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I thought max gear was for manual box's that need manual oil. If you put in max gear its like 80% the price of redline and 90% the performance. So its good. But i want 100% performance. 5w30 is too thin for AU and a worn in engine. Nissan recommends 7.5w30. So for aus we need 10w30 or 10w40, not 5w30. Turbolite is an good oil. 8100 would have been better, its similar to royal purple, price/quality. Mobils good, but not great like motul/redline/royal purple. It should never crunch in gears. That is a box issue, not a clutch issue. Redline lightweight shock proof is most likely to stop all crunching, or make it better.

I read on the american site that Redline Recomend MT-90 for most nissans. The gearbox oil recommended for R32 and R33 GTST's are 75w90. The MT-90 is 75w-90. MTL is 75w80. Which is too thin for skylines for racing. But yeah the aus site says MTL for skylines ( both GTR and GTST) Spoke to the Redline distributor for AUS. He said redline only do not advise the lightweight shockproof to be used with most gearbox's with synchro's as there are llegal litigation issues in the US for it. So to cover themselves they say that. However he says the lightweight shockproof oil is magic for skyline gearbox's. He has had a box that didn't shift, and with the redline oil it shifted perfectly after. He said the lightweight shock proof is 75w140 and is good for skylines that see a bit of track work. Box can be in good or bad condition and it will do wonders. Also its only mineral oils that are corrosive as they break down after time from heat and being worked into acids which eats the brass and bushings. Redline is fully synthetic, so it won't corrode ur box. IMO Redline wins hands down

Spoke to the Redline distributor for AUS. He said redline only do not advise the lightweight shockproof to be used with most gearbox's with synchro's as there are llegal litigation issues in the US for it. So to cover themselves they say that. However he says the lightweight shockproof oil is magic for skyline gearbox's. He has had a box that didn't shift, and with the redline oil it shifted perfectly after. He said the lightweight shock proof is 75w140 and is good for skylines that see a bit of track work. Box can be in good or bad condition and it will do wonders. Also its only mineral oils that are corrosive as they break down after time from heat and being worked into acids which eats the brass and bushings. Redline is fully synthetic, so it won't corrode ur box. Also I have got some Motul Gear 300 oil for the diff. The stuff is 40$ per litre, but diff oil only needs to be changed every 80,000km, so its ok. I will let you boys know how it is.

Couldn't find the number on teh castrol website. I got some Motul Gear 300 oil which is fully synthetic ester oil which is $40/L, so ~ 80$ for the diff oil change. But that is only done every 80,000km so its fine. Will let you know how it goes when its in.

I went with Gear 300 as you only need to change diff oil every 80,000km. Considering its $40/L which is pretty much a one off for the 1.8L diff oil I need Will let you boys know how it is when its in.

Did you spend 10K on minor engine mods, stereo, kit and rims? Or was that 10K all engine work? Sell the GT, get a GTT or save money now and get a GTR soonish. N/A is silly if its a skyline. Remember whatever mods you put into a car expect it to not increase the value of the car by much at all. aka Money Pit

It appears we should not use LSD oil in the diff. So I am leaning towards Castrol EPX 80W/90W or Motul Gear 300. As they are non LSD oils

+1 for GTR

I am not sure now what oil to use in the diff for my R32 with a viscous LSD. I have done heaps of reading up on DIFF oil. But I am not sure what to use. I have a R32 GTST factory VISCOUS LSD rear diff, but R33 GTST engine and box. Some workshops recomend Motul Gear FF-LSD Type 2 Oil. But its not an active LSD, so it doesn't need the friction modifiers that 1.5 or 2 way LSD's need. The vicous oil that makes the LSD lock up it seperate to the other oil in the diff. So do you a slippery oil to allow the diff to spin nicely and not wear, or do u need a sticker oil for the diff to stay lube'd up when u thrash it? Otherworkshops recomend Castrol SAF-XA or LSX90 or Syntrax or EPX80w90 or VMX80. Nissan recomend 75w90 oil for the gearbox, similarly the diff. So would running a 80w140 oil be bad? Other's say that Redline lightweight shock proof is also good. But that stuff is very slippery and has had peoples diff's lock up too much around round abouts etc. Motul 90PA Differential Oil is what I plan to get, its a good mineral oil, I don't know if fully synthetic is necessary for a factory VLSD. The diff's are hypoid right, so do the oils need to specify that? Whats your opinion?

+1 for the small AZN phone stall in aracades in the city. I think the one in picadilly near roc candy is best. eg. brand new screen and install for N95 was 70$ and 10 mins.

Welcome. Read this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...s-2-t61392.html Search b4 making a new thread. Introduce urself in the above sticky thread. They just last much longer than copper ones. So yeh they are good. But some people prefer to change spark plugs like oil. Every 5000km. I don't, I am going for iridium ones

STFU, read below link http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

I am not sure now. I have done heaps of reading up on DIFF oil. But I am not sure what to use. I have a R32 GTST factory VISCOUS LSD rear diff, but R33 GTST engine and box. Some workshops recomend Motul Gear FF-LSD Type 2 Oil. But its not an active LSD, so it doesn't need the friction modifiers that 1.5 or 2 way LSD's need. The vicous oil that makes the LSD lock up it seperate to the other oil in the diff. So do you a slippery oil to allow the diff to spin nicely and not wear, or do u need a sticker oil for the diff to stay lube'd up when u thrash it? Otherworkshops recomend Castrol SAF-XA or LSX90 or Syntrax or EPX80w90 or VMX80. Nissan recomend 75w90 oil for the gearbox, similarly the diff. So would running a 80w140 oil be bad? Other's say that Redline lightweight shock proof is also good. But that stuff is very slippery and has had peoples diff's lock up too much around round abouts etc. Motul 90PA Differential Oil is what I plan to get, its a good mineral oil, I don't know if fully synthetic is necessary for a factory VLSD. Whats your opinion? EDIT: These diff's are hypoid right, so do the oils need to specify that?

