MBS206

I never noticed a difference between mine being on or off in terms of sound etc. It isn't on the bonnet like dynamat etc. The main difference I can see it "potentially" doing is keeping some of the engine bay heat off the bonnet on the outside. So really, at most, it might be protecting the paint the tiniest bit. But there are plenty of examples out there where people have removed it, and it doesn't hurt the paint work.

Give you $100.00 for it...

I went from stupid 600+HP setup, to an NA Barra in mine...

It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?

Stock R33 except for suspension, tyres, brakes, and seats is a great ride. Get that power up around the 200mark, and it's great and reliable.

Here's the funny thing, my EV isn't that much heavier than its petrol variant. (1773 vs 1510). An R32 GTR is 1430... AND it puts all of the weight in the lowest location. So that's taking some higher up weight, and getting it lower, and all added weight lower. That gives a really nice low CG, and means it doesn't body roll that bad too... The one I'm driving is a Kona, and for a soccer mum SUV on cheapo tyres (not my choice), she'll hold the road surprisingly well. The only part that you've got to be aware of for cornering, is that at 80kmh it will still break into wheel spin, and if you lift off, regen breaking hits in hard. Hence in sports mode, I have regen breaking dialled back to its lightest setting without being off, other wise it's really jerky to drive if you want to roll out of the power a little.

There was a few times that 150m marker nearly got to exit the chat 😛

This is where what you want is a Barra 4L. I had the FG XR6T for a few years. It made bulk power, and so stupidly effortlessly. But if you want true amazing power that's incredible in traffic light GPs or getting into a gap in traffic, you can't beat an EV...

Ha ha ha, your hair is still red to me mate. That said... I'm mostly red colour blind 😛

Hint, he's about 5 ft tall, red hair, angry, and goes by Mark... 😛 Used to be MLR username.

I like the idea of tagging the model, and if GTS-t/GTt or GTR, and then a what, so wiring, engine, suspension. That way you end up with a matrix, all content R33 GTST, or you can find all content that is wiring related for example.

It's not called a gas pedal. That's just what Murica refers to it as. It's called a throttle pedal, or accelerator pedal. Because it makes the engine accelerate, and the thing it is controlling is the... Throttle... The only pedal in the vehicles that "gives it more gas" is in a diesel. And it doesn't give it has. It gives it diesel.

Let's be wary though, if cranking is so far off, what else isn't set right? Are the dead times set right, voltage compensation etc? It definitely sounds like it's cranking fuel issues, and holding flat to the floor is shutting them down, but I'm with Duncan that if nothing was changed in the ECU at all, and then this started, I'd be more thinking a leaking injector. Do as Duncan said, drop the oil and make sure it's not full of fuel.

Wowee! She looks like a major handful out there Pete!

I'd do it all again in a heart beat. Well, not all, I'd make some different choices in which mods. But I'd definitely still spend all the money.

So you're saying don't let him do a track day in a car I own? Granted, I've only ever had successful track days in other people's cars, and a 100% kill rate in taking my own cars to the track...

You miss spelled bearings...

Maybe you need to go borrow one of Pete's cars? He doesn't seem worried about break GTRs

It's got a problem Prank... It looks like both washer spray caps have fallen off this car... 😛

The title of Engineer is not protected. However different states have different rules about what an Engineer requires to operate. Engineering for a motor vehicle modification is very different to engineering for a bridge, electronics, etc, including what that engineer needs as certifications. In Canberra, "Engineer" is the loosest category with basically nothing stopping you calling yourself and engineer and designing a bridge or building. From what I've reviewed, QLD has the strictest requirements through RPEIQ.

Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST... Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.

He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛

Geez, engineers fees have definitely gone up. Mine back 2007 cost me all of $300. Mind you, I had to go back to him a few times to get him to write the correct things on the report after he'd inspected it. Things like wrong exhaust size, wrong wheel sizes, etc etc.

Come on guys, they're just trying to sell their project car to scrape together a house deposit in the Western Suburbs of Sydney...

Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... 😛