MBS206

I think the problem you're likely to see, is oil separating while in the tube, and accumulating in it, and then you'll end up with an air lock effectively. That is the main concern I feel will occur. So may not happen immediately, and main tell will be motor appearing to be awesome as catch can has no / very very little oil accumulating in it.

So you'll now accept a non yellow Suzuki Swift?

Also, meant to say, on the EV side of things, the weight part is definitely an issue regarding EV acceleration, but oddly, if you're smart, you can get the car to handle REALLY well. All that weight, is mounted stupidly low. Also, how awesomely you can get a 50/50 weight balance properly! And you might not have all the power in a straight line, dayum, you can make some ground up in a corner with low CG and better weight balance! Oh, add to that, companies now starting to do EV Cars with quick swap batteries, like the way bike companies have done EV bikes. Would be a good setup for track days, and even endurance races, just need some better cooling for longevity of power... Also the 10/15 minute session and charge for 45/50 minutes could work if the race tracks had some normal 3 phase chargers. Even better if they had a HUGE charger like the BP Servos do...

It's easier to get the Barra to fit, than an LS. There's more room to fit the exhaust past the steering column with a Barra, then there is with the LS. Engine fits in with a radiator, it's "tight" but not really any tighter than some modern cars these days. While you talk about making RB power, the part most people don't really notice, is the amount of torque they make. They make power lazily like the LS does. IE, look at a Barra NA motor from a BA, makes only a couple of KW less than an RB25DET, EXCEPT, it also makes an extra 100nm of torque. Barra makes power, lower in the power band. If you make the same amount of power in motor A at 5,000RPM, as you are at 6500RPM in motor B, (Barra A, RB B in general), than that is already showing an additional 30% torque, as you're passing 5,000RPM. When you also match the barra gearboxes, and retain skyline diffs, you end up with even more fun, as you end up with some pretty short ratios But yes, after having an LS in the engine bay, and a Barra in the engine bay of the same car, yep, the Barra is definitely easier to drop a Barra in. Plus, not many twits on this forum would put an LS in and then not add two turbos into it However, there's also less twits on this forum who'd put a Barra in and not turbo it either.... But I think we found both of them

The low down on this is, it's not terribly hard. Mine isn't finished as I don't have money to drop, or when I have money, I don't have time (I don't pay people to play cars for me). But if you have the money: Engine mounts are available off the shelf. I made my own, to get the engine even lower. The mounts aren't expensive. Gearbox mounts for 6 speed ford box are available off the shelf. For about $1,500 a custom wiring loom can be built for you (I modified my own factory Ford one) - Hootons Harnesses is my recommendation here. For about $400 someone will unlock the ECU for you. For about $100 you can get a bolt in accelerator pedal bracket. You will need a new radiator, or to modify an alloy skyline radiator. You need good thermo fans and a shroud made (electric fans). You'll need a custom tail shaft made. $1000-$1500? You'll need custom intake made, and a custom exhaust. You'll need a FMIC setup and intake piping to suit as part of the above. Custom PS lines, few hundred $$$ Then you need an engine and gearbox, these are not what they were worth when I bought mine, and I haven't looked super recently, but for an FG XR6T with Y speed manual, plan for a minimum of $5k, for second hand, 200k km + motors. Yep, expect to be looking at rebuilding the motor. Oh, and if you've gotten this far, and spent probably close, or over $10k in parts (before an engine rebuild, of which you should do a few mods to that motor even if you don't rebuild it) if you can't do the work yourself, throw another $10k in labour in, and then expect to have lifelong issues. Personally, the Barra fits and is easier than an LS swap. However, if you're looking for the "best" motor you can swap in, and not a budget limit, no BS, I'd 100% start looking at crate EV motors... Until you drive a decent EV, you've no idea how quickly they'll obliterate an ICE engine in a straight line and around a curve. However, don't expect to be able to do heaps and heaps of laps at a track day, as batteries will warm, and the control unit will lower power output when they get hot. However, daily driving, long term ROI, and avoiding potential issues with old ICE car tax in the future, it's a great plan! But an EV swap will suck the life and soul out of your skyline...

I can make it bright yellow for about $50 in Rattle Can paint. Then, in reality, it'll be like the yellow M&M. Yellow on the outside, black underneath! I actually washed it yesterday so I can advertise it. I really should write the advert now and post it, ha ha

Nah, I'm happy with just cash, I don't need two zinger burgers too, happy to help a fellow SAU'er out...

Can trade for 2010 Suzuki Swift Sport, cash my way. I know what I have...

Oh man, Id forgotten about the old cut the wire to beat the 180kmh speed limiter, ha ha ha!

Oxford dictionary agrees with your definition, but provides secondary definition, and an informal definition to also say they disagree with you. Ha ha ha I myself, for the most part agree with your sentiment.

If you'd have fitted that LSD when you did the clutch, you probably wouldn't need to worry about shutting the traction control off... See, we're all supportive here... Supporting/enabling, same same, yeah?

Have you sorted the whole "tearing sub frames out under brakes"? Also, what have you got done in the way of ducting to keep the brakes cool? What is the air into, and out of that area like for flow? Do you feel there's a possibility you're straight up lacking some cooling flow to keep things going? I know you've got a lot of grip, and power, but not even a full hot lap without fade on the original brake setup, I'd be expecting myself a TOUCH more out of them. But maybe that's just my personal view. Just thinking when the production car guys can go lap after lap after lap on stock brakes (yes with less power and aero, but a LOT more stops in a row). Just my thoughts on it.

