MBS206

In the mechanics world, I think most fail to learn these days as they learn at places like a dealership, which primarily replace huge chunks, and roll the dice of "throw parts at it" as the computer does a lot of the diagnostics for them / it's the troubleshooting flow diagram from the manufacturer. Then there's the issue of, some people can't put aside personality, and work on different communication styles. But seriously, go meet 50 apprentice mechanics, most think they're top shit and don't want to listen, and at least half of the 50 are also stoned... The tradies teaching don't have the patience or time to put up with the shit. It's one thing, on a quick thought, that banning all the shit like hazing, and being al PC, is that the young ones don't know to stop being a smart aleck, and just listen, as they've got nothing to fear, except being called the wrong pronoun

Had to go back and check this wasn't me ranting about engineering... The part that is even more saddening, is that most teaching degrees, full time, is about 12 hours a week of contact. Write a few fluffy essays and be done with it. I always struggled at uni when I first tried a million years ago. Because it was just shit thrown at you, with no application. However, I learned a lot on my own, by wanting to do things for me, and always wanting to know the what and how. 6 years ago I started back at Uni part time. I still have 9 subjects left after this semester as I work full time (actually more hours than full time). What I see today, is the workload is so full on for the kids, they learn how to regurgitate information, but not a single one of them knows how to apply that information, and use it as knowledge. In reality, Uni gives you the basics, and is MEANT to teach you how to then be able to learn on your own (question, research, and apply). When I finish my degree, I'll be qualified to do the job I'm already doing. The reason I'm sticking with it, is so if for what ever reason I ever leave my current workplace, someone else will hire me as I have the piece of paper. Most companies, you can have 25 years hands on experience. Don't have that piece of paper from 25 years ago? Well, you're not getting hired. I have a guy on my team, he has a Double Degree in Maths and Science, and a Degree in Comp Science/Engineering. Really awesome hard worker. BUT... I can't just give him a problem and let him figure it out. EVERYTHING has to be meticulously scoped, thought out, and put together, and then he'll just write the code for me. I may as well use ChatGPT by that point in time! Flipside is, I'm having a conversation with the company owner on how to do something new with our products to solve a specific problem, while keeping our system as generic as possible (IE, we don't have ten different firmwares, and you choose which one to load to do a specific job, and we dont do custom modules in our software for specific customers), and while having this active conversation, I've already devised four different ways to solve it for proof of concept, and the pros and cons of each method! Anyone else listening is still trying to understand the problem... Those people still listening are the ones on paper that are "smarter than me"... The struggle is definitely real finding ANYONE half decent. Hence, I understand why small workshops struggle. Most people don't have the passion, or drive, to do jobs the boss wants to offload. Nor do they understand / care about the cost of their own f**kups. Hence why workshops will continue to be shit at housekeeping things like responding to emails, or understanding technology and making it work for them.

Wheel bearings. I've had two cars do it like that. One was a Honda Jazz. Horrible just loud deep noise, exactly as you describe, sounds like road noise but 10 to 20 times louder. Second was our Subaru Liberty GTB. Exact same thing. The part that made this one harder to diagnose. The wheel wobble didn't exist. "Sealed" bearings that dried out, and got silly loud. Way to identify, is have someone stand on road side, drive past at about 60. Turn around, go back the other way. Side that's louder is your bearing issue. Diffs typically have a higher pitch noise than the sound of road noise. So far had 3 wheel bearings go on 3 different cars, only one went whomp whomp whomp like Duncan said. Funny part, it was a Ford Falcon that did it! Bahahaha

One of the biggest problems for these shops to grow, is the boss is the one who knows how to do it all. Finding someone who is even remotely competent, and wanting to work, is half the problem as to why they don't hire people. Especially in Australia, where for years the mentality was pushed that you couldn't earn a dollar unless you went to Uni. So everyone went to Uni, and all the dumb shots went into trades. Now the pickings for GOOD young trades people is quite slim. I met a group of 16 to 21 year Olds, wanting to become boiler makers and fabricators. Don't worry about teaching them the 3,4,5 rule, these guys don't even know how to read a tape measure... They were some of the "best" applicants for the course...

Engineers Hat On: Knowing the speed that Microcontrollers operate at, back in the day, and these days, if Link have found a benefit in the quality of the way an engine runs by moving their code to a faster MCU, than Link needs to get it's engineers to go back and make their code more efficient...

I think one of the big reasons the new owners might have more luck, is they have an actual track record of monitoring noise levels, and rectifying each one of them. Well, that's what Pheasants Wood/MDTC was like when Gary owned it, I suspect the present owners (And new ones for Wakefield) will be acting the same way, as Pheasants Wood had some hard neighbours to please, but they managed to do it! Also, interesting, a month or so ago, Labor vowed $1 mill if re-elected to get Wakefield reopened... The Libs/Nationals just vowed $5 million for Wakefield to reopen if they get elected... Side note: no matter which way you vote, those Many Blood Sucking Creatures (Poly-tick-sions) are just in it for themselves!

I think @Duncan was looking for the parts you've likely removed for the Blow Off Valves Brett if you're looking to part ways with them.

You forgot doing RNP down to Wollongong, then heading out to Albion Park and going up Mac Pass, OR going up Jamberoo mountain road, out to Moss Vale and then highway down, OR, before getting to Moss Vale, drop back down Kangaroo Valley to pop out at Nowra, and then come up through Tarago, or down to Batemans to use Braidwood/Kings Highway. Definitely longer than the original drive...

