Simonster

yes you do...

he he, Id LOVE TO. I wish i could, looks like ill miss the the next timeattack round in March. I just haven't had any time to get the RB25 fixed Update with the GTR, the cam timing ended up being the culprit as expected. Changing cam gears. Sorted the inlet timing and she's now got 260hp on 6psi. Fixing the exhaust timing tomorrow, so it's looking promising so far.

PM sent Luke

he he , its much more interesting sitting back and listening to you guys think about it out load Between the lot of you, you've got it, just need to work out what "it" was... Craved, you know me better than that, a side-on shot will give my funny little game away. Remember, i said i wasn't going to just blurt how its done, that just wouldn't be as much fun as this.!! Besides everyone now knows, if they didn't before, how awesome your coatings are- the candy apple red is just friggin bewdiful! Fainlly got my Ross balancer- its the stealth black one Car is back in the shop with a few little things getting sorted, should be back by mid week if not earlier. Then i can put some km's on it and take it back and lean on it!! She was a bit doughy off idle but think we've sorted that issue. Shit myself on Friday- thought it'd had a major failure but turned out that one of the turbo's oil drain had a slight leak and was dripping down straight onto the front pipe flange and soaked into the gasket which caused white smoke to complete fill the shop when started. After a hour or so of thinking, fcuk it's gotta come back out, we found the sneaky culprit- beers all round In the end i put a standard water pump back on it instead of the N1. This is a street car. The clutch Dave from Wrights Clutch Service in Lismore NSW made me feels like something you'd find in a Ford Fiesta, but hangs on harder than Oprah on a baked ham!! Still to fit the second 044 pump and surge tank, will do that after ive run it in some more. But i did install the Siemans 870 injectors Air con is now cold again and power steering leak sorted. Can't wait to get her back and drive it!!

Engines at a workshop in Raceview- Ipswich

Some fantastic info there by discpotato- good to see it all in one place!! To further add to the mix, don't be put off by the "small" 0.73 ex housing. How it performs will depend on a number of things. Ex manifold, cams, porting, inlet manifold etc etc. I have a HKS 3037S (so the external gate) 56T trim (rated at 480hp) with 0.73 turbine housing. I run a 6boost ex manifold and mine reaches 19psi @ ~4000rpm. My engine also pumps out ~420rwhp so don't consider the "small" ex housing restricting top end. Have fun picking a turbo

Injectors SOLD Rest still available. If the engine doesn't sell, i may keep it and replace the 25 that's currently in my S13

My track car isn't a GTR but RB25 powered, i get out of it when it's gets to 110C but then again i also change my oil after every track day Need a bigger oil cooler.

In all seriousness, dont. Its something he has spent a long time on worked out and i wont just give it away. As i said he's on holidays, another week to go. But i doubt he'll give it as it's his proprietry. Just like some shops with their engine "secrets".

Dude, use the search feature, this has been covered countless times.

No brand, the hp rating is a bullsh*t number anyway, it's all about torque. It has a clamping force of 1210kg. Its says 1350kg on the pressure plate but that is inaccurate. Had it tested by my clutch guy in Lismore-NSW. I know it won't hold 600ft/lbs because thats why i had a new one made I can ask him to to work it out, if you want to know a hp figure?

offers?

To tidy this up a little RB26 engine, number one bearing out of round, rest good crank fine. Includes block standard rods, forged pistons of unknown brand, looks like 20though oversize, head, cams, greddy cam gears, inlet manifold, throttle bodies, sump with trap doors but no diff. Throw a new set of bearings and rods at it and off you go! $2000 R34 N1 turbo's. cartridge number 707160-4 Good condition, one compressor has some minor pitting, minor though. I will supply actuators $1200 Probably should have kept these to use on my RB2630 but bought -5's instead;) Injectors Sard 700cc's currently in my 2630 engine, i have Siemans 830's ready to slot in their place. $600

Alright so no one goes off an a tangent, the subframe hasn't been changed, its standard. I didn't say any of you are on the right track.... just that thinking caps are on.......

