MBS206

And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!

The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.

For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.

I believe he's also running a Haltech, at which point, should be able to drive low impedance injectors directly, using peak and hold settings.

I'm so glad base security is so high. I see they stopped some random codger from being able to just wander in off the street... 😛 PS, intake looks good!

That's Garrets way of saying it will manage boost itself. Give the wastegate no boost reference...

Hopefully more pedal gives more powah! Boo to paint jail, I want dyno comparisons!

I'd be using your approach if I had the light. Some measuring, get some vernier calipers, measure, draw, make another one as a slightly smaller hole and start cutting.

I'd also look at the Haltech wiring guide, check what pins THEY think are in which spot. In the R33 GTST there is a wire that needs swapping for the PowerFC to function properly. I believe @Duncan will have more info specifically. I won't be surprised if it's a similar issue, or as GTS said, it will be something super odd. Basically, you'll need a multimeter and probing the power and ignition wires. Heck, it could be as simple as the Haltech isn't set to turn the correct outputs on to trigger relays to power things like coils/injectors.

To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger! And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...

Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?

Oh, I forgot too, all the multimedia stuff captured and sold through things like people playing Pokemon Go. Pokemon Go specifically, can actually be traced all the way back to a CIA investment company too. So yep, they're watching everything. Not to mention the new stuff where they've worked out how to use WiFi signals to be able to map occupants inside of a building. That one would be something that I see being more used in public/government buildings, as you need to understand the signals when the room has no one in it first. It's not as easy as Hollywood would like you to think it is.

Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.

I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.

It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...

If the house has ever been sold before too, they have photos from that etc.

It's not any meta data. They have scraped images from everywhere, and then use AI to compare your photo to other photos and work out where you are.

This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc. The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).

Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.

Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...

Chihuahuas... Little and yappy. That could describe a bogan we all know...

Big enough for you, Jackie, and some puppers mate! I vote some GSDs, but I am biased How big of a block is it on?

We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed. In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.

I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up! For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.

I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.