MBS206

I was hoping Australians utter hatred for cheap Chinese shit would do it. But our love for outright cheap shit keeps winning. But yes, them, MGs etc, they're so woefully built, with such low quality stuff on them. Even things like how the crash bars are welded in isn't right. Like Blind Freddy would lay a better, more accurate weld! But people are lapping that shit up. It really shows, you truly can produce utter shit, and as long as it kind of performs the functions, people will buy it!

Wanna know one of the huge dollar stolen parts rings running around at the moment? LDV vehicles! So hard to get parts for an LDV the crooks have figured it out, steal them, strip them, and are making bank, as lots of places now have LDVs and they want them fixed!

You forgot that one guy who buys a car, swears he'll leave it stock, modifies it, and sells it 6 months later for a new stock daily...

What're you studying to backflip yourself towards?

And a JDM VIN on an ADM shell will trigger raised eyebrows even quicker too!

Those controllers don't do anything, except change how the signal appears to the controller. So for example, to make it more sporty, where you first put a little bit of throttle in, it instead will send a higher impulse, and then taper it down towards the target. In theory, you can learn to do what the throttle controller does, but it feels unnatural, for example a normal take off at 15% throttle input in sport mode on Duncans setup, might actually tell the ECU, give it 75% throttle for 0.5 seconds, and then drop to 25% for a second then tailor it back to 20% throttle and maintain that. Compared with the normal throttle might have gone "I'll give you 50% of what you asked for, then half a second later I'll give you 50% more of what you're asking compared to what you have, and then in the end I might let you have 13% in total. At the same time, engine setups like when cruising on the highway, while on light throttle may have the actual throttle 70% open, and playing massively with variable valve timing. A small change in your throttle request will see the motor just mildly tweaking torque request by adjust cams every so slightly, but give it a sudden gut full quickly, it'll bring the cams back into a performance mode ready to go, and then the throttle to follow the position of the pedal, which gives a lot more response. Hence the controller giving a much bigger input to the ECU then back it off, makes the throttle overall feel more responsive. Peak power etc overall though is unchanged. And as Duncan has said, this is why they have to make a different controller mapping typically per make/model as they are all doing different things etc.

I need to clarify something. The weird actual idle of the engine, AND the RPM gauge being really weird and wonky both started happening at exactly the same time? If so, I'm going against both of you above, and saying they're likely related somehow. Unfortunately, the video was filmed in psychopath mode (portrait), which makes it next to impossible to get much detail from it even at full screen size. My bet is that if the gauge has started going weird, AND the engine went rough, both at the same time, they're related, and it'll be a weird electrical issues. Most likely something back feeding / putting noise in a circuit that shouldn't be there. Quite possibly, a connection going wrong, or a power feed being really wack/out of sorts.

Without better pictures, it won't be possible for anyone to work it out further than we have. Start measuring, EVERYTHING. Thickness of flywheel, and all around it. You want to know is if everything parallel. If from the face of the pressure plate (that bolts to the flywheel) if it is parallel to the pressure plate face, then something is NOT parallel or equal elsewhere. Or you've bent the shit out of the fingers in the pressure plate.

0.5L sounds like nothing. But when it's a 25% increase in displacement, to a newer engine platform, and getting some speedy bits, it should be good! Compared to stock cams for the 2.5L, are these new cams mainly more lift, or more duration too (shifting the torque curve into higher RPM)?

I guess that could be debated too... Per se against an F1 car? But then, are we just wanting the best all rounder, hence then we need something that could do rally, in dirt and snow, so the F1 car is gone again... So many variables before you can find "the best". That said, I'd love me a Porsche GT3...

Normally fingers bent or broken will cause the above. Has this pressure plate been used before? Was the gearbox left hanging from the clutch while removing the gearbox?

My guess is, cheap rods, came from a site selling lots of cheap things, and likely a lot of knock off stuff. I get doing a cheap build, but I don't get doing a huge dollar build, and then skimping on something even like the rods, and likely the bolts to go with it, especially if heaps of stuff had to be fabricated!

Recirc valve goes from plumbed in just before the throttle body, and returns to between the AFM and turbo. You'll want a vacuum source too for it from the inlet manifold.

Interesting that it has 2 to the USB stick. Are the ones to the USB stick different? Or labelled anything at all? Telstra 4G is Band 28 is the long range one you want, it's 700mHz. I'm trying to do some reading on the Cel-Fi stuff, but I can't find any decent info online that makes me feel comfortable being able to work out the sort of antennas we could get away to swapping it over to. The antennas I'm starting to do some stuff with at work, are a transparent antenna. They're designed to stick onto the window. Which means you wouldn't even have the antenna outside the car. Volkswagen have just started using the exact same types of antennas on some of their new cars (And from the same antenna manufacturer). But, RF stuff is a bit of a dark art some days, and getting it wrong in your car could make for a terrible waste of money trying to swap antennas :S

I'm not going to lie Duncan, Saturday and Sunday were pretty rough days. The sort of work I was doing would previously have ended up with me spending about an hour and a half chatting with Neil. Firstly about something I had a question about, and then both of us rambling off on tangents. I think how Neil did things, and his attitude to getting it done is helping me in part to get this stuff done. Then I can actually do the things I enjoy more easily