Not 100% across this half shaft in particular as I haven't removed one, but it will be pretty much the same as others... The surface the seal rests on on the half shaft itself can also wear. If it starts to wear down, it's not going to mate and seal properly. When doing the seal, you need to be checking the inner and outer surfaces it mates to, are in good condition too. Is the oil weep 100% coming from the half shaft seal location? Have you checked the breathers/vents aren't blocked? Blocked vents will bust an axle seal/make them weep. This could be why it only showed after a drive, as it needed to heat up and pressurise first (diff unable to breath)

What did the mating surface on the half shaft look like?

The first question you need to answer is, what is the definition of reliable? The next is asking how you WILL really drive it...

Mark needs this...

Jim Richards gave a talk at one of SAUNSW dinners, and someone asked a question about times he's felt it was sketchy, or more so the sketchiest. He recalled a time he raced Targa Tas. I think he said he was doing about 250kmh, and it started raining. And he said he thought "This is a bit quick, I should slow down... But to what? 180? I'm still gone at that speed..."

Ahhhhhh! I get you now. His car I know of is a GTR, converted RWD yeah? Have seen some awesome shots of his lifting inside tyre under full noise through a corner. But that much power through a normal car body with just a roll cage... Shit still twists and moves a lot

I'm curious what this is in reference to exactly with Brad's GT-R

Able to show the log of IAT from start to finish of the whole session? How many laps and how many minutes? The IAT looks to be slightly higher at end of lap than the start, I'm wondering if IAT was still climbing in total lap after lap (only more laps during that session would tell).

Daily driving, street work, or even circuit work, those chillers aren't going to work. Most "chillers" people run, are for a short burst, IE, at the 1/4 mile. Some guys will even drop dry ice in to get things cold. But those temps only stay down for so long. It's all about heat transfer. If you're not continuing to cool the chiller, it's going to end up warm and heat soaking.

So, weekend didn't pan out how I intended. Saturday was an entire write off, I was quite sick. Sunday, still not feeling great, had to do a few adult things, but got a couple of hours in feeling still under the weather. End result: -loom built and ran to rear of car for all the rear lights, and fuel pump. - fuel pump all wired to top of the tank cap. - brake lights wired to brake switch. - reverse lights fully wired to the gearbox and working. - main power cable to fuse panel ran. Lights tested with a 5amp power supply, not enough current to run all four brake lights with, so didn't snap a photo of the brakes.

Interesting thought to have: People are saying water coolant temps are easy to keep down. However, some need a lot of work on oil cooling. Water temps are normally taken at the front of the motor or on the rad inlet/outlets. Water and oil flow very differently in the motor. What if, your oil is doing the majority of the cooling in the back of the engine? Wouldn't this mean better water flow, less struggle with oil temps... There is a reason those water heat exchangers work not only to help warm up the water quickly at startup, but also stabilise oil temperatures when oil starts to get warmer than water temp. Possibly people using those oil/water heat exchangers could help with their oil temps too if oil temps are getting higher than water temp... Just a few thoughts, as the issue people have is high oil temps in racing, which could be from poor thermal management, particularly from water flow...

The real question is, is the voltage still dropping...

As I understand, and Dose can confirm, the nozzle is just a spray nozzle, purely mechanical item. Kind of like the nozzles for a garden misting system. Then you turn the pump on to pump water in. Pretty darn hard for the pumps to then "jam on" with the way electronics are. More likely if it "jammed on" it'll be through the electronics driver failing internally with a short, and then typically they've shorted that way that they end up with power everywhere, and bam, fuse blows, and now pump is off within a split second anyway.

If you're using it as an additional thing to clean the intake, and still doing all the normal maintenance to the car, and the WMI isn't being used as something to allow you to push the engine harder, than the only way a clogged nozzle will kill your engine is if you neglect maintenance on it... Which really, that'd happen even if you didn't have a clogged nozzle.

Yep, there's some stuff that isn't hard. At the moment we're feeling a financial pinch, so even dropping $100 on a few little things is hard to justify. But my some of my new Deutsch DT series plugs arrived today (without ever spending a cent... ) so the plan is to attempt to finish the motor wiring (extend what I need to, get O2 hooked up) and get the wiring for the lights all done, as well as the fuel pump. I think I even have some spare 4awg and the correct crimps to make a few earth straps from. That gets all the wiring done, I can prove it all works, and the wrap the looms and pin them where I want them. From there, jobs I can move onto is looking at mounting both seats back in, and mounting the passenger harness. I'll also review thoroughly the factory fuel lines (they'd been under water without the ends covered, and DID gunk up, so I need to see if they're okay, or I have to run new hard line. I also need to spend some time this weekend replacing bushes in a friend's Patrol, and rewiring his lights in the bullbar. So really, Skyline wiring, and then working on the Patrol is probably this weekend's end of the line jobs. While I think of it, does anyone know how the power steering valve in the R33 racks work, is it an analogue voltage, or 12V PWM etc?

I bet we get a full review by mid next summer on how well they work, and if the shit job of getting on the roof is worth it! I'm quite intrigued on if they will do anything, I've never really looked into it. That said Neil, for you sun issue, I have seen some super promising stuff on a paint you can make up, and your surface temps end up BELOW ambient air temp! Some really funky physics going on in it! Lastly, while you're on your ladder, can swap the tubes in my lights in the garage, and plug the third bay in for me? I hate ladders just as much as you do! So far... I'm still working with less than ideal light

The text in that post just makes me think of survivor bias...