MBS206

I haven't weighed my setup, but Stu who put an LS1 into an R32 found I think a 20KG saving over the RB20 and it's gearbox. RB25 box is heavier, and I also had an RB30 block, with big heavy mani and turbos. So 40KG - 50KG saving at most I'd say. The big advantage is more the moving the weight from the front of the car to the middle of the car.

Hey guys and gals! SAU:New South Wales has decided it'll be so far between WakeField days we're going to go to Marulan Driver Training Centre on the 20th of August. Event: SAUNSW Marulan Driver Training Centre Location: 8 Prairie Oak Road Marulan 2579 Date: 20th of August 2011 What is it: A beginner friendly track day, with experienced drivers on hand to give you pointers. Entrants: $115 For Members, $130 For Non Members. Spectators: Free to watch Passengers: Free, MUST sign on, wear wrist to neck/ankle clothing with enclosed shoes and approved helmet same as drivers This is a safe event where you only go as hard as you want to, there's no pressure, there is a maximum of 6 cars on the track at a time. Perfect for beginners to have a first try at driving their pride and joy off the streets. Timing for the day; Scruitineering/sign on starts 8am. Scruitineering/sign on ends 8:45am (dont show up at 825am, come with plenty of time to spare) Drivers brief 8:45am with a track walk (mandatory attendance all drivers) Track time starts at 9AM, with 10 minutes per session. Gates close 5pm. (You have to be out by 5PM) Entrants please note: -All entered cars must pass scruitineering, no exceptions. -All drivers must be licensed (AASA, CAMS or MDTC Track licence) and show licence at sign on. -Sidepipes are not allowed. Screamers/external gates venting to atmosphere are also not allowed. There are noise restrictions at this site. No exceptions. -Entries are open now, entries close 5pm 13th August to allow time for officials to organise paperwork. -Supp regs and Entry Form are attached. Entry forms without payment will be rejected. -Yes you can join SAUNSW on the day (allow an extra 5mins at sign on) -Yes you can organise an AASA, CAMS or MDTC licence on the day (allow extra 10mins at sign on). -Entries must be paid 7 days in advance (Cut of is the 13th of August) -We will notify you as soon as the event is full. If the event does fill, and you do pay, we WILL refund you straight away, you won't lose anything! -An MDTC Licence costs $30 and is valid for 12 months. This licence is only valid at MDTC. NOISE REQUIREMENTS EXIST.ALL VEHICLES MUST BE FITTED WITH AN EFFECTIVE MUFFLER. Method for Testing Exhaust Noise: est 1: Maintain 5000 rpm for five seconds. Requires a reading of less than 92db when measured 5m directly in line with the exhaust tail pipe. Test 2: From the same position, return the engine to idle rpm then flatten the accelerator to 5000 rpm for a reading of less than 95db. This test can be done onsite on the day SAUNSW bank details: Bank - NAB Branch - Marrickville Account name - Skylines Australia NSW BSB - 082 356 Account number - 546 393 766 Please put your FULL NAME in the description, eg "MDTC JOE SMITH" The entry form is able to be filled out on a PC and sent to the address provided. MDTC Entry.pdf Because we have some spots left, we will be accepting entries up until Thursday 18th of August via internet banking, and if there are still spots left, we will take cash on the day.

How did you understand what the horse wanted you to do? Cause like, Mister Ed only spoke cause he had peanut butter right?

Going to use a standard starter. The rack is being moved to the drivers side a bit further. And yes, only one cam... So much cheaper then buying two... The idea is to have a moderate cam in it Mark. That way I don't have to rev it's tits off to have it make power.

It's going to most likely end up with a custom ground cam... Not overly too much bigger then standard, it will move the power band up slightly, but basically going for EPIC lift in it.

The shifter works out in nearly the standard location, slightly rearward, but because of the height of the box, the trans tunnel will need a slight mod around the shifter hole to allow the box to sit up all the way. The back of the box still needs to go between 1 to 2 inches higher when it gets bolted up properly, so the motor will tilt slightly further forward. Even more clearance... As to the rack, it actually needs to be moved to the drivers side a fair bit to make it fit. It's majorly in the way... A bit more obvious in person.

So, I gave myself a birthday present of a day off work, and decided to head up to take some snaps so Brad didn't need to worry with photos. From under neath Holden thought of the R33 when they made this sump... It fits perfectly... Supposedly a cat lives here... I'm going to need to change this This will cause issues... See... They do fit... Just... Although, it does sit nice and low... At least I can get to the gearbox bolts easily... Because of how well the sump fitted the cross member, it's staying where it is, as you can see, it could be shoved back a bit, but that sump is such a good fit!

Not yet. Stevo is still going through it all and sorting it out.

It could be that the ecu has a "summer" tune in it, an the ecu isn't adjusting the tune to the cooler temps appropriately and hence running flat and misfiring. And this is why a retune would help. But then you'll have issues once the temps warm up again.

Just wind the boost up a few more PSI to over come the weight...

I'd be in if my car could move.

Makes me want my R33 to be home already... Half way through the swap ATM.

I use and love the Adaptronic ecus. Locally made, with awesome support. Once setup any tuner can tune it. For skylines it's a matter of picking it in a drop down and its basically setup.

Wow... My intimidation skills do work...

Omg you awake too...? Lol You go out last night steveo or have you broken tradition?

What about welding the flange with it bolted to a spare block? Find one that someone has air conditioned? Also, will read link later. Haven't done stuff on flow in ages, it's all been forgotten!

Depends how big of a skid you'll rip... But spare tyres... Bring clothing for all weather, and have the car with only the necessities.

From what Brad has told me, and others have seen as well, the Ls1 and T56 are in and mounted. Last I heard te mounts haven't been 100% welded as Brad was waiting on the starter motor to make sure he only had to mod the rack and not move the motor further. Wirin loom should turn up to him in 2 weeks time and just need plugs put on it. Once it's mounted I understand we'll then be waiting on the front half of the tail shaft to be made. We spoke and decided on a 2piece shaft.

You've given me some ideas with these USB mounts Chris. Going to set them up for my Data logger and ECU so don't have ugly cables everywhere.

You can get a tool that bolts onto two of the bell housing spots, and it locks into the flywheel. I believe the Volkswagen one fits. I also just had some piece of steel around that fitted the above job perfectly.

Yeah... You know your old GTR brakes...

For flywheel bolts I've always just used a 1/2 inch breaking bar and socket...

If it's after/during a restriction, isn't that going to cause a "high pressure" point for it? Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you have a pipe, with something flowing through it, and you want something to be "drawn" or sucked into it, you would be better off putting an expansion in, because as the pipe expand, the gas flow slows down even though it would rather keep going, and as such puts a low pressure zone in... Isn't this the same theory the carburettor runs on? Run the airflow in, as it goes through the carb, it expands in size, and this is the point fuel is drawn in at?

Make sure you don't just randomly weld shit, cause if you don't do it properly it can vibrate like hell.

If you have a half or a full cage, you'll only be able to take one passenger...