So what I hear from Rob and Mark is, Matt needs to stay the hell away from your places when you choose to do cleanups, for fear my hoarding will get worse, as Ill likely find things to suit some of the projects I want to build... As for ditching stuff like Mark does, I wish I could do it so easily mate, but lots of my spares are for the R33 and I'm slightly attached to them... However, I was staring at the pile of subs, 2 for the car, 2 for a home audio system and thinking I'll likely just ditch those... That's. A lot of space back... I must hurry up and finish the Subaru, and then the skyline... That's probably get some space back... But my main take away is, other than big plastic tubs, and some sort of categorising what you have in each, no one has found a good solution, that takes up the minimal amount of space possible? And Rob, I've been wanting a mezzanine, and have been tempted to put one in, but I'm borderline not enough height, and secondly, I hate heights! (No good spot for stairs, so it'd either be fold up stairs, or a ladder, of which I hate ladders and can't carry the bigger stuff up).

@Duncan for the antennas for the 4G booster, send me a photo of the connection type it uses, and what sort of bands it picks up on, and a photo of the existing antenna itself. I have some interesting ones coming into work soon that may suit your needs really really well AND stop you drilling holes in the roof.

Yours would only have been worse, because I've spent 2 weeks cleaning mine. And yet it barely looks any different... Ha ha ha The work bench is unusable as things are stacked so high on it, as it down each walk way between the cars. And on one of them. And inside the other... And under one of them... These days when working in the garage, I need to roll the Subaru out. Because the "workshop" portion is just so full of stuff... To do anything means to move lots of stuff... But I recently got rid of a full rack of fish tanks, and a few more. Then have started just throwing shit that's actual rubbish. And trying to sort everything else! Ha ha ha Needing to move the Lathe into its proper spot, and then move all the other gear like the press, compressors, welding trolleys. And let's not talk about the camping gear... I want to get rid of it, the GF wants to go camping... I think I'm getting to old to want to camp these days Oh, I also evicted a few things, like the motorbike outside ages ago too! Ha ha ha This is all in a 6x9

The query here, is how do you arrange all of your spares and other random items? And then, what do you do, if you think you're hitting that point where you won't need them any more? So, but of background; I've had lots of different cars, and tinkered with lots of cars over the last 18 odd years. In addition, I have a habit of ending up with things, I'll now never need again. For example, for the R33, I've got a side mount intercooler, and a GTR front mount cooler, as well as random items like aftermarket cam gears, starter motors, power steering pumps, and even things as random as the really small fuse box, that sits right beside the battery. So firstly, I've got a lot of stuff right there, that I'll never need again, as I'm not playing street/stock cars. So, I probably need to clear some items out, and at the same time, I hate Facebook Market place and dealing with people. So other than throwing this stuff out, how do you guys deal with it? Do you have a similar stash of parts hidden away taking up space? So then the next part is, I have lots of stuff like aluminium pipe to make inlets from, lots and lots of electrical stuff too for making custom wiring looms, and so many random things. How do you guys organise all of your stuff? I've moved a lot, and lots of my stuff was just in random cardboard and plastic boxes, that were starting to fall apart! Lots of it was stacked on shelves in said boxes, and I've just gotten new shelving, and I'm re arranging the garage to fit some new (to me) large tools in. That means I'm presently opening boxes, being ruthless and ditching the trash (I think about 30 cables that would suit a TV/Desktop PC went in the bin alone!). However, now I've got parts laying in the middle of the garage floor while I work out how to store them on shelves. The shelves are all high, so if I lay all the parts out nicely on shelving, I lose heaps of space. But if I shove them all back in boxes, I'm back to square one! So what mysterious and creative storage solutions have you come up with? That is other than making the garage bigger, and buying more shelving, and pushing this problem back another 5 to 10 years... Oh, and lots of things I have, are for projects I want to do one day, or am slowly doing too... The 80HDs can make life hard sometimes... So more storage space probably isn't the best idea... Let's add another random question too, how much space is being taken up in your workshop/garage from parts you bought years ago, and still haven't fitted? Example, I have a brand new Safari Snorkel for the LandCruiser, and a box of RedArc gauges. Since November of 2016...

Does this mean now that it doesn't need to meet Targa spec you can ditch the twins, and crank up the power?

Bahahaha oh that makes sense! Ha ha ha

@Duncan a meter will read continuity, so long as resistance is below a certain threshold. For example, on a headlight globe, you'll probably manage to get your MM to beep for continuity. I always go with measuring resistance. I've had some digital Multimeters beep continuity even with a 100ohm load. Now as for that wire that should be undamaged earthing out... I really really don't want to say it, as I hope it's not the case... Do you happen to have any evidence of mice/rats around?

Feel free to not take the advice and knowledge of those who've been playing with these cars and engines specifically for about 20 years EACH. But we've all been there, done that. What you've just dribbled is total nonsense about not needing a retune, or no one in the USA being able to tune an RB. It seems you're just here for someone to tell you your bad ideas are good. For that, you're on the wrong platform.

Did you happen to read anything above anyone has said? Especially things like "it's going to need a complete retune"? IE, none of this will be safe to run once you plug it all in. And then secondly, the fact that pretty much none of your wiring will reach, and likely the throttle cable won't reach etc.

Lots of this, and in older cars, AC is generally controlled by the AC knobs and programming, and the ECU reacts to the load. Modern cars, the ECU controls kicking the AC on/off at the AC systems request so it can be prepared for the engagement/disengagement.