bodge

I nearly went for a borgwarner myself but this setup came up for a good price so I went for it. I was going go for a 8374.

I nearly went for a borgwarner myself but this setup came up for a good price so I went for it. I was going go for a 8374.

The exhaust on the car is the same the only difference is the front pipe. The size is 4 inch for the front pipe and 3.5 inch the rest of the way. It is a race pace item.

Late last year I changed my -5 set up to a to4z setup. The most I could ever get out of the -5 set up was 380rwkw. Even though the dyno stated that power it never felt like it. I took it back and they found that it was only only making 330rwkw. They found a few problems which they tried to rectify and the best I could manage was 365rwkw on pulp and 25psi of boost. I changed to a to4z with a .84 rear housing and on 20psi it now makes 415rwkw. It is a little more laggy compared to -5s but once on the roll the big single certainly has the muscle in the top end which is what l wanted. Although I have not run it yet, it gives you an indication on what power you can expect if you change over. At the end of the day the decision is up to you.

R33 Gtst RB 26 powered Built bottom end Tomei type b cams High mount manifold To4Z turbo with.84 rear housing Turbo smart pro gate Hks ignition amplifier Tomei in tank fuel pump Tuned on united 100 octane pump gas 20 psi of boost 415rwkw

I would like to make around a little over 400RWKW, the exhaust housing size l am using is .84 and the head has had no porting.

I am currently in the process of changing my low mount setup which has standard cams to a To4z setup and, while l am at it l would also like to change my cams. The cams l have been looking at are, Camtech cams 272 with a 9.7 lift Kelford cams 272 with a 8.9 lift With these size cams, from people's experiences do you have to grind the head to give the cams clearance? What do you guys think of these cams for the this setup? Taking into consideration l am not into circuit racing, it not an everyday car, just a weekend car which will be used on the odd drag day. Thanks for your input

Just wondering if anyone has put one of these turbos on a 2.6 and what was the out come. I am interested in the version with the 1.05 rear housing that runs external gate. Thanks.

Thanks to everybody who replied. From what l have can understand rb 26 rods can punch well above there weight depending on how it is tuned and staying below 9000rpm. Its a shame when the motor was built they didn't use aftermarket rods as it has everything else to support big power.l guess it all comes down to what you can afford at the time.

Hello l would like to know has anyone here pushed rb26 rods passed 400RWKW mark and beyond and how long they have lasted? The reason l ask this, is my friend just picked up a TO4z kit for a steel and although he has a built bootom end with supporting mods with the exception of the standard rods he would like to know how far he can safley push it in its current form? thanks.

The comment of changing to smaller wheels will give 300kw. Thats what gave it away.

l thought it may be race pace from the comments you posted that is why l asked. If you are not happy get a second opinion.

Who tuned your car?

Have you looked at Jim berry clutches. I remember reading a while back a VL turbo was using one of there clutches and did multiple 9 second passes and was still easy enough to use on the street. I wouldn't mind betting that it would be a cheaper option as well.

l have had os giken and now a copper mix (car is making a over inflated 380rwkw), l would rather the os giken although it is a little heavier to use l find it had more feel and you could ride it more in traffic where the copper mix l find it is either on or off.

I'm not saying that over filling the sump caused the pumps to fail. I just thought l would mention it as it was brought up in this discussion.

I know of 2 guys both using n1 pumps and over filled there sumps by 1 litre and still managed to smash there pumps. If money is not a concern I would go for the tomei pump for peace of mind as it has been proven that they can take alot more punishment and being based on a 2jz style of pump you don't hear of them having any problems.

Car was placed on 2wd dyno and have the dyno sheet. It was also taken to the drags and the best MPH was 121. As for Nismoids reponse, the car has been checked over by another place for the simple fact l wanted a second opinion, and will take it to Racepace when l have time.