That's fair that it won't be everyone's taste. I feel in person it looks different to the pics. I will say, as long as a daily driver looks okay, I'm fine with it. Ha ha I do have to question though, everyone saying diesel having all these higher maintenance costs. Even the Landcruiser guys claim the same stuff. But I've had my Landcruiser since start of 2015, and per km, it's costing the same to maintain as the petrol landcruiser. When I ask the question of what everyone is thinking diesel costs more for, I never seem to get any answer. I will say, around town she can be heavy on fuel at 14L/100km. And it's slow. On the freeway I'll get a best of about 13L/100km. Adding our old 3T plant trailer on the back of it, never really changed fuel economy at all. And well, I was already going slow anyway. Ha ha ha That being said, get it in the right gear, and she'll pull hills (slower than a comparative petrol), but definitely pulls better than it would if the motor didn't have the after market factory turbo on it. mine is also tuned conservatively too!

Are you thinking of the ioniq that looks wack? (Because the new ioniq 5 really does). I've got the 22 model EV, and it just looks like every other small/medium SUV.

My main issue I can see a problem with, is in reverse direction, turn one. From the video simulation (the pics they've uploaded previously don't show the changes fully to Final turn normal direction/turn one in reverse). Watch the simulation they've made, and in reverse, as you get to the first turn, you need to kink right, but until your right there, the old track for straight to the old turn is fully visible, and looks to be where to go. They've then dug DOWN, and made that turn heavily cambered as it goes back the "180 degrees" to the left. From old to new, if you went straight ahead, is a hefty drop. Or more so, a wild airborne ride... As I said, I rather waited to see what it REALLY ends up like, and how they actually do things at the track. But I can see potential on track days for someone to do a straight ahead, get airborne, and be T Boning a car that was previously in front of them. Basically, I'd think they'll have to put some heft tyre barriers there, but that's going to make for one hell of a brutal stop, especially for a bike rider...

Following the video Wakefield Park (One Raceway) posted on youtube of the track going in both directions, I'm intrigued to see what they do for running the track in the counter clock wise direction. Based purely from the track being made and put into a racing game, I can forsee some issues going backwards. They've also changed quite a few of the corners too. It's pretty much just vaguely shaped like Wakefield Park used to be.

If you like being able to get in a car, and it drive and operate like a car, DON'T get a Tesla. I'm presently driving a Hyundai Kona EV. We had a Tesla Model 3 with extended range previous to this, and a Hyundai Ioniq. Literally, Tesla is like an iPad application was made, and then they added a steering wheel and tyres. They're so freaking shit.

The old "Gentleman's agreement". They all kept publishing that number to avoid government intervention. They all kept pushing over it to be quicker than the other guy. It's why I'll say it's smart the Gen4 Supra was more suited/targetted to taking on freeway runs, than taking on the GTR directly. Nissan and Yoda rivalry slightly more apart receiving a little less criticism compared to the Holden Vs Ford in the years gone by with the likes of the GTHO etc.

See, Euro trash. Ha ha ha. And I have to say, you nearly nailed the description of yourself. But you can't be elitist if you can't look down on people. Or see what's on top of the Fridge.

As someone with an EV, who also does Bris to Sydney road trips, I can get from Bris to Syd in the same time, and a shit tonne cheaper in the EV vs the Petrol car. It's a slight change for SOME people in how you'd do the trip, but in reality, even for the cranky people who just want to haul ass and only stop once, it's still doable in the EV, it might make the people who are so dead set on pretending their in an F1 race pit stop take another 30 minutes to get get to Sydney. Then there's all the people who do a road trip like that over 2 days. Those people can charge the car over night! 😮 zero impact then!!! 😮 and then running around the city, from 0-100 it's like driving a gas guzzling sports car, with it always in gear for power, except, you pay only $3 / 100km to drive, when driving spiritedly! considering fuel around $2 a litre, it means still $9 cheaper per / 100km than a Hybrid Camry... (And I have a lot of experience on the Hybrid Toyodas too. Good cars, wanting the Hybrid Fortuner or Prado when it comes out for the missus). Driving the EV around, the other thing I never spend time in my life doing, is going somewhere to fuel up. I will agree 100% EVs are not for everyone. In fact, those who don't do lots of KMs each week, I'd tell them to be buying a Hybrid or full ICE. If you want a track/race car, ICE. The other thing when everyone races about long road trips and EVs, the reality is, people rarely take them. Most families, might do a Bris to Sydney style trip ONCE every four or five years. I used to do that trip, plus add to Canberra, and Batemans Bay in the same trip. And by used to, I'd do that about 3 or 4 times a year, for a few years straight. Ya know what I do now? I get on a bus. And by bus, I mean one that holds over 100 people, and can do about 900kmh. f**k boring road trips! Topic of Camrys being driven by scary people, I see wayyyy less of that in Brisbane. In fact, I'll say in Bris I don't look for any vehicles in particular except for old 4WDs like GQ or 80 series cruisers, and modern dual cabs. They're often maniacs. Other than that, every other car on the road has a 50 to 75% chance they're high, using a phone, asleep at the wheel, or just a f**king idiot with no perception of the world outside of them. Oh, actually, I do keep an eye out for the white Toyota Camrys. Mainly because they put sore loser lights in them. If they get beaten in a drag race or overtaken on the freeway, they start flashing red and blue!

Odd it doesn't have anti high jack. From what I've seen, the mirror dipping thing is normally reserved for the more elitist wanker class of JDM cars. Or euro trash.

Your motor felt fine though didn't it? Water on the floor isn't a feeling

And ran it super rich at idle, so dumping fuel out the exhaust most likely. Lean under boost on the highway for 10+ mins... No wonder the exhaust heat and CEL came on... Likely was detonating badly, plus running super hot...

I have come to find my 9x6.5 isn't big enough... Too many toys (tools)... I think it's time to wall in the car port bay and move some stuff... Hmm... Brett, update? How's garage build? Engine rebuild?

This thread needs more updates...