AWD dyno kills the attessa as you've just found out. You need to run it in RWD mode on the dyno to prevent drivetrain issues. Sure it works for a short time but in the end they don't like it. I pull the fuse i the boot

mmm thinking cap in the right place there! The imprint from the twin turbo badge was before the mods were done. You are correct, the bonet closes with no problems The cam cover does not touch the bonnet Mick ( who made the engine fit ) has gone on holidays for 2 weeks, so until he comes back i can't really so yes to how it's done, i'm waiting to hear is he is willing to give away his secrets.

Adding to what Kristian has said, i'm in a good position to help. I have a manual Legnum (the wagon) a 32 4 door, a 32 GTR and a Sil80RB25 powered. SO i can speak from experience I call them a businessmans EVO. They have a fantastic ride - mine came with Tein super streets, very sedate valving and spring rates, not stupidly stiff like a lot of tein stuff but the damping is very very good. It's probably put out around the 125awkW standard. They ALL run stupidly rich standard ( mine now runs a Haltech miniceptor which lets you change boost ignition and fuel) the driveability is now brilliant. The engine is a torque monster, it will pull from nothing but the urge is from 2200 to ~5500. They will rev to 7000 but you're wasting your time, it's all over by 5500. It's like driving a V8. Parts are becoming more common but nothing like the availability of Skylines/silvias etc. Trim is very good build quality excellent, it's a soildly built car. The evo's of the time are cheap plastic and tinny. The Legnum/Galant is so much more refined in every aspect. People harp about the brakes and brembo upgrades. Im my assessment a decent set of pads and fluid is enough for 99% of driving. If you want to track it- and realistically probably 1% do, then like anything, a track compound is a must. Practically, most come with a 3inch cat back, if you change the front pipes (available from www.rpw.com.au) and the standard cooler and run 12psi that'll see with with ~165-175Kw. Mine has this and let me tell you, the thing leaves my 420rwhp Sil80 until around 130km/h during roll-on tests!! I don't have any plans to make more than this in it, i think is as much as you'd need on the street. Like i said previously the response is just mind blowing. I get around 10km/L others get 12-14 but i have had the miniceptor tuned for economy as well. This does make a big difference. Hope that helps? Cost, depends where you get it. Iron Chef is an almanac on the things and has imported a large % of the cars of the guys on website. Talk to Kristian, he'll sort you out

Many thanks

stevo has listed them in reverse order, it's the first one i was referring to.... hmm good to see you've got your thinking caps on, keep going!!

Thanks, that's great, i was actually interested in what the letters following the model number related to- the RXFSLMZG?

Engine/Car: RB26 R32 GTR Type of failure: big end number 1 cylinder. caught it quickly only bearing has damage crank etc v good. Factors influencing the failure: stupidly human error, low fuel level, with new car, moderate cornering 3rd gear. engine coughed a few times- note to self: fit surge tank, remember how low fuel gauge showed, don't do it again d*ckhead State of tune of the engine:PowerFC, forged pistons, cams, 34N1 turbo's, 700cc inj 044 pump, splitfires etc 333kW Suspension and tyres: no factor Oil used and service interval: Motul, I'd just bought it, according to owner apparently well, but after seeing motor apart, probably only had 1 oil change in 2.5 years and 7000km's General comments: expensive lesson, however got to build my 26/30

That's cool, thanks for looking it up!! I'll now go and find out what it all means

I didn't say they were dash 5's i said the actuator from the dash 5's will be supplied, as these were opening at ~18psi and not the psi i wanted to run the engine in with. Hope that clears up the confusion. These are R34 N1's, i've tracked down the serial numbers BNR34 (N1)......Serial No. 14411-AA402 (Ball bearing centre) Here is the compressor wheel from the front turbo. Some minor degradation as i mentioned, This is the rear turbo, blades in good condition.

Thanks Bundybear, however the number doesn't look correct? Looks like yours is 0000210, should be 0002019 Thanks again Simon

Ok, here are the N1 turbo's that were on the RB26. The front turbo looks like it's operated without a filter at some point. Compressor wheel has some deterioration of the blades, nothing dramatic. I'll supply the actuators that came with the dash 5's, i tested them and they min opening psi was 18.