Krille

Yeah i used all the Neo sensors, it wasnt that much work really, only had to cut out some small part of the R32 Dash, the R32 fuel signal worked fine with the R34 cluster, same with the hicas speed pulse wich comes out of the cluster, and the rpm signal worked fine since i used the neo Ecu, there are some pretty good wiring diagrams of the clusters in the manuals wich is availble around the internet. I only had to bypass the Motorised throttle for the R34 TCS system to get the Engine warning light to turn off.

ive done this with my R32 GTS-T, i used the Neo loom along with the the ecu and all, i also exchanged the the dash cluster, since i also put in the Neo gearbox that only has pulse for the speedo. but i got everything to work and all, only had some minor problem bypassing some stuff for the engine warning lamp and so on

Thanks for the tips, gonna try this next time on the dyno then, hopefully this weekend

Im trying to get some infos on what rpm to activate the VCT controller when using Link G4 plugin system, standard ECU activates it on pretty low revs if im not mistaken? The engine and head is pretty standard, atm running 370hp on the wheels, but the power curve is first raising at 3000rpm (Where the VCT is not set to activate) then it goes down a tad, and after 4500rpm it goes up, gonna push out some more Hps soon just had to replace the FPR, and gonna try get the curve a bit smoother. Or should i disable the VCT completly?

I own a R32GTS-T tho, standard height on suspension, i have until now used 18inch wheels with no problem. I have at this moment fitting a do luck kit, and for some reason the 18inchers looks fairly small now som im thinking of rolling out the fenders and getting some 19inchers. does anyone have 19inch wheels on the R32? and how much problem will it be. also some pics would be nice of the R32 with 19inchers, mainly with a r32 with some sort of bodykit.

i must have managed to give the tps a push cause it was the problem, it was set all wrong

was gonna fine tune the idling cause it was a bit high. After this the car has good idle, but as soon as the rpm goes over 2k i cant keep a steady RPM cause then the engine cuts out and comes back as soon as the rpm is under 2k, but if i floor the pedal the engine runs good all the way, i tried set the idle back where i had it but the problem is still there now. anyone got any good ideas? whats the factory setting for the idle and TPS sensor?

Hmm okay heres a weird one for you all. Ive checked and double checked most things now, till i tried stopping the vacum pipes to different sensors, and when i stopped the vacum to the standard mapsensor the car suddenly gets good idling? what i know the standard Map sensor only have mission to check for over boost? next question, can i just plug the hose going to the map sensor and run like that? im using both Emu and Apexi AVC to control everything, or will the standard ECU go into fail safe if it doesnt get readin from the standard map sensor in some time?

checked timing now, somethings messed up there, unplugged the TPS and checked, i couldnt see the timing marks then, pulled the cas max to retard, then i got the marks to 25degrees, what more controls the timing?

just but as i said ive changed intake manifold for an aftermarket one so i can have a topmount turbo, this new large intake doesnt have have the intake part for the idle valve in the back cause there is no space, so its fitted on the underside pointing down

just had everything apart and checked and fixed before i put all together, the IAC valve is now located under the inlet så cant be taken out without removing the engine... is there a posibility that you have to adjust the idle screw when you change manifold?

tried tighted the blow of valve spring more but no difference i only hear the flutter if i rev the engine pretty high, forgot to mention that also when its warm the car is often very slow to start

