MBS206

As I understand, and Dose can confirm, the nozzle is just a spray nozzle, purely mechanical item. Kind of like the nozzles for a garden misting system. Then you turn the pump on to pump water in. Pretty darn hard for the pumps to then "jam on" with the way electronics are. More likely if it "jammed on" it'll be through the electronics driver failing internally with a short, and then typically they've shorted that way that they end up with power everywhere, and bam, fuse blows, and now pump is off within a split second anyway.

If you're using it as an additional thing to clean the intake, and still doing all the normal maintenance to the car, and the WMI isn't being used as something to allow you to push the engine harder, than the only way a clogged nozzle will kill your engine is if you neglect maintenance on it... Which really, that'd happen even if you didn't have a clogged nozzle.

Yep, there's some stuff that isn't hard. At the moment we're feeling a financial pinch, so even dropping $100 on a few little things is hard to justify. But my some of my new Deutsch DT series plugs arrived today (without ever spending a cent... ) so the plan is to attempt to finish the motor wiring (extend what I need to, get O2 hooked up) and get the wiring for the lights all done, as well as the fuel pump. I think I even have some spare 4awg and the correct crimps to make a few earth straps from. That gets all the wiring done, I can prove it all works, and the wrap the looms and pin them where I want them. From there, jobs I can move onto is looking at mounting both seats back in, and mounting the passenger harness. I'll also review thoroughly the factory fuel lines (they'd been under water without the ends covered, and DID gunk up, so I need to see if they're okay, or I have to run new hard line. I also need to spend some time this weekend replacing bushes in a friend's Patrol, and rewiring his lights in the bullbar. So really, Skyline wiring, and then working on the Patrol is probably this weekend's end of the line jobs. While I think of it, does anyone know how the power steering valve in the R33 racks work, is it an analogue voltage, or 12V PWM etc?

I bet we get a full review by mid next summer on how well they work, and if the shit job of getting on the roof is worth it! I'm quite intrigued on if they will do anything, I've never really looked into it. That said Neil, for you sun issue, I have seen some super promising stuff on a paint you can make up, and your surface temps end up BELOW ambient air temp! Some really funky physics going on in it! Lastly, while you're on your ladder, can swap the tubes in my lights in the garage, and plug the third bay in for me? I hate ladders just as much as you do! So far... I'm still working with less than ideal light

The text in that post just makes me think of survivor bias...

Yeah I'll very likely get the O2 in. It's only the stock Falcon ECU, so O2 is only narrowband. I just need to run the cables across and out into the engine bay. Likely to do it when my new plugs arrive (in the post). I'll run headlight looms at the same time. How far off driveable... Unfortunately, a fair bit. Ha ha Rough Todo to make it the most bare for "driving" as a loose term... Get a tail shaft made Fuel lines, and fuel pump into tank. bleed clutch Proper driveable: the above 3 items. brake master in, everything bled. new pads, likely new rotors needed too. modify alloy radiator, and then plumb it up. air intake seats in harness in new shocks speed sensor put headlights actually in. make new reo bar front bar back on. Make the part of the radiator support that's been cut out, a bolt in item, OR weld it back in. fully weld the exhaust up (it's only tacked in place to make sure I'm fully happy with it, plan to move engine a few mm up, so won't fully weld until after that.) then there's still going to be other things that will crop up I'm guessing. But just keep plodding through things.

Well, not much had happened with the R33 since it's last update, until this weekend. I made the time to stop, and do a heap of wiring work. Engine is pretty much wired up now. Things remaining in wiring: - run main wiring to the fuel pump, (coil side of relay done). - wire radiator fan in, once I buy a thermo fan. - extend wires for butterly to change short/long runners (engine will be happy without it done, but I'd lose low down). - run main power line for fusebox to battery. - put terminals on the earth lines. - earth the motor to chassis. From there, things remaining for wiring: - wire reverse lights in, finish wiring brake lights in (part done). - wire in headlights. In addition, I'm getting some black Lexan laser cut, where the fuse panel and relay block are cable tied, is roughly where they'll end up on the acrylic, in a nice easy to reach, and easy to see position. The OBD2 plug will be in the acrylic panel too. The loom will end up braid wrapped once I've proven it is all good. There's a couple of wires tied up in a bunch, being for O2 and speed input. Speed will be sorted later, O2 I might hook up, or run open loop for now.