I am not sure now. I have done heaps of reading up on DIFF oil. But I am not sure what to use. I have a R32 GTST factory VISCOUS LSD rear diff, but R33 GTST engine and box. Some workshops recomend Motul Gear FF-LSD Type 2 Oil. But its not an active LSD, so it doesn't need the friction modifiers that 1.5 or 2 way LSD's need. The vicous oil that makes the LSD lock up it seperate to the other oil in the diff. So do you a slippery oil to allow the diff to spin nicely and not wear, or do u need a sticker oil for the diff to stay lube'd up when u thrash it? Otherworkshops recomend Castrol SAF-XA or LSX90 or Syntrax or EPX80w90 or VMX80. Nissan recomend 75w90 oil for the gearbox, similarly the diff. So would running a 80w140 oil be bad? Other's say that Redline lightweight shock proof is also good. But that stuff is very slippery and has had peoples diff's lock up too much around round abouts etc. Motul 90PA Differential Oil is what I plan to get, its a good mineral oil, I don't know if fully synthetic is necessary for a factory VLSD. Whats your opinion? EDIT: The diff's are hypoid right, so do the oils need to specify that?

Were u talking to me? 250kw at the flywheel is around 250hp at the rears, with tha 25% drivetrain loss's, and the conversion from HP to kW.

Well PFC's are discontinued. Great ECU's. But they are expensive 2nd hand and new from overseas. The wolf 3d v500 has huge capabilities and parameters. Top racing has been tuning them for ages. The ECU may have been average a few years ago, but that would have been V2 or V3 not V500. The ecu's are Plugin Kits for Nissan R32,R33 GTST for $2,095. More people have gotten exposure to them in the last few years. So, its ur call.

RB25 turbo for now. $250-300. R34 Neo turbo will be too laggy, comp housing is too big for a 2L. 2530 for the RB20. If u get a turbo get a proper one. U will get tired of 200rwk. As the others have said, RB20's love a rev. 8000rpm's of it. So make it special. Get a 2530 which is a lil down on response, but much more up on power. A full turbo conversion costs $3000+, cos u need turbo lines and custom dump or intake piping. I wouldn't pay 3K for a 2510. RB25 turbo is a straight slap on.

+1 for great thread. Dude, don't get agro. ix9 wasn't calling u a dick. He was just being honest. Which I would appreciate. Don't get agro as if he ran over ur dog. But yeh, its unlucky. But thats how it is. So yeh, good luck. With the salary it should be ok. Cos its a % and I don't think they can take 100% of it

But those LS3 Clubby's weight 1800kg+. with 317Kw and more torque than a telemarketer. Power to weight is 170kw per tonne. So a R33 with 1400kg would need 250kw, =~250rwhp. Which is double. Just traction issues for both. More for 33.

ViPec? I wouldn't go there. Most people get PFC's andother full aftermarket ECU's 1000+ Semi ones like piggy backs etc. Common are Nistune on R32 ecu's (not for 33) or E-manage or SAFC II. 500+ Yeah, u can get HKS or Garret turbo kits's for 3000$. Do it Mines ecu's don't come tunable, I don't think. Or next to no-one in perth tunes them. You have limits on ECU's etc u have coz there might be tuners with little to no experience with a certain one. MTQ, Turbotec and P3rf0m4anz turbo's or whater ever do it in Perth. Or order a Highflo from GCG turbo's. One of the best hiflo companies in AUS. But yeah, there are also other ways to beat a car in a race. Better tyres, better brakes, smaller wheels/tyres (diameter) = quick acceleration, lower diff ratios, more weight over rear wheels for better traction of the line, but if rolling start race, then less weight.

Oh yeh, sorry. The F6 is 310kw. The old F6 is 270kw. The old XR6T is 240kw, new one is 270kw. I reckon thats awesome. So a G6E turbo = 270kw for 1800kg. similar to R33 + mods = 220kw for 1400kg. 220rwhp Then it depends on traction etc. or if its a roll on, torque etc.

Carbon fibre bonnet's are illegal in WA

High flow turbo costs $2000. Then u will need bigger injectors and fuel pump. An ECU would be best. Like Apexi Power FC or Wolf 3D. A R33 can't have its ecu remaped like a R32. So a SAFC or piggy back ecu would be cheaper, but not worth it. Check forced induction section to see what mods people have for what power. BTW, a G6E has a 4L turbo engine making ~300kw. A stock R33 makes ~187kw. My R32 with RB25DET made 220rwkw on a stock turbo, bigger fuel pump and with a WOLF 3D ecu. Oh ans search in the right section, don't just slap any random question in the WA section. This topic is covered every week.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hr-t191756.html they are the companies used by SAU members

WRONG Did you not read my post? I thought the reason redline don't recommend lightweight shockproof because it eats away bushings and brass parts. It would stop gears crunching for 20,000km but after that it would start to wear out other parts. Turns out they only don't recommend it, cos its too slippery for most synchro box's. I read now that its a fine oil for R33 box's. Its actually better than most other box oils. MT-90 (75w90) is recommended for nissans. MTL is 70w80. So its thinner. Thats from the site.