MBS206

Half the time it's not the issue of the ECU, it's actually the serial - USB converter. Secondly, alot of business (IE not shit retail notebooks) have Serial ports on them...

Do you want to buy mine... With gearbox attached?

Not until the car is finished... LOL

The issue is, at idle, the car will still make the same power, so its breathing the same amount of air, and using the same amount of fuel. Once you're ringing its neck, you'll need more fuel higher up. Adjusting the base fuel pressure will richen up EVERYWHERE in the fuel map, not just where you need it. Save your money by NOT buying the reg or injectors, and get a PFC and have the car tuned. The stock injectors have plenty of head room for what you're going to do and will make the car WAY more driveable, and provide better fuel economy around town.

The Skylines aren't known for reliable fuel senders. Mine used to get down onto the E and you could only fit 43 litres of fuel in there... And that was with it sitting properly in the bracket!

I know where one is Chris... It's for sale too... Comes with a whole gearbox.

100% Agree. You can carry more corner speed, but you can also put down more power, and earlier on sticky tyres, and you'll work the brakes much harder.

The issue with if a bearing lets go, it's a full rebuild as metal will most likely be through the whole system (Head, turbos, blocks). If you can catch it before they properly let go, you can avoid it all... This is my personal thoughts on it after smashing a few motors...

Personally, if I were going to the trouble of a new plenum for running extra throttle bodies, I'd be going to ITB. personally though, you will find at your power level (Which for all the mods you have, only the exhaust is a power up) the twin throttle won't aid performance. It'll give a change in throttle sensitivity (Which many people see this as "response" but it's not) If you plan on doing some extensive head work (Costly) and playing with Camshafts, then I'd be looking to playing with a throttle body setup. Until then, you won't see a power gain, so it would be throwing away good money (Much like changing the fuel regulator). The injectors you should be able to get away with not needing to upgrade them or the pump for a little bit. The big thing is to work out what you truly want from the car, how long you plan to keep it etc. If you just want a little bit more, without spending millions for tiny gains. Exhaust, CAI with a good panel filter (Keeping the air box as there's no point making a custom box) and tuning it. From there, play with some good suspension, tyres and brakes.

In bold.

I believe there was some testing done showing after a minute the the turbo core temp rises again or something and can start to cause issues. Get the turbo time properly disconnected, and remove it.

Duncan, I have a decent one you can borrow, the only thing for the skyline is you need a lead that plugs into the bottom of the coil pack and then onto the spark plug... I'll see if I can find this lead too if you want...

Just spotted this... I did a head gasket on my old RB25/30. After I replaced the whole head and headgasket, the motor lasted long enough to be tuned, and into it's 3rd session at Oran Park... After that it smashed itself to pieces. When a friend stripped the motor, he found the oil pick up was basically blocked with milky sludge. If you can, get the sump off, and check inside.

You have to weld up part of the 25 head or the oil and water mix. It's in the RB30DET guide. If you didn't do it, you'll have to pull the head, weld it, and then have it machine.

Not quite.If it's tuned properly you should see better fuel economy. The RB30 runs the same bore, and a longer stroke. For the same amount of fuel/air being burnt, the RB30 will make more torque, as the stroke is longer. Remember torque = force*distance. Therefore you can close the throttle a bit more, to make the same torque. For example if it only needs 50nm (FOR EXAMPLE) to hold 100KM/H, and that's with your motor burning 100ml / min of fuel with a stroke length of 1. If you now double this stroke length, and keep burning the 100ml of fuel, the force on the end of the crank is the same, but the distance is double, therefore you've double your torque. So now for ever 100ml / min of fuel being burnt, you're making 100nm... But you only need 50nm, so you can close the throttle off, and use half the amount of fuel. Obviously volumetric efficiency etc comes into play, but going from a RB25 to an RB25/30 the VE shouldn't change at all... If it's not tuned right though, the same as the smaller motor, it can loose all sorts of cruisability and economy too... A perfect example of this was my old 25/30 as it was never tuned for under 2000RPM properly, so around town it used to get 25L/100KM and I had to cruise every where in 3rd.

The check valve won't let it into the sump. It's what makes the pressure remain in the fuel rail when you turn the pump off. It's normally just on the end of the fuel pump. If it's not working there is nothing to worry about, so long as you prime the rail before trying to start the car each time. The fuel in the sump would be from you starting it every single time and letting it idle rich. Pull the motor, put new bearings in. While you're at it, I highly advise new rings in as well. Then get your dump made, and just give it to a tuner so they can bed the rings on the dyno.

