Krille

Yeah i used all the Neo sensors, it wasnt that much work really, only had to cut out some small part of the R32 Dash, the R32 fuel signal worked fine with the R34 cluster, same with the hicas speed pulse wich comes out of the cluster, and the rpm signal worked fine since i used the neo Ecu, there are some pretty good wiring diagrams of the clusters in the manuals wich is availble around the internet. I only had to bypass the Motorised throttle for the R34 TCS system to get the Engine warning light to turn off.

ive done this with my R32 GTS-T, i used the Neo loom along with the the ecu and all, i also exchanged the the dash cluster, since i also put in the Neo gearbox that only has pulse for the speedo. but i got everything to work and all, only had some minor problem bypassing some stuff for the engine warning lamp and so on

Thanks for the tips, gonna try this next time on the dyno then, hopefully this weekend

Im trying to get some infos on what rpm to activate the VCT controller when using Link G4 plugin system, standard ECU activates it on pretty low revs if im not mistaken? The engine and head is pretty standard, atm running 370hp on the wheels, but the power curve is first raising at 3000rpm (Where the VCT is not set to activate) then it goes down a tad, and after 4500rpm it goes up, gonna push out some more Hps soon just had to replace the FPR, and gonna try get the curve a bit smoother. Or should i disable the VCT completly?

I own a R32GTS-T tho, standard height on suspension, i have until now used 18inch wheels with no problem. I have at this moment fitting a do luck kit, and for some reason the 18inchers looks fairly small now som im thinking of rolling out the fenders and getting some 19inchers. does anyone have 19inch wheels on the R32? and how much problem will it be. also some pics would be nice of the R32 with 19inchers, mainly with a r32 with some sort of bodykit.

i must have managed to give the tps a push cause it was the problem, it was set all wrong

was gonna fine tune the idling cause it was a bit high. After this the car has good idle, but as soon as the rpm goes over 2k i cant keep a steady RPM cause then the engine cuts out and comes back as soon as the rpm is under 2k, but if i floor the pedal the engine runs good all the way, i tried set the idle back where i had it but the problem is still there now. anyone got any good ideas? whats the factory setting for the idle and TPS sensor?

Hmm okay heres a weird one for you all. Ive checked and double checked most things now, till i tried stopping the vacum pipes to different sensors, and when i stopped the vacum to the standard mapsensor the car suddenly gets good idling? what i know the standard Map sensor only have mission to check for over boost? next question, can i just plug the hose going to the map sensor and run like that? im using both Emu and Apexi AVC to control everything, or will the standard ECU go into fail safe if it doesnt get readin from the standard map sensor in some time?

checked timing now, somethings messed up there, unplugged the TPS and checked, i couldnt see the timing marks then, pulled the cas max to retard, then i got the marks to 25degrees, what more controls the timing?

just but as i said ive changed intake manifold for an aftermarket one so i can have a topmount turbo, this new large intake doesnt have have the intake part for the idle valve in the back cause there is no space, so its fitted on the underside pointing down

just had everything apart and checked and fixed before i put all together, the IAC valve is now located under the inlet så cant be taken out without removing the engine... is there a posibility that you have to adjust the idle screw when you change manifold?

tried tighted the blow of valve spring more but no difference i only hear the flutter if i rev the engine pretty high, forgot to mention that also when its warm the car is often very slow to start

Ive mounted a rb25det neo into my r32gts, also done a top mount conversion along with a bit inlet manifold and 90mm throttle body, and new 630cc injectors, also mounted new splitfire packs and iridium plugs. also mounted a greddy Emu, also walbro fuel pump and removed the control unit for standard fuel pump and replaced it with a relay. the car runs fine except most times, happens alot then the car is warm, when im stopping and lights and such the car dies, sometimes the rev goes down to 1k idle then drops down and engine stalls, it can go into idle if i help with the pedal a bit, but then the idle is around 600rpm, and then when im give it a small gas it dies, but if i give more gas it coughs and then goes up and runs fine. if im looking at the log in the Emu, when i get the car idling the ignition jumps around a lot, could this be just the TPS thats in wrong place, tried to adjust it but not sure where it should, at one part i didnt get any idle at all, at another part i got very weird rev, jumped from like 1200 and 800 up and down, apart from this the car runs fine when im driving, only doing like 1bar atm, but nothing seems unstable with boost and vacums and such also have Hks Ssqv and ive tighted the spring a bit. ive also mounted the R34GTT instument cluster to get the speedo working, and ive checked for codes using the engine check light, but ive connected different parts to get all codes away

Im wondering whats the easiest way to convert the T3 exhaust flange to the one that skyline uses, im not really sure what kind of flange they use, the elbow has 6 bolts and most flanges i found only have 5 bolts... im thinking of somthing like this but converts to the skyline flange if there is such thing...

just checking, maybe there is anyone here that has a pretty okey map for R34GTT mostly standard, just want to boost like 0.8bar or something atm