MBS206

Neil, you'll be missed mate. It saddens me deeply that I can't pick the phone up for a quick question that always turned into a 2 hour amazing chat! We had many a good laugh. I always enjoyed joining you at the track, travelling to catch up and see you burn more fuel and rubber, and I was truly looking forward to seeing you with Cheryl back on the black stuff. I'll see you in the next chapter buddy! Rest easy!

Pull that wire off the starter, and then test again. Then reconfirm what I said above or we can't help you back trace this. From here, it could be as simple as a wire with stupidly high resistance.

From you photo, you should have two really big thick cables on your starter motor, connected via a big ring connector. Both of these should be on the same big stud. The solenoid on the starter motor should then have a small spade connector. This is the signal wire for starting. Big fat thick wires should be constant 12V, like always. That small thin wire should only received 12v when you turn the key to start. Now as there's a heap of wiring changes having been done here, my next question is, have you confirmed where the other end of that signal wire goes to? If you're doing an aftermarket harness, chances are, there's a relay to be triggered somewhere. Track that down. Then also check out how the key wiring is done. What other wiring apart from the engine harness is modified? If your signal wire constantly reads 12V, you have a problem.

Bleed it again with the engine running.

Oh they definitely are plastic junk. I'm also concerned at him giving advise to lay an oil cooler perfectly horizontal, without mentioning anyway of getting air flow through it, even though he recognises it's quite tricky and complicated. The best advice for this thread, has been given, and it's not start working on things and changing them, it's work out from hard data if there's an actual problem, and what the setup presently is. If we don't know what the setup is, we can end up chasing our tails around and around and around.

I honestly think you should move it up by whatever priority possibly. The time you're spending chasing this issue could be better spent doing PWM and resolving it fully.

Those setups of laying a cooler flat isn't just a case of lay the cooler flat. There's a bunch of aero that goes into it too. Its why some cars if you even take the plastic under tray off they can start having hot/cold issues.

Euros have a button on the dash to make the bearings quiet. Wait... That one just makes the radio louder. But, same same...

Is it just a popped in dent in plastic? Or is the paint cracked too?

Is it enough to warrant a body kit for the 5 now? Or so small that it doesn't warrant it, but it's so big that in 6 months you'll be so annoyed you won't be able to look at the car? And on that note, what are you thinking of replacing it with?

Because he's using a different product, designed different, works different. Can create a problem.

The first thing you need to do, is validate if you have a problem of overheating, or something else going on. Do some data logs. What is the whole spec of the car, and don't just say "bigger radiator", what brand, size, etc? What FMIC, what's done to the motor?

Put up photos of the crimps you're planning to use. Let us critique them 😛 But seriously post them up before you use them

The pics refuse to load for me, even on a decent connection, Chrome was just shitting the bed. Duncan to resize, open them in mspaint, hit CTRL + W enter 30% as the value, and then save as a new file and upload that. Especially if they're like a 3000x3000 pixel image! 😮 On the topic of Autos, in the Bathurst 6 hour, there was another auto, that's been there a few times. The Levitt Motorsports AMG C63. He's killed autos before too for various reasons. Also when the engine does things like thinking it's overheating, they'll often do weird things like turn off sport mode/manual mode and put it back to boring auto mode and turn power down etc. Collision systems can do weird shit, especially things like TCS if you get a steering angle sensor out of alignment etc. Rip the ECU out, put a carb on, save all your problems

So you THINK it's overheating, and are only GUESSING it is, because you THINK the ECU is hitting a heat cut? Do you have any datalogs to prove this? Is the temperature gauge even moving? Other than emotions and assumptions, what is telling you it's overheating? What ECU do you even have?