There are two functions for these covers... 1) To force the incoming air through the radiator to aid in cooling instead of going around and over it (It will go over once the bonnet rubber loses its "springyness" and doesn't seal properly. 2) For looks. They're designed to hide the "uglyness" of seeing the back of a FMIC and AC condenser/radiator...

You've had an engine freshly rebuilt. You've been starting it every few days while it's running rich. Two things: Rich cars wash the bores, fuel ends up in the sump. Freshly rebuilt motors don't have rings bedded in, aiding fuel in seeping through. You may be better off for safety's sake, pulling the motor, and putting fresh bearings in it. If fuel isn't seeping out of the injectors once you prime it, then you either have a faulty one way check valve or no one way check valve at all.

Why? Because I'm sick to death of the fact that these people (And others too) do illegal shit to, and in their cars, and then the media and police find out, and now we're a target. My R33 has been resided to the fact of "You don't get cruised on the road any more" because of the public image, and police attention. My road rego, now is only used to get the car to and from the track. I'd have a tow car and trailer, but I have no where to keep one at the moment. You have to remember, everything these guys do, affects the whole community. I watched a P Plater yesterday in an R34 GT give his car full boot in a fairly congested area, grab second, chirp the tyres, and then nearly run up the back of the stationary cars in front. We tried to show them the light, now we've resided to just ridiculing them, sometimes for our, and others amusement, but mainly so that hopefully they realise, being a douche, making their cars illegal, racing on the roads etc, isn't cool. It's the exact same theory the RTA had with the pinky curl ad, while we all laughed at it, it's true that if you did it at some monkey who was driving like a spastic, they started thinking twice about their driving... Same goes for the people in this seection with their driving, and how they modify their cars... Stupidly and illegally.

Guys, something to consider... If you strengthen the front reo, and make it like a huge bull bar, if you do hit something, you're going to bend what it's attached to instead. And that would be the chassis rails. The reo bar, radiator/FMIC are basically "sacrificial" in terms of mild accidents. You would much rather bend and break these pieces, then bend the chassis rails...

Thanks guys, Might be safer then for now to pull the welded diff out, and slip in my spare viscous LSD and just add a shim or two in there (It used to love to open spin). As Zeb said, my R33 is being built just for shits and giggles, and is currently part way through an LS1 with a T56 gearbox conversion. Motor will be completely standard, and just tuned with an exhaust... Expected RW outpu will be around 200 - 220RWKW. With the standard ratio skyline diff, I should be looking at the following speeds for 1st through 4th with a 7000RPM redline... 61 91 124 161 I assume this would be "short enough" considering it's a big displacement V8? You guys mentioned earlier "inserts" for the suspension... I'm going to be completely noob here and say... "Wahhh???". In terms of springs and shocks, are you normally softer or stiffer then circuit/tarmac cars? Currently the car has standard springs and shocks in it, but I was factoring into spending a little bit (Say upto $1500 on new shocks/springs) when I was going to use it for sprinting, and I probably would have bought the BC range of coil overs as I've been seeing some impressive results (VS the price of them), but I am completely in the dark on what would be acceptable in the dirt... I have adjustable upper and lower front camber arms, adjustable upper arms (Once I get back down to Zebra's anyway...), and would just be looking for a good basic shock and spring setup. What would you guys recommend?

At the age of 17 I bought an R33 GTS-t (going back 6 years now) and managed to buy expensive bits and pieces for it... I worked, did school, and paid for my own shit (And no, parents never gave me a cent for cars!) And the point for posting? Because there are so many people that come in here, claiming they've found the best thing out and it'll make the car gazzillion times faster, or better in some way and you can't get defected for it rah rah rah (Cause ZOMG my exhaust is quiet when I flick a switch), yet they're just making their car illegal, and defectable... Half the people posting in this thread, are the same ones who post the other crap threads in this section. Year ago, we used to be polite, and try to empower them with more knowledge, after years of having it thrown back in our faces, we just don't care any more and flame. Do you geddit or has it still not sunk in yet?

Why your car run so rich? Because race car...

Cheap skates was because you see most jap imports with china knock off parts on them. And check the other treads in this section, at least once a week someone starts a thread "omg I thought my car was going to be fast..." Secondly, you must be in this section for going fast... That's why it's the "naturally aspirated PERFORMANCE" section... Although, some people are confused on this and talkabout suspension and general automotive rather then in the suspension and general sections... Maybe there's alot of stupid NA drivers too...

If Cassbo has removed my clutch from his car, I'll have a 4.5kg chrome moly flywheel, 1250kg pressure plate and a standard clutch plate for sale for a couple of hundred... This combo held up behind a skid crazy RB25/30DET for a while and never had a drama. PM me if you're interested...