JAGR33 No l did not buy the car from a previous Racepace customer and all the mods that have been done to the car were done by Racepace. As for taking it back there for another dyno run l am have not done that as yet but, l have placed it on another dyno just for a comparsion and result l got has really pissed me off and confirms my suspicion that the figure l have been given and using the amount of standard components on the car is misleading and from a over inflated dyno. As for your comment as something may not be right, everything has been double checked and turns out to be O.K. I understand your point that peak power is what is required for a quick drag car, but given the claimed power figure l got from the Racepace dyno the car should if everything else is perfect dispatch a high 10 second pass. Going from other cars as an indcation some having less power than my car it is far from it. I will take it back to Racepace after l have claimed down to see if they can find a problem.

Race Pace say it makes 380RWKW, l don't. Taking into account the amount of stock components the car still retains, makes the claimed power figure seem like hocas pocas, and driving it indicates that it is a highly inflated power figure. The reason l asked about dump pipes is l would like to hear someone elses point of veiw if they would make a difference as l think having standard dump pipes from what l have read may be a key factor in holding the car back. As for them buliding quick cars? maybe going around a circuit this holds true, as for a qiuck street car with the odd trip to the drag strip, going by my example l am not so sure if the above statment holds true.

Beer baron do you think changing dump pipes makes a big difference. I have standard ones on mine. I am running -5 turbos making a very optimistic claimed 380 rwkw. The reason l ask is l am pondering on the thought of replacing them with either tomei ones or Greddy ones with the separte outlet divider pipe for the waste gate. P.S my car was built by race pace and thinks it won't make that much difference and not worth the trouble.

Seems that you talked about it yesterday and he is your friend, l do believe you but that does not mean my car can achieve the same result. As for putting the car on the dyno. On the weekend there was a dyno day in my local area. l ran my car on the dyno taking into account that the dyno had its correction factor turned on and lets just say the power reading was way off, which confirms from what l am saying that the original dyno figure which as far as l know did not have the shoot out mode turned on is way off the mark but l do not want to get into into a debate how dynos are all different. This is the main reason why l keep ranting on reguarding my setup and the power figure.

I would like to see that. l heard it was 11.5 at 127mph. Trust me l am using the "pedals correctly", l have been in a few 10 second cars and have raced a few ten second cars and there is no way in the world these super piss ant -5, with standard dump pipes running 25 psi of boost can cut a 10 second pass taking into consideration all of the other supporting mods are stock standard. I think we should agree to disgree. If you think GTRS with lady boy -5 are quick then good luck to you. As for my car making a claimed 380 rwkw, if it did why do l get my doors blown away with cars with less power? l think it proves a point that the dyno the car was tuned on is optimistic and if it is a true figure, l must be the only RB26 powered skyline in the whole of Australia making 380RWKW using stock standard parts.

The cars l am talking about that have big singles, have similar power to what my lady boy setup has, some have even less. From my personal experience my setup is no match for single setups. There may be alot of other factors that influence this, as my setup as you problably already know uses alot of stock standard components which in my opinion hinders my setup and gives me some doubt that the power figure that is quoted for my car is very optimistic. As for -5 being better around a circuit l do agree to some extent and can see where the benifit can be from using a twin setup where it comes on boost earlier and has more bottom end to punch out of corners. As for application l have no intention to chase other people around a circuit. My purpose was to have a quick street car that has the ability to run a 10 second pass with a change of tires and most importantly when it comes on boost you get that shove in the back and it puts a smile on my face, which at the moment it does neither.

Nismoid, my car is making a "claimed" 380RWKW on 25 psi of boost and was built and tuned by the same guys that have done your car. Comparing it to other GTR's running big singles such as a TO4z which is what l wanted to do in the first place but talked out of, stating that a twin setup using these lady -5's will be quicker. From my experience when both cars on a rolling start and in there boost range the big single always wins and feeling you get as you are thrown back in the seat is much more intence. The only benefit l see using my setup is the stock appearance and it may have a little more bottom end, which at the end of day l would rather have something with more top end and doesnt tapper off like my lady setup.