough in it? IE, the oil not draining issue still isn't quite fixed (in my opinion) but rather worked around with the big sump and big pump...

Oh I get WHY people remove it, I'm saying more "when people remove it, this is why we see oil temps increasing more" I'm genuinely curious, with no way for myself to validate it, IF the rear of the engine for example, is getting cooling done a bit more in oils favour, compared to the front (eg, front of engine, 99% of heat control is likely coolant, where as coolant may not be flowing as well in the rear, and hence coolant may now be only contributing to 95% of the heat control in the back of the engine). Hence when you remove the heat exchanger, you see oil temps climb It would be quite interesting to drill and tap the water galleries front and rear and look at coolant temps through the whole motor. Though there are many reasons why the results on this would be skewed and possibly show nothing, even if my hypothesis is true.

This comes back to something I've said in another thread. It really seems to me, the water flow in the block/head isn't working 100% in the engine how we all think it is (slower flow in the back), that quite possibly, the oil is stripping excess heat from areas of the engine, and then using the factory oil/heat exchanger to move that heat into the coolant. This is likely why so many high powered cars that have the oil/coolant exchanger removed, end up needing to run an oil cooler when being used for more than basic driving. Also possibly why engines with it removed and no oil cooler still have issues later on with bearings/oil. Again, this is just my hypothesis. But if you're saying coolant temps have dropped by removing it, then that heat has to be staying somewhere, likely in your oil, so you really do want an oil cooler. But it also means another area of your engine is too cold now as coolant is now 10 degrees cooler than designed to run.

It's what we had on dads 55Chev (And still do have) for the last 20 odd years. Not thin cotton sheets, but good thick soft material. Was multiple pieces stitched together. Worked great, and still is working great Nothing against someone wanting to spend $300, just the option that I'd go with is the other way. If you've already given it a crack, and not liking it, definitely go the route of the nice big made one. I just like to keep my money to spend on extra things, ha ha!

Go to spotlight, buy some super soft material. Done! Probably cost you $80.

Are you going to have an accurate oil temperature in your face on the dashboard, AND do you know what a good oil temperature is to maintain? If either of the above is NO, then I'd add one. The reason I state this, I assume, by "weekend street drives" you're not meaning hard parking at a coffee shop, and intend to probably take it through some twisty runs etc with friends. While not as hard as a track day on the vehicle, it could still start to push oil temps up. If you don't know what a good oil temp is, and/or you don't have that information glaring at you in the face, (OR the ECU doesn't have that info to start culling your power etc) then you should run one, or risk the death of your bearings. I've seen a few people even do bearings with oil surge on twisty mountain runs too, even if not hard on the power, just having engine revs up higher can cause lots of oil up top, and then going round a corner, you can pick up air, and bye bye bearings

I was very aware of them using the car's audio system to bring an "exhaust note" into the cabin. BMW years ago started doing things with the M3, like a small acoustic tube off the exhaust, aimed at the firewall to make the exhaust sound louder in the car, without making the exhaust actually louder. This speakers in the exhaust thing though is totally weird, and I nominate everyone to use peer pressure to get the speakers in the exhaust hooked up to a car stereo... You know, two 2Ohm speakers in Series is a 4Ohm speaker, and now you've got one channel for a car stereo Go on! YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO! Imagine rolling into something like a Cars and Coffee meet and getting to Rick Roll everyone with your exhaust DO IT DO IT DO IT! As Nike would say... Just Do It!

You should totally rewire those speakers to play some good awful song at pedestrians

You know E85 isn't meant to go in the 710 hole right? 😛

FYP :D

Hire trailers, I've seen / had some interesting ones. It's why I only put the hire ones behind the Cruiser. At least then I've got a lot of weight up front towing it if things go awry or the brakes be stupid! As to the going to the track/Motorsport event and not giving it a full send... That's not in my vocabulary... Even when I go out going "just take it easy", the stupid demon takes over once the loud pedal goes down Only time I take it a "little" easier is when I'm driving someone else's car... Ha ha

Oh I thought we were just going to use your build thread for chatting Brett

Just hire a trailer for the few times you go to the track... Also, those new cars, all great and fast, until one sensor goes on the fritz. Was just helping the guys near us prep for the 6 hour at Bathurst. Had issues with TCS wanting to be on permanently (and kicked in). New yaw sensor as it had crapped out, that fixed the fault codes, but issue still present. Final fix, bleed the brakes... It decided it was upset with brake pressure when TCS was trying to "control the car"... And that was in a car already 14 years old but full of euro electronics... All those modules are great, until they start doing stupid things...

Should have bought Reese's from skid control, a quick buff and polish and I'm sure the charring marks would come out (I heard it was stolen and lit ablaze )

Yeah I nearly did the same at one point, I got confused before I posted earlier ha ha ha

Nekminit, O2 sensor has failed and new plugs end up fouled

Guy across from my work races (just did 12hour and doing 6hour at Bathurst) uses PowerTorque in Brendale, and work has used another place in Seventeen Mile Rocks but I can't think of their name off the top of my head sorry.

Did you mix up pictures Brett? The OPs photo is missing stuff, another photo was posted with all parts showing, but that person saying parts missing.

Looking at the photo posted by OP, the pad retaining pins aren't going through the pads to begin with. Those pins also look super gunked up. They need to come out and be cleaned on a wire wheel. It does look like one pad is removed, and that may be why the pad retaining pins aren't through the pad on the other side.

Interesting on the need to add more fuel, as it started running lean with better spark. In my mind, having incomplete burn, means not all of the fuel has been burned, which means you'll have excess oxygen in the exhaust, and an O2 will read lean. This is why misfires end up reading lean, even if it's from excess fuel. I'm genuinely curious now as to why with better spark it's showing leaner every where, as I've always understood it to be the other way around. I could see it getting a bit leaner as it's coming onto boost, as it might be coming on a bit earlier with a nicer more complete burn, but this would only show if the last coils were unable to do the job properly ever, and hence that section of map never got reached to be tuned, but across the board needing more has me baffled :S

Install a louder exhaust. Don't press the middle pedal. Problem solved...

Interesting read... I know my R33 has a couple of spots of rust (very minor, mainly boot floor, and a spot in the roof). Towers etc were all good 2 years ago when it was given a rough spray... And I kept this car < 2km from the beach for 6 years straight, it has spent another 4 years sitting in a paddock, including going 1.8m under water in a 2017 flood... I'm just going to not look too closely in these areas moving forward... Ah well, I guess it'd be a good reason to tube chassis the front end

I have a dog trainer sitting beside me. She says that's actually not a hard thing and she'd take that over teaching tech to stubborn people who don't get it. 😛