Ive mounted a rb25det neo into my r32gts, also done a top mount conversion along with a bit inlet manifold and 90mm throttle body, and new 630cc injectors, also mounted new splitfire packs and iridium plugs. also mounted a greddy Emu, also walbro fuel pump and removed the control unit for standard fuel pump and replaced it with a relay. the car runs fine except most times, happens alot then the car is warm, when im stopping and lights and such the car dies, sometimes the rev goes down to 1k idle then drops down and engine stalls, it can go into idle if i help with the pedal a bit, but then the idle is around 600rpm, and then when im give it a small gas it dies, but if i give more gas it coughs and then goes up and runs fine. if im looking at the log in the Emu, when i get the car idling the ignition jumps around a lot, could this be just the TPS thats in wrong place, tried to adjust it but not sure where it should, at one part i didnt get any idle at all, at another part i got very weird rev, jumped from like 1200 and 800 up and down, apart from this the car runs fine when im driving, only doing like 1bar atm, but nothing seems unstable with boost and vacums and such also have Hks Ssqv and ive tighted the spring a bit. ive also mounted the R34GTT instument cluster to get the speedo working, and ive checked for codes using the engine check light, but ive connected different parts to get all codes away

Im wondering whats the easiest way to convert the T3 exhaust flange to the one that skyline uses, im not really sure what kind of flange they use, the elbow has 6 bolts and most flanges i found only have 5 bolts... im thinking of somthing like this but converts to the skyline flange if there is such thing...

just checking, maybe there is anyone here that has a pretty okey map for R34GTT mostly standard, just want to boost like 0.8bar or something atm

another question here, i cant get the speed limiter to go away, what i red you just choose disable under preferences i did that but it still cuts at 180km/h, is there anythiner more i need to do? ive checked the logger and the Emu gets right speed signal and all

ive just mounted the Emu into my R34GTT engine, my question is since this enigne uses a mapsensor for boost cut, do i connect this to the analogue in/out put and then set these in the program as pressure in/out and choose the hitachi map sensor in the droplist?

and if you use the Rb25Det neo computer it will save you on the fuel also i think

ive completed this project, well almost something is still wrong, i cant get the car to run properbly when its warm, but according to diagnostics its the knock sensor so i will dig into that during winter. but ive now got a RB25DET Neo engine in my R32GTS, along with the gearbox, after a couple of late nights digging into the wiring diagrams i got it working,and after some minor connections it works pretty good, except the warm thingy, problem i got when i was done was that the speedo didnt work, since this gearbox dont have any output for a wire, but along with the car camed a R34 dash, so i started modding to make it fit so now that is also sorted, this was pretty neat also since now i can use the built in diagnostic thingy that is in the ECU, oh and yes i also use the Ecu that camed with the engine

ive got an R32 with a R34GTT engine in it, i get error code about the "throttle motor position sensor" problem is i dont have TCS, so the Throttle motor part isnt connected to anything, neither is the sensor, but the Ecu has a pin for the sensor, anyone know how to bypass this? the malfuncyion light is led cause of this so no idea if the car is in "home run mode" cause doesnt run right, i tried feed the sensor with 5v on one pin and the other into the ecu, but no difference, the sensor has 3 wires, one goes to the Sensor ground other 2 goes to the connector for the throttle contorl box (wich i dont have)

yeha gonna try that, anyone know if RB26 and RB25 has got same coilpacks? cause i know a scrapyard thats got a r32Gtr somewhere

okaj yeah o opened the box for the Afm to check em. okay but if the car runs fine when its cold, could it still be coilpacks? the engine has aprox 1300miles on the neck so havent gone far

yeah they are both plugged in, i tried to earth the one for the temp gauge and it went to the top, if i check the plug for the gauge it has a small +voltage when not connected but when i connect it to the sensor i get nothing when i check with volt meter. i checked the coilpacks, they look as good as new, anyway to test em? gonna check wiring on the the Afm, i checked the soldering for the connector but it seemed fine

tried new plugs today, no difference, no idea what to try next really

Ive got a R34GTT engine in my R32GTS-T, just got it started, problem tho, when car is cold it runs fine, no problem at all, except that the temp gauge doesnt work, thinking it could be that the engines sensor using other data then the standard one. Now when the car gets warm, it idles perfect, but when you floor the pedal, and as soon as the car comes into boost it starts to run bad, like on 4 or 5 cylinders, same happens if i pull out the temp sensor for the Ecu, just get higher idleing then. ive checked the spark plugs they seems fine, anyone got a tip on this?