MBS206

Highway, Towing or around town? From what I've heard of Cruisers they're more in the 14L/100KM range in diesel. No experience myself, just what I've heard from other owners.

I 100% agree with you about not towing with a light vehicle. But by the time I add me, fuel, a couple of things in the boot, and potentially a passenger, the falcon is knocking on the door of 2T. Trying to get my car down to 1300KG minimum (If not lower), and trailer with spare wheels, and tools, 600KG... Car is still sitting 100KG heavier... Although, I'd rather have a 4WD to tow with, more pracitcal with loading stuff up etc, but no where near as practical as a daily driver.

For some reason my mind was just sitting there going "NO WAY! You won't get a BA for that cash..." But it had the XR6 filter turned on... LOL My Bad.

You guys are expecting to pickup decent BAs for 5K... Like... Seriously? Plus, if you want to tow, spend the extra coin in the BA/BF range and get the turbo model. Shit loads more torque and they're effortless to drive. I'm yet to throw a trailer on the back of my FG XR6T, but it will happen very soon. Around town it's great too... Plenty of poke for some mild fun on daily trips, and purely in the city on stop start, I've so far seen the worst of 14L/100KM, on the hume with no trailer on it's in the single digits. I did Wollongong to Goulburn to Wollongong, and then 200odd KM of city driving in stop start and primarily on the cold fuel map, and it still averaged 10L/100KM... Did I mention mid 13second quarters out of the box?

It's why I love my falcon... Peak torque starting at roughly 2500RPM from memory... I spend most of my time driving around town though below 2000RPM... If I feel like going some where quickly I rev it to 3000RPM... If I feel like having some fun I let it swing to redline... LOL Torque and Response FTMFW!

From that list... Patrol.

Back pressure goes "Om nom nom nom"...

It includes compulsory third party. IE, damage to PEOPLE. It won't cover property.

I'll take the car that makes all of its grunt down in the low to mid range rather then up top... That way you just short shift, and stay on power. If it's dead down low on power, it's going to be slow off the mark unless you have a shit load of grip and launch it all the time...

Between the fact that you just said that, and the fact that I just spent nearly 30K on a new tow car/daily biatch is the only reason it wouldn't be sold for a second time

No point doing a DIY. Holden change the engines wayyyy too much to keep things neat like that. I've been finding this the hard way...

For nice and neat, and depending on how long the cut needs to be, you could use a dremel.

I'm with Bubba, sounds like you have plugged part of the steering rack etc back in. Unplug the cable you plugged back in and see what happens. How heavy was heavy? Was it like need two hands on the wheel all the time to turn, or just a bit firmer? Most likely find you had the solenoid unplugged that changes PS pressure depending on speed.

If you look at the pump, you would see that the inlet is normally in the middle of the pump, that means you need to keep that much fuel over the pump, in a large area, meaning fuel can slosh/move around, and you can end up with surge. The larger your surge tank becomes, the less of a true surge tank that it is... The idea of a surge tank is to keep enough fuel at the pump, while you're cornering/launching and fuel in the main tank can't be picked up... If your surge tank gets bigger and bigger, then suddenly it can come prone to surge... Also, most people don't require a surge tank, as they don't run fuel low enough in the tank. If it's just a weekender/occasional track day car, just keep the main tank over 1/2 full. If you're going for ten tenths, then put a surge tank in, and run only 15 litres in the main tank...

We only need to be told once... I've still got some shit to sort out on my car quickly first before it comes back anyway, I'll give you a ring after new year and we can work out when you want mine back. Still need to mod my exhaust manifolds... Stupid freaking bunnings for not having the right dremel gear...

If he takes Cheryl... I'll look at taking the Coon out...

This... Is quite true. While wrxs and evos can be piloted by any gumby, I've only been in one GTR on a track where the driver knew how to drive it. Remember attessa (awd) doesn't come into effect on a GTR until the back comes loose... So to be quick, you must get the back loose, point the front where you want to go and open the throttle... Most people back off at the point of the loose rear. Most GTRs only get there awd used on the launch for this reason...

We're also into beer...

If it stops at the cross member I can see it helping with cooling if the front of the guard is closer to the ground then the back and the bonnet has a good seal all around. It'll make a low pressure point under the car at rear of engine bay and suck air through the radiator and engine bay and out the back. Pretty much how a standard setup does...

Either that or if Ryan isn't in a hurry use mine when it comes up shortly and then you can leave it in...

Now the problem is people putting unleaded in diesels... Lol

Under the laws of physics energy can not be created or destroyed, it may only change state. Therefore to lose 250kws you need it to become another form of energy other then kinetic... That normally means sound or heat... While 1000kw cars may be noisy, they are not producing 250kw of noise... Nor are they boiling diff and gearbox oil or melting metal parts... Hence they can't be making 250rwkw in heat either... They're not storing so no potential energy and I don't see them getting brighter, therefore they're not pitting it out in light energy... Since there is no other energy forms available... They must be putting most of that power through in kinetic energy... Most losses are caused from drag, primarily from bearings, which have a set coefficient of friction, meaning that it's primarily a constant loss, not a percentage loss. Autos and manuals do "lose" different amounts of power purely from the design of the trans and torque converters/clutch. The main part of this is the torque converter, as it is designed to slip a kittle and use a liquid to transmit power, this means you end up losing power in the form of heat in this scenario, but only a bit.

I'm thinking I want one like that too for mine... Purely to avoid having to seal the boot off. No liquids back there means no need to seal...

You mustn't venture far from Sydney then. Edit: far from the few schools in Sydney that have them that is. I don't come through Syd as much as people that live there, but I spot heaps of school zones without the flashing lights.

Guys, you also have to remember, we normally have 48 people entered on a day. If we run 15 minute groups, we have and once an hour, you've got only 4 groups, meaning 12 cars in a group, this is a very heavy track for a normal club day. When we run a full track day we prefer to run 6 groups, at 10 minutes a piece, so there are only 8 cars per group. To those wanting longer sessions, maybe try lining up on time. It's amazing the number of people who don't turn up until halfway through a session! And remember, with this exact track day, people were concerned with oil and water temps as it was "December and in goulburn". So by shortening the sessions we help avoid over heating.