MBS206

It seems you'd like your Skyline to go to a great home, that can keep it as a beautiful museum piece. I feel I can provide the perfect place for it, however, I'm not sure I can justify so much money for a Skyline that has only been crashed 3 times. Due to this and market prices, would you be against me buying it for $100.00, with $60 to be paid upfront, and the remaining $40 to be paid annually in equal payments?

Well, turns out not a lot happened from back then to now, between life again, and working on 3 separate other cars (only one of which was mine, and will now be departing the household soon). So I decided with the whole "don't go outside, it's a cyclone!" Turning in to being not a whole lot, I ventured down to the garage, found a couple of water leaks in the shed (the main one I've already fixed), and then ended up "stuck" as it started pouring rain, and I didn't want to walk back inside in the pouring rain. This meant I ended up taking a look at the Skyline, and trying to work out what past Matt had been upto. I retraced a few things out from scratch, added the rest of the power feeds in that I needed for the indicators, and headlights. Double checked I'd wired a few things up correctly (and worked out how I wired a few things to begin with), updated my sparse notes. Added one of the ground points. Oh, and got really really dusty, as the car is quite dirty. Wrote up quickly what should be left for me to do with the wiring too. Adding the below photos more for my records than anything else. I need to make myself a proper book for the car that details everything, and how I've done it, but for now, this is my records... The third image is my most important one for me, and I need to draw it out into a proper schematic eventually. The last photo is my re-written list, I'd have put it on the white board, except I had to take the white board down to fix one of the water leaks.

Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.

It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again... I'm hoping the latter...

Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?

A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly... Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid.... As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.

Interesting. I've not dived into the cleanliness of the factory CAS. I'm curious if the variations are less of an issue if the OEM sensor were brand new. Optical sensors if they're starting to get dirt and crap into them as they're getting older would definitely cause issues as they age. It's an interesting point to keep in the back of mind for me though

So, barely torque them, but add a drop of Loctite just to be sure?...

After a quick read, it's just conductivity testing. Might grab the DMM at work and do a 4 wire test on some oil for science. I think Sarah's car is due for a fluid change, so capturing a reading from her old fluid, reading from my unopened old bottles, and then I'll grab a brand new bottle. We'll have to see how far it all varies. And possibly after this weekend I might be able to steal a spot on a hoist in the workshop across from work to even do the brake bleed easily (yeah, I still hate jacking cars and working on the ground, so I do it in style when possible 😛 ) I'll get a small jig printed for the probes so we know we're perfectly keeping the probes at the same distance. Using 4 wire should work perfectly, as it's applying a voltage to measure current, and measuring the voltage drop. that's my theory without being a chemical/physics engineer. GTSBoy, any thoughts on how you'd do it with a benchtops DMM?

On a 400hp RB, what benefits other than "it's not 30+ years old" are you seeing from the NZ Wiring Kit trigger setup? If it were me going to change triggering, my belief would be to go for a crank trigger to remove the issues caused by what people claim is belt stretch etc, but that's from my understanding a much larger issue for super high power, rather than those in the 400hp and below club.

I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?

Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?

This comparison table needs more MaxSpeedingRods turbos added for those off us who like the LOLs 😛

It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...

Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor. I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)

My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc. But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights. PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"

No, I refuse to buy their cheap ass crap! I do need to order a bunch of different nuts/bolts to refill my nut/bolt wall though. Maybe you could go for a walk through Bunnings for me? (Or send me some stuff from your work? ) I really struggle to work out how the US standardised to Metric in what the 70s or 80s, and yet, half a century later, there's been little done to actually bring it into fruition. It truly baffles me On the whole Fastenal thing, I went reading their site (My god they sell a lot of varied stuff!), and it seems like it really depends what store you're near if you can walk in and just grab a few small things, or if that branch is primarily distribution with only a small window of "counter time" available (if at all). That definitely makes it harder, as move locations and it drastically changes your ability for success For things like your M6x1.0, if you want to work on your own Skyline, and you also have a "home workshop" I'd recommend setting yourself up a small Nut/Bolt wall/section. It doesn't even need to be big at all. Most things depending on the diameter, will be a specific pitch, like the M6x1, M5x0.7 etc. Bigger bolts is mostly 1.5, except for a small number of things and that will come down to torque. From memory bolts for the brake calipers (and other things that need a lot of torque) will end up being a 1.25mm pitch. Save up a few dollars, and order a range of nuts/bolts. If you want to minimise cost a little, buy something like M6 x 40, and M6x70mm (1mm pitch) in both. In addition, buy yourself an M6x1mm thread chaser. That way you have long bolts that you can cut down to size, and then chase the threads out. Funnily enough, I find what I'd pay here for ordering 5 bolts, I can pay about 50% more and you'll get 100 of them. If that doesn't quite work out due to space / ability to buy plenty up front, then each time you need some bolts, order 100 of what ever you're getting. Put them in clearly marked containers. Over a few years, you'll acquire plenty of different sizes, and will end up ordering less and less. And the cost for 100 bolts won't be much more than you paid for your 5 you needed to order anyway Just takes a little planning ahead, by investigating what nuts/bolts you'll need, and ordering them before doing the job. Edit: If it's also primarily for working on just the Skyline, for some reason my brain is screaming that at some point, either Nissan, Nismo, (Or possibly a third party) was selling a "kit" of every nut and bolt in a Skyline, purely for people restoring/rebuilding. It'd likely be quite expensive, but would give you every/any nut/bolt you need for stock/factory things. I'm not sure if it's still available, or even if it actually fully came to market, it's just something niggling in the back of my brain that you could look into further if that sort of thing interested you? (It might have been for the R32 GTR or something specifically too, and not just any Skyline)

Just cage it, call it a race car, and then fall in love with the chirp chirps through pit area! Also, this is coming from someone with a completely locked diff...

Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom? Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE. The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf

And what you pay for a pack of 8 bolts and nuts at Bunnings, will land me 200 of the same nuts and bolts from a fastener shop. M12 * 1.25 IS a standard. It's not like ordering M12x1.25 and hoping the thread pitch is right. Unlike ordering an ounce, will get you 4 different amounts depending on which ounce someone takes it to be. Your issue is a supply issue.

But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...

With that engine being a one rotor, would that make this into an RX4?

Now Mark, I know you've already done an engine swap, but how about doing an engine swap that reduces a lot of weight, and effectively makes it a mid mount engine setup? https://youtu.be/A99702U07QI?feature=shared

Im also amazed how well Attessa holds up to all of the abuse. Especially with the burnouts and crap you guys used to do at Texi!

True! I think I'm closer to 06 with the cameras in phones being out there more. And the nearly impossible to use internet web browsers. Or paying for ring tones... Man I hated when we couldn't just compose a ringtone on a Nokia anymore! These days I just hate it if my phone rings, beeps, boops, or vibrates!