Of course they can't do it safely. BMW drivers don't know how to operate indicators, so no one would know what's going on! 😮

They're like a dime a dozen at JustJap aren't they? 😛

What I find interesting, is that after all these years, Neil doesn't know by just picking up a part where exactly it goes ... I think it's time we send him for some Dementia testing... But a few questions... We were talking about light in your Garage thread... For more light in the engine bay, why don't you remove the bonnet? Even when working on the hoist, I've always found it easier to not need to bend myself (Or light) around the bonnet. Curious why you haven't removed it (From the pics on last page it was still on while on hoist) Your fuel filter in your pic on the last page looks mounted in place, had you moved it earlier, or is it an optical illusion and it's not mounted there, it's just on a piece of fuel hose and the fuel filter is holding the bracket in place? (If it is mounted down there, I'm curious why you're wanting to move it back, and why you had moved it in the first place) It dawned on me while looking at the recent car on hoist photos, you don't have the factory radiator support upright in place, instead it looks like a piece of RHS. Am I correct in assuming you ditched the factory one to save weight, and better air flow through the front? If you did, why did you not just ditch the RHS as well that's in there? Do you have something mounted to it? The only benefit I can see structurally is to stop the rad support for up/down movement, where as the factory one is a triangle shape which gives for some "side to side" strength too... But in all, that whole front apron is pretty darn strong for side to side and up and down typically. The only other thing that pops into my head, those nice discs that I believe you stole from Mel's art's and craft supply all those years ago that you've bolted and (I believe silasticed in place) to cover where things like AC goes through the firewall by factory. Did you think about getting the panel beater to fill those holes in with metal to smooth it, and then paint it white to look more flush (Yes, looks on a race car! ha ha ha!) or are you more staying on the lines of "I'm happy with how they look and function, plus it means someone someday can re-fit the factory gear if they chose to" ?

How long do you think you'll get from a single? 1.5months as it's doing two turbos work, or 12 months instead HAvent read entire thread, was it the actual turbo's you've had that keep failing?

Hey Brett, The port just under the turbo flange, is that for measuring back pressure?

Why is it sacrificing an OBD2 port? Just get an OBD2 Y Cable. It can leave a factory looking OBD2 port where it normally would be, and leave an OBD2 cable plugged in elsewhere. Secondly, you can splice into the CANBus cables if you want to. There are also some low cost options out there that can listen to CAN signals, and then trigger IO ports that you wire to. The Ford guys use these a lot. One of them can also do it the other way of you flick a switch, and it'll send specific CAN messages. Lets the Ford guys do things like get all the dashboard, and light integrations working properly.

Dollar limits for myself in projects basis is: spend lots of small amounts over time, never add them up. Therefore cost feels small. Stop when it's not fun.

651, good number

The new car mods will be primarily centred on how to stop the TCS and Stability system working. 😛

Don't get dogs, or cats, or children, or a GF then

Cheers Brett!

Which Astra pump do you use? Is there a certain year range, and do you end up buying from a wrecker and rebuilding, or is someone selling them new (with Holden now goneskies)

COVID happened. Some people died. Even more people went batshit insane paying silly money for all sorts of things!

Check the drain plugs aren't blocked on the lights mark. It might be trapping the air in there. Also, at 150,000km on the clock, time to put it on blocks. That's your half million dollar retirement package in a couple more years

Thinking through this, I think you might find light on the uprights annoying to work with as when you're under the car looking up, you're going to potentially have bright light shining into your peripheral making it harder to see up under the car in specific circumstances. It may be different for others, but I find I can typically see better in my garage if I close my roller door, as the light coming in the door is from a focused point, if that point is partly shining through somewhere I'm trying to look at, I can't see the darker area. IE, looking down through my engine bay, but light is shining from the floor up. I kind of liken what happens to me like when you're trying to take a photo of something dark, but there's a bright light source in the frame as well. For use when working under the car, it might be better to have lights along the floor, shining upwards from each side so the light is "behind you" at all times, rather than potentially level with. I've also found in the last year, the head mounted torches and be a real blessing when using a hoist.

Dog box like above won't be happening, it's entirely unsuitable for our situation. It's 3x German Shepherd Dogs. As I said, it'll be setup with failsafe redundancies for the whole thing. But the vehicle could sit in the sun for quite a few hours, and then dog will be able to get out, and being able to run them on point is a major benefit over a dog that is already hot, and then gets out into a 35 degree day. Will have ability for air flow (fanned, and vented for when moving), as well as fully insulated, major electronic backups on the system, and ability if need be for doors on it to auto open (without releasing pups) for air flow in event of internal temp increases. Big issue is one of our boys is getting older and HATES the heat, and one of the others won't show signs of wearing out until he needs to be at the vets as he's about to die (never give up attitude), except he can get a bit of brain fade and turn off his listening ears. So keeping him cool when it's a stupid hot day up here is pretty paramount for what he does. The sorting out an easy to install AC is the only difficult part for me at the moment. Though may if need be look to re-engineer an AC from an EV.

This won't be a cheap setup. Will be spending a lot to build it correctly, and with fail safes in it. Not putting my children at risk. Had just been searching online and not finding anything that looked proper useful. Looking for an electric compressor, and then the other bits and pieces that I can lay out where I need.

Got any good hints/tips for an AC system to run from a battery. To be installed into a custom back on a dual cab ute. Will be for travelling with multiple dogs in, and when out at trials and work times. So need to keep it cold to keep them comfortable. Will be ran on big lithium batteries.