MBS206

Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.

I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.

It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...

If the house has ever been sold before too, they have photos from that etc.

It's not any meta data. They have scraped images from everywhere, and then use AI to compare your photo to other photos and work out where you are.

This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc. The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).

Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.

Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...

Chihuahuas... Little and yappy. That could describe a bogan we all know...

Big enough for you, Jackie, and some puppers mate! I vote some GSDs, but I am biased How big of a block is it on?

We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed. In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.

I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up! For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.

I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.

Time for a FFP with your upgrades, cover comes off easy then...

I've heard this theory, and can totally understand it, but has anyone put a temp probe in there, in free air to see how hot it actually is with it on vs off? I haven't seen any real data to know for sure.

Is it additionally possible you have a plug problem on one of the injectors, or JEM are pretty sure its the injector itself that was starting to get a bit sticky?

Another reason they go all smelly, is getting water leaks. If you don't get in and stop the water getting in, (Not just the little bit from in the air/on your clothes/shoes if raining) then it will rust things, and destroy electronics. I'm presently cutting a large chunk of floor out of a car and welding new metal in because someone didn't realise how bad a leak was in a car that was getting very infrequently driven. 2 years, and floor rusted through completely on one side of the car... I will also add, for anyone that hasn't skip the steam clean (I think it's a great idea as a part of your regular once every 3/6 months style of clean anyway) and get yourself a wet / dry vacuum. Like the big floor cleaners. As clean as you think your car is, you'll be amazed at how much dirt it pulls out. And the more dirt and crap you can get out, the less the car will smell, and my god how much nicer it all looks! @The Bogan Mark has a specific car one that he raves about. I just stole the mother in laws wet/dry vacuum deep cleaner, and use the hand held section. On a car that hasn't had it before and is 25+ years old, I can spend over an hour on the passenger floor alone, and STILL deem that section as dirty, and more dirt just keeps on coming out! Honestly, in the time we've all had our cars, when was the last time you deep cleaned the carpets or seats (cloth type seats)? You'll be shocked how much crap you're sitting in... And then you'll need to go home and do any carpets in your house too, as that will continue to terrify you...

Welcome to now being really annoyed at trying to get stretched metal nice and flat again. Or... Fill the low on each side of the high and sand it smooth and forget it has a minor bulge not mirrored in the other panel

His gate spring is already 8psi BELOW what the system will run as a minimum. I don't expect much if any change to the boost curve.

According to Josh, one of our local Americans, it seems the USA still can't get turbo systems quite right at a lot of places, so possible that they're not running great at all, but they've just not complained as NFI about getting it right...

What is shown here by GTs is what I was getting at about the gate being non linear. It's like the throttle in your car. Roughly 80% of your power is controlled with 20% of the throttle blade movement. Same same for your wastegate which makes control very hard.

Or just wire a multimeter in, sit it up like it's a gauge, go for a drive, read temp gauge, read multimeter, speak to phone and tell it to take notes.

Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114 That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees). It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.

It's possible it's the same issue, as I described. The twins also weren't able to bypass enough air around them, based on the wild restriction in the head. OP needs to confirm how bone stock the head is. Either way, on the setup, if the wastegate cant get boost eventually down to 12psi, there's an issue. Heck, maybe there's some sort of restrictor installed in the air line to the wastegate system. Slow to react to open, then when boost drops it's slow for it to go back down to close the wastegate enough. This doesn't explain why it can't get down to gate pressure though. I'd be testing the gate by slowly increasing pressure from an external air source and see how the gate moves. If he has the type of gate I think he has from his definition, the motion of it opening is non linear too which can cause issues with getting it to play nice.

If you have a valve, set to 12PSi, and when it ramps up, it goes out to 23PSi, and then settles for a consistent 20PSi and thats the lowest it will go, then I'd be suspecting you have an issue getting enough air to flow AROUND the turbo on the hot side. Now, this could directly flow into what GTSBoy is saying, and that's effectively that your skinny ports aren't able to get enough of the air through the head. Remember, boost isn't a measure of air flow, it's a measure of restriction. And if the turbo at max bypass around it is still able to deliver more air than the head can ingest, your boost will be up. In the NEO Head, being NA, you said it's stock, are you on stock cams, and stock springs in it? Have you tried doing a run with the wastegate held fully open start to finish?