MBS206

You guys change your oil? And spend more than what the home brand oil is worth?! 😮 Actually, that reminds me, mower needs an oil change, the oil has gotten a bit thick and gunky. I don't think it's happy pushing an extra 1000rpm constantly...

Commodore needs a manual box, and then to made into a convertible. Old man's comfortable MX5 then! Also, $50 and some pocket lint for the Commodore?

You can give the commodore to me.

You forgot the timing too...

Or add timing until it sounds a bit rattly, then pull timing... Really quickly!

Don't compression test. If it's running fine, don't look for problems, just enjoy!

I am going to vote, please keep the motorsport builds separate, from the general builds. I look at each, at different times, for different wants. And it makes a lot of sense to keep it separate, and also helps you to understand who's building a wild street car, vs who's building a great race car, without needing to memorise every single persons build thread and objectives.

Why does everyone film these days in psychopath mode and lose 60% of the screen? And I never realised until now you're in Bris! For some reason I thought Canada, I must have been mixxing this up with another build thread. I'll need to keep my eyes peeled to play spotto now!

If I'm paying, it'd be the most unreliable, janked together setup you've seen. I can do drive in, drive out. But don't expect it till 2038 at the earliest... And thats being optimistic...

Rob, Updates on build mate? Do I need to drive round your way and prod you with a stick, or is work just too busy at the moment? I'm happy to write you a resignation letter if work is getting in the way of building your own car

LS1 swap it. Keep it NA...

Many possibilities, like cam gears coming free of the cam shaft and spinning.

Is the laptop the problem, or something youre plugging into it killing it?

I'm definitely not in my right mind, so take this with a grain of salt... All of what you've shown won't/can't cause low/no oil pressure. I'd find what happened to the oil pressure, check the bearings, fix the oil pressure and send it after a re-tune. Then again, I don't like spending stupid money on cars these days if I can avoid it. So I'm definitely in the mad category.

Put the car in second gear instead of 1st and try again. Lots of cars, especially cable drive when in first are very touchy/jerky when you first touch the throttle. The jerkyness can also cause your foot to move ever so slightly, and on a cable setup, can be varying the throttle very minutely, but that's a large change in air flow for low speed. 2nd gear takes a lot of the 'jerk' away. If second gear doesn't make it drive able, you need to sort of the "ghost cam" tune around idle. First test would be removed it entirely and see if that eliminates the issue.

Are you in 1st gear with this "lungeyness" occuring? Just idling around the car park and then tap the throttle?

Don't pull this gym bag BS Mark, we know it was your clippers and hair dryer taking up the boot.

No no, PowerFC comes with its own HeadUnit! Haltech you need to use someone else's Headunit! Plus, the PowerFC hand controller, you can play Tetris on it too!

Haltech are releasing Haltech Connect. Their Nexxus ECUs have WiFi, and the Headunit can connect over WiFi direct to the ECU. Also allows full access to every parameter in the ECU, so you can tune from the Headunit.

No. The tune is f**ked. The numbers you put in the computer, aren't right. If you keep driving the car, then it seems you want to take even longer, and spend even more money fixing a broken motor.

That would be too easy for diagnosing. It's more fun to play throwing darts aimlessly... I vote change the O2 sensor. Reason? None, just a random dart thrown.

No, the tune was f**ked. Much like your tune is. It could end catastrophically for your engine. Either exploding engine, decimated bearings, or just burning the internals of the engine up. STOP DRIVING THE CAR AND GET IT TUNED / LOOKED AT BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY'RE DOING!

To add to this. Apart from some cranky cold starts, the tune that was on my ECU years ago for a relatively stock RB25, was happy to run and boost hard my RB30DET, with a TD07S on it. It was very out of tune, but would run and drive "like normal". Except AFRs and timing weren't right.

Depending on the exact Sprints being ran, there may end up being a need for HANS, but from memory MotorSport Australia only need that currently at state level upwards, but I foresee them lowering that in the coming years, may as well plan for HANS capable setup.

"Why do my pistons have little dimples in them kind of like a golf ball?" "Why does my pistons have a huge hole in it" "Why did my valves burn out in my head" "Why did my turbo get cooked?"