This is the entire issue. The stud should have a ringland on it, such that the stud metal, is also the same piece as attached to the ringland. Think of it this way, take an actual bolt, turn it upside down. The head of the bolt, is the ringland, and it is all part of the stud, so you put your ring crimp over it, a washer, and bolt it down. Because you've got a stud with not metal landing, all of your real electrical connection, is through the threads in your nut to stud. Add to that, your nut is a nylock, so it isn't even necessarily all metal to metal contact. But on a 6mm stud, your thread depth is probably 0.5mm probably a 1mm pitch, and being about 4mm of nut height. That all equates to f**k all quality contact area. Not to mention, all the other joints in that area adding tiny resistances which all add up to bad heat! You're going wire to crimp, crimp to washer, washer to nut, nut to stud, stud to nut, nut to washer, washer to crimp, crimp to wire. 8 joints in a small area, each with a small resistance. If each joint adds 0.01ohm, that's 0.08ohm (basically immeasurable on most digital multimeters, you need a 4 wire measurement). At 25amp, 0.08ohm is giving you a 2V drop. 2V, at 25amp, is 50watts of power. Where is all that power going? Heat. You can now get someone else to go do the mafs on your stud and specific heat, and you'll start to realise why shits melting. Even if you say I've way overestimated the resistance by a factor of 10, a 5w power input constantly as heat, is pretty high too and that's on 0.008ohms! Get a good stud kit, that has a metal landing. Get good quality crimp with plenty of metal in the ring. PS those JayCar ring terminals have the thinnest little ring. That area that GTSBoy indicates is one of the more meaty areas of the ring terminal!

Disconnecting a coilpack/injector isn't 100% on identifying anything other than the suspect cylinder. If doing it you note one in particular makes no difference at all, you've got a total miss on that cylinder, it could still be for numerous reasons. If you do it, and one cylinder affects the idle less than all the others, now you t least have a suspect cylinder. I'd be doing a compression check on all cylinders first up. If they're out of spec, do a leak down on it too. Secondly, grab a video of this idle and stick it up here.

I don't know of anything specialist about the Stagea and pulling it's CVs, but the ones I've worked on, are all damn easy. Nothing "hard" at all, not even anything really technical or needing any crazy knowledge or precision. Have a Google as you straight up might be able to buy decent replacement CVs/axles for the Stagea.

I didn't realise you used to work at a place that does tuning! I know while I'm putting the Subaru back together it'll need a remap, but I'm pondering how easy it'd be to do logging at a track day. I've got an Innovative LM-1, and am pondering if I get a new O2 for it, or what a decent Wideband (standalone) sensor and controller is worth that I can log (And either ECUFlash or ECUEdit might support). I was searching for hiring a dyno for DIY tuning but looks like only 2WD dynos can be hired at the moment and I need 4WD

@robbo_rb180 do you tune your cars yourself or do you send them to someone? If you do it yourself, do you hire a dyno, or tune it after logging it at the track? Meaning like touch ups when you tweak or modify something a bit

I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice! Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?

It's not even really flywheel power. They might assume it and state a flywheel power, but really, hub dynos are measuring it at the hub. Reality of hub vs roller, is the change in inertia, as wheel is gone, and as you said, removing a slip from tyre to roller. Anyone measuring power at the wheel hub, can not claim flywheel power, as we don't know what the losses are in the drive line, especially on cars that aren't brand new.

Be happy it wasn't old auto gearbox fluid. That shit, is disgusting!

ShockWorks actually explain it really really well. It had f**k all body handling capability. And they took like 100mm of travel to build up the dampening you need on a fast action. So it means hitting a huge bump in the road like a pot hole, the shock is doing basically until you've already fallen in. So basically, on a big hard bump, it does absolutely f**k all for a few inches, and then slaps you in the back with a sledge hammer. Whereas for good control, and to absorb the bumps rather than being stupidly bumpy / bouncy, you want the really quick acting shocks so that they're able to control the spring immediately. Basically, MaxSpeeding, terrible for track work, and useless on the road, especially if you have lots of bumpy roads!!!

After having a look at dyno testing ShockWorks did, going to the Cusco, there would be an epic amounts of difference, especially daily driving a car vs the MaxSpeedingRods coil overs. From a bunch tested in the below video, ShockWorks found that even a 20 year old Cusco coilover still outperformed all the others tested, and also showed how epically shit the MaxSpeedingRods coil overs are! https://youtu.be/smNWdkv2i7U?feature=shared