MBS206

How do our rules work in Aus with importing one, since they were sold locally here?

Stock O2 sensors are narrowband. They're useless once you're away from stoich. IE, useless for what you're trying to do. 10:1 will read the same as 14:1 from the stock O2 sensors. That is, they'll read rich. The same level of rich.

You should totally get a Brumby, and then come pick up the Subaru Liberty GTB I have here. EJ25 Turbo, 6 speed manual from the sti (just no dccd), and the good rear diff. Drop all that into a Brumby and go have fun!

What mods are done to the car? By driving in traffic, does it die while moving, say at 50kmh? Or its when you're sitting idling it wants to die, or when idling and you go to accelerate? When you're idling, how long is it normally idling for time wise before it starts to miss and sputter?

I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?

Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?

It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!

As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2. Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...

Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant. From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it. ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.

Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean. Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values. Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.

How will O2 sensor voltages help to identify it when it is sputtering?

So by that logic, an insanely expensive GTR for $200k+ is quite cheap, at 12% of Sydney's median house price compared to over 50% when a GTR was new...

Saw this, instantly thought of this thread and all the ADHDers cleaning their sheds...

Nah, just take the other one off too

On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU). The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm. Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.

12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear. I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.

How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.

My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.

It only looks tidy, as most of the stuff that was on the whole back wall, is now in the trailer to go to the tip, or has been shoved in my 2.2x2.4m "Spare parts room", and now I can't get to anything in there Ha ha ha I could definitely do with a bit more space, but I'd just end up with your problems I'm going to enclose the car port beside the garage, and move a lot of stuff into it I think. OR... It will be setup as a fabrication area, and the main garage will have parts storage in it. I'm not sure yet... Need some pictures of that big shed you've got with the bikes and Skyline in

Probably a smart choice to buy one vs build, purely for the motivation part as you said! Imagine the metal dust everywhere from grinding all the steel to build one. Ha ha ha! Also, post a photo of your garage. Mine is below, this is where I've been cleaning and have already half filled a caged 6*4 trailer. And this is after my cleaning expedition mentioned previously... The middle normally has a car in it, but I'm dumping things in the middle as I sort through them. And poor skyline was dusty and has had the lightest few drops of rain and now it looks atrocious and needs to be dragged back out and washed thoroughly! And yes to the right is technically another bay, you really can only see 2 bays out of 3 in this picture.

Did the noise appear after your sand trap adventure? Could be something got dislodged and is playing rub rub. Even a rock wedged somewhere.

If you're claiming the issues are not skyline specific, then either the USA is living in the 90s / early 2000s, OR you have the issue of "survivor bias". Which is you're mainly hearing and listening to those with terrible experiences, and haven't found the guys who have cars with good decent builds and no problems. It happens in AU too, that plenty of people keep having issues, and they keep going to the workshops that are known to be shit "because I read on the internet". Even worse, are those who keep posting on the internet as though they know for a fact what something is, when they've never touched/looked at said item in their life, and again are making assumptions, based on something they read, or because it's a certain way in other cars. It's even funnier when those same people debate the facts with the people who've lived and breathed this stuff for over 15 years. Example, I've had someone tell me you can't do something with a Skyline, because they read it on the internet, except I can tell they're wrong, as I did that exact thing back in 2008 with my Skyline.

The funniest part I saw, was someone would bitch and moan on FB about something, Andy would be the one to respond, asking for more info, if he could contact them, what the engine setup is, what their config file was, and 95% of the responses were people just going "der! It doesn't work" and Andy going "What doesn't work?" And then going "The firmware!" And they'd go around in circles as no one could ever give information, and Haltech couldn't fault things on the bench, (especially when people wouldn't give any specifics). Many moons ago, when Andy was back at e420c stage, he reached out to me, and asked me to test different plug and play looms for him (already had an e420c in the car on his V1 PNP loom). And he kept asking me, as I was competent enough to be able to give him some specific feedback on what was/wasn't working, how to replicate the faults etc, and work through things with him. Most people are terrible at answering the questions they're asked, or being able to provide quality feedback other than "it doesn't work".

Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.

I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...