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Greg, I disagree with you there. A proper oiled pod filter pulls more particles out of the air, hence they don't go into your engine. So its better. But an oily filter that is not ment to be will be less effective. I don't run a AFM so I have an oiled pod on my car. I also had a R31 with a RB30E+T for 2 years. I ran a bov for 6 months. Then no bov when I got an FMIC, then ran a dose pipe for a year. Pulled the turbo off after that time and it exactly the same 'no shaftplay' that it had before. So from my personal experience compressor surge will not ruin your turbo. May be different with RB20 and RB25 stock ceramic turbo's. Anyway, toughen up, go over the pits, spend the money to fix it, and then you will be ready to breeze over it again next time. Good luck

Sorry to hear thats happening. Which suburb you located in? Have you gone to a place like dicksmith. I reckon small camera's are cheap these days. Good luck catching them.

Dude, cops can sticker you for anything. They will pull you over and sticker you often cos u drive an import. People got stickered for having a glove box that doesn't close, another guy for having a stock fan shroud which was factory. They can sticker you for bald tyres and oil leaks even if ur car doesn't have them. Cos you can't prove that they were like that when they pulled you over. Flutter is loud, it can cause air to pass back out of ur pod. The air will collect oil from the turbo. So either make ur pod oily or if just blow that air back out. If that air doesn't go out your exhaust (read catlytic convertor) and is burned it is considered an illegal emmision. That why u can't have atmo BOV's. Best bet is to have a bov that is plumb back if you don't want to get stickered. If your flutter is too loud it can be considered excessive noise. Thats what they wrote on my gtr bov that was atmo. Anyway, good luck getting your sticker off. I spent the last 2 weeks getting mine off.

Hey guys. I have a R32 with a stock RB25DET and a Wolf 3D v500 ecu, 3" zorst and FMIC. The boost controller is an electronic AEM tru boost controller. It was programmed by previous owner and his tuner. It was set to 12 psi making around 200rwkw. Since I got the car I got yellow stickered and turned all the settings down so that the car would pass the pits. So it was running 5-6psi. Now I have no idea what all the settings should be. I set boost back to 12psi, but its only running 7-8psi. I don't want to set something wrong and blow up my stock ceramic turbo. Link to boost controller page http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=68 Programming and installation guide http://www.aempower.com/images/products/In...s%2030-4350.pdf What should the parameters be set to? I read the programming guide and don't understand it. Scramble Boost: (SCb - 10.0) Set the scramble boost duty cycle output. Scramble Boost Time: (SCr - 0.00) Select the duration of time (0-25.5 seconds) Spring Pressure: (SPr – 2.00) Enter the waste gate spring pressure Boost Setting A: (AXX – A10) Set the output duty cycle (10%-90%) for setting A. Thanks in advance

What generic mods do you need permits for on a Skyline. I just got my yellow off, and got a FMIC permit. They said you don't need one for the pod if it secured. I got a reciept like paper about 8cm by 10cm. Is that the permit or do they give you a document? What about coil overs, can u get permits for them or anything else like that?

Yeh, the new clutch will no longer slip as much. It will lock in much quicker than before. So your wheels will get jolted and skip. You should also wear in the new clutch before giving it stick. Stiff suspension, and grippy tyres are also factors

Are the 7$ guage holder cups? or just loop metal ring brackets or like mound mold ones?

+1 for Bubba

It will sound like a subaru because its running on 5 or 4 of 6 cylinders. Check the leads, coil pack, spark plugs, injectors, injector wiring etc. these will cause ur car to miss fire permenently on a cylinder. Hence make subi noise. Most normal mechanics can fix this good luck.

is it manual? Edit: gratz either way *prays that its manual

I asked my friend who has greenline 3 gauges pod. http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpar...tegory=interior http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w240/fa...farrells041.jpg They cost 11,000 Yen ~ 150 AUD. So that price is pretty good from JJ, if they are really Carbonfiber. So best bet would be to use individual ones, and stick them together and in the same spot. I had a 2 gauge A-pillar mount and I couldn't pass the pits with it on. So yeh, good luck

Well I pumped up the tyres from 32 to 45. My all round clearance was min 120mm So I no longer have a yellow sticker. 2nd inspection took like 5 minutes, which was good. Thanks for everyones advice

You should check at Repco. They get whiteline bushes and bars. They should be able to order you some. 50$ a side if its a big complex bush

Does the car feel much faster? As if it running 0.2 more bar ~ 30 HP or so? Vacuum line is quite probable. Get plug/splice the vacuum line with another to ur turbo timer

Would it be the wire for the park brake light on the dash? Cos I don't think there is any other wire for hand brake there. Find the wire running from hand brake to dash-light

I have that happen in my R31, my R32 and my '85 Corolla. Its due to things that are more likely to make ur car drift. Hard suspension is more likely to cause ur car to slide in the wet. Narrow or old brittle tyres will cause it to slip. Going into a round about to quick is enough, coz a quick left-right turn can cause it to slide. If the LSD is too tight it might lock too quick, and drift. Be very careful in the wet dude. Its a death trap in the wet...

OK, I am going back to get the sticker removed for car still being too low. I have jacked up rear coilies as much as possible. Which was very little. Jacked up the front colies by 25mm. Put the cat on so that buldge is facing up not down. I have bolted up the bracket to the zorst to hold the system in place, higher. I have even put higher profile tyres on rear to lift it and even out how it sits. BUT my hotdog is still 95mm off the ground, not 100mm. I have run out of ideas to get the car to have legal ride hieght. Can I pump more air into the tyres so that they buldge in the middle giving me 5mm more hieght overall? What is the max you should pump up a tire. Normal is 32-36psi. Can I do 40, 50 or what?

Looks like a small vacuum hose. Will go back into the plenum somewhere. Looks like it connects to a solenoid there. Any bosy else know?

A manual conversion is expensive unless u buy a kit or a wreck. Also hard from someone who hasn't messed with cars much. There are a few nice R32's for around 10K. Get 3rd party. Full comp is silly for a 10K car I reckon. Only necessary for a 50,000K car i reckon

Yep, I will ask. But I reckon cops know how cops work and inspectors know what inspectors do. not visa versa. But it won't hurt to ask

I am keen for some hoon law corruption charges to be available soon, cops have way to much power to sticker cars. For ludacris shite. Get rid of old, oil smoking shitters with no brakes. not engineered R32 skylines BTW I went over the pits today. Was glad to see the inspectors at pits are good. looked at everything that makes the car road worthy. like all seat belts work, windows, lights, wipers etc. Degreaser is ur friend

Nope thats what most people on the forums do on the cheap. Its easy and works. K

Awwwwwto

Do whatever makes u happy man. I wouldn't bother. too expensive to get done properly. Real waste. Suit urself though