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Nissan's generally use 7.5w30. But thats for Japan. Where its colder. So a step up fo Aus would be 10w30 or 10w40. Synthetic oils are good. So Mobil 1 10w40 or Motul 4100 Turbolite 10w40 would be great. 60$ for 5L.

I read the crap out of that site last night. Very good. It specialises in all the great oils. Motul, Fuchs, Amsol, Mobil, Castrol (german) and Redline. So Mobil 1 is like 60-85$ per service for 5k? And Motul is 170$ per service for 10k? So over 5000km. Motul is 85$ and its a hard core oil. They agree that the Group V oils need time to activate and do not break down as quick as normal oils.

sorry for double post. But I found this on redline tech sheet

Woah, that was an epic read. Cheers man. So there you have it. Mineral oils should be changed every 5000km and 100% synthetic oils like Motul 300V which is a Group V oil can be changed every 10,000 miles. ~16,000km. But I would stick with 10,000km Go Motul 300V boys. Your RB will love it and saves u money either way.

Yerp the super expensive oils don't break down as quickly and take time to activate. Mobil 1 is a great oil. But I want something for skyline which is not generic/mainstream, for everyone with a commodore or corolla. A skyline is more of a race machine if it puts out almost double the power it did from factory. So it should have a more race type oil. Hence Motul. Skylines also spend more time in High RPM than the generic cruiser car. Hence u need a good oil for that. Could u please quote that thread or copy it or email it or something. I can't read i'm but am very keen to.

MT-90 is a high quality oil. It is 75w90, which is what most nissans use and is thicker than MTL. Its recommended to R33 gearbox's.

Have u asked J-shop or KYP?

Woah, that is crazy. Sorry to see the c**ts did that much damage. Any word from the insurnace company? Buy a GTS4 and swap the running gear etc across. There was one for sale for 6K with blown head gasket.

I would recomend a GCG hi flo. they are australia's garret dealer/supplier

Woah, ok thats good. If the oil lasts for 400,000km's. Now the only other query is if it is corrosive?

Check your boost guage. I have two seperate ones that run seperate lines. They both say -13psi when crusing at 100km in 5th at like 2700rpm. That is not ON boost. But if I then accelerate, because its high enough rpm for my turbo tohit full boost by 3000rpm. If u slowing push in the accelerator to hold a speed, then it will not be on boost, so hold it there to cruise. BUT if you accelerate hard and slowly let ur car come to a constant speed, then it will be on boost more so like -9psi, and u will hear ur turbo. An engine is designed to accelerate. But if u want a constant speed it is throttled (less air is given) so it doesn't speed up. Hence crusing.

Yeh, I ran 218rwkw on a stock turbo. Some dyno's read higher than others. But eitherway +/- 20wk and it will sound better. Can stock turbo's put out 200rwkw then R31Nismoid?

Isn't a self cancelling steering wheel run of two bars on the back of steering wheel. These wear out. So a new steering wheel and boss kit has its own two bars, that are new, so it will self cancel again.

Do we have any pics of his car yet. Haven't seen it in either of the threads. can someone please add one?

A car is never on boost when doing a constant speed in high gear like 100km/h in 5th. It will idle at like -20psi. And cruise between -10 to -15 psi. It will only be on boost at +1 or more boost. Due to it accerelating.

You either have to get ur stock turbo high flowed. They machine out the housings and then put in bigger STEEL wheels. So you can run more boost reliably and flow more air. Hence make more power. But you loose responsiveness and get more lag. You can buy turbo kits like the HKS GTRS turbo kit for RB25DET for around 3000$. A highflo'd stock turbo will be 2000$. Otherwise with most aftermarket turbos u need custom oil and water lines and custom dump pipes made up.

No there are several expensive motor oils that are group V, higher than full synthetic oils with double esters and stuff that lasts for 10,000. Doesn't get dirty as quick or break down as fast.

Nissan recomend you change your gearbox oil every 80,000km. I read that the Redline Lightweight shockproof oil is for race cars with dog box's etc. So it made to give max performance not necessarily max duration. So it only last 20,000km before the compounds of oil break down...

Thanks dude, that helps heaps hey. Cheers for taking the time to type up that post

Woah dude, that sucks. Sorry to hear. Good luck with the insurance and stuff

Ouch, u can buy 2nd RB25DET turbos for 300$ on SAU. Why would u pay anymore for a turbo that is ceramic. Anything over 1000$ should be steel and preferably be ball bearing. So get a hiflo RB25 turbo for 2000$ or a GTRS for 3000$ in a kit

RB25DET injectors are 370cc and purple. Same as SR20DET injectors from S14's and S15 autos. Aus and Jap. The SR20DET injectors from a manual S15 is teracotta/brown/maroon. They are 450cc. GTR injectors are 440cc. These injectors would do 250rwkw - 280rwkw easy.

Mobil 1 0w40 should be changed every 5000km Motul 300V 10w40 should be changed every 10,000km. so $85/5000km for mobil 1 and $75/5000km for Motul 300V (5L for both) Motol is the best oil for your car. Nismo use Motul in their cars.

Yeh, I want new oil for my gearbox to feel a lil bit better and last long. So I would need something like Redline MT-90 which lasts for 80,000km, unlike lightweightshock proof which lasts 10,000km, and box wears faster. Cheers

It doesn't matter. Its presonal preference like I said. The difference in belmouth and split is minor if any at all. SO JUST PICK ONE. They are both 100% better than a stock dump pipe setup. So get one. Whichever style u prefer EDIT: I have a belmouth and would buy it again if I had the chance. The splitter in the split one can be a bit fiddly