MBS206

I don't think you want to grumble about how slow it is... I think you just want to embrace the grumbly old man persona. 😛 PS, no matter how fast your car is, someone else will always have a faster car. 😛 And I'll leave you with this piece of advice... V12 swap with air shifted Sequential... Do it! 😛

All I'm hearing is sequential swap time. Gives you a shifter, and crisp hard fast shifts. You can even use flappy paddles with them. You just can't give the shifter the side to side shake to make sure you're in neutral

I'm purely suggesting, what every multinational business out there presently does! And the world governments all day it's legal.

And if you can't drive bigger injectors with peak and hold as low impedance injectors during low pulse width, it's even harder to get a nice clean known amount of fuel.

From watching the 6 hour, it seems they've really got the class A2 Ford Mustang sorted, as it was cutting it up in lap times with he X1 cars, which are all those late model turbo BMWs. I have no real idea about either of them, but watching what was happening at the 6Hour, it made the Mustang which is meant to be in a slower class look very impressive.

Also Mark, perfect timing for you to offer Fab9 to open an Aus branch for them, where you'll setup all the contracts that basically you're just the paperman, everything goes through Aus for their gear, and you can buy a piece of paper off of them once every 3 months that's really expensive. Tariffs aren't paid on exports after all. And for it, you'll just take 10% cut for your name on the papers. Oh, and a free NC intake setup and air box...

I'm not sure if Neil did head studs, but it is definitely steel wheels in the turbo. unless he stitched you up and left a standard turbo on the new motor and not the high flow 😛

Congratulations for tomorrow mate! Retirement is definitely a milestone worth celebrating!

Drop shipping isn't hard for them to sort out...

What does the circle hole on your image bolt up to in your engine bay?

Yeah, no... Kinky is right, LS would be the same, possibly better. That's even with LS7. The right gearing, good tune, free flowing inlet and exhaust. Good fuel usage

He should do an LS7 too...

That was a long winded way to say yes....

Best kept secret for seized bolts is crayons... Heat the sucker up with a torch, and push/melt crayon into it. Works a wonder. See if I can go 2 from 2 for you on how to get your bolts out...

I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...

Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked. As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.

Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.

Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway? Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.

Buying local could also land you in the same scenario you're in now. Someone else just offloading their crap.

Sunken cost fallacy. The real question is, would you rather a car on the road now, that's perfect, or do you like the idea of building a car into something that's yours? If the latter, put money into it. If the earlier, sell it, and buy another, and be very particular. However, be aware, they're an old car, they'll all require significant maintenance at some point.

Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear... Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!

ECUMaster is an Australian company from memory, been around a while, and seem to actually play really well on more unique engine setups. Seems to be more of them being used in the states, and they seem to support more cylinders than most others. My opinion on stock ECU/Nistune with he AFM, is you can tune around the issue of stalling. It's still a bit of a band-aid, and not the most perfect smoothest setup, but it can make it drive able and not an absolute PITA. But you're still compromising. A vent to atmosphere BOV has the same issue as no BOV with regards to the AFM. Both make the ECU think more air is entering the engine than there really is. And I can't find any hard science/decent evidence that supports the claims all the "you MUST run a BOV of some sort of you'll blow the turbo up". About the only one some people can give of why is "lag between gear shifts", and that is only an issue when your boost source for the waste gate is pre throttle body. I ran my boost source for the TD07S off the inlet manifold. Didn't have weird boost spiking issues, didn't have boost control issues, and on a gear shift the wastegate slammed shut, which meant all exhaust gases would be keeping it going round and round and not waiting for the wastegate to shut again when I stepped off the clutch and back on the loud pedal. It came back on boost in the next gear pretty much instantly. ECU / tune / BOV choice I think really comes down to a lot more factors than just what you've stated. And personally, especially for daily driving, recirc setup for the BOV, or no BOV. I dislike the really loud BOV when everyone is taking off from the lights etc.

Common for single gauges to be swapped around. My 33 GTST when I bought it had a GTR tacho fitted, everything else was GTST gauges.

Google says for a 1998 Nissan Maxima to pull/pry, and the metal pin might even come out with it. I'd do a bit more googling, there was a few videos, find some where the shafts/needles appear most similar and compare the techniques.

And make sure the belts are tightened appropriately too.