Rob260

Hmm had a workshop that deals with both tell me that skyline bushes are taller... But maybe they meant GTR? Any first hand info would be useful

And yes I do mean SUB frame...

Can anyone tell me? Thanks in advance

That's not bad. Get tools direct quoted me $860 but I can get one from a distributor in Sydney for $800.

I'd be in for a group buy on the IR tool...

Just did a quick browse. Metabo it looks like sell for $680 or so and 210nm max torque, the IR sells for about $800 but aroubd 1000nm max torque. For the sake of $100 or even $200 it's a MUCH better tool...

IR or Metabo? Cause mate if the price is right I'll get you to mail it...

The one I bought is still enroute from UK -not cheap at about $250 delivered but as above still half the price of the Wurth kit and looks to be a very good tool (good reviews etc online). Only goes to M10 (Wurth goes to M12) but TBH I really can't see myself using much bigger than M6 and the occasional M8. Will let you guys know how it looks when it turns up.

Cheers will check it out, any thoughts on where to buy? I realise I should just buy a compressor, but I like the portability of cordless IF it has enough grunt...

OK so the rivnut thing is sorted, got another query. Who can suggest a good 1/2" cordless impact wrench? Something that can handly stubborn crank bolts. Ingersold Rand make some f**king awesome gear in their 20v range but the charge accordingly.... Any ideas?

So I priced up a Wurth rivnut tool set and even on account it's a cool $550. Just ordered the memfast one for about half that price...

That Wurth kit looks good -their tools are generally quality too

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set. Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year... Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

Because they can't afford a Z chassis

I did one of Ian Luff's courses many years ago at Oran Park (yeah, it was THAT long ago) -was a great experience

Fantastic, looking forward to this!

Can I book a spot?

....Alloypro (again). Can repair and repaint in house.

Can do Rhino RAV3 for $150 delivered. Features three on-board immobilisation points, glass break sensor and turbo timer function, black wired and Australian Standards Approved (insurance approved). Three Automatic Immobilisers Intelligent Glass Break Sensor Intelligent Dual Stage Shock Sensor Data Battery Back-Up Siren Door, bonnet and boot protection Central locking from the remote Turbo Timer Functions Alarm control via vehicle factory key Courier function Each kit includes 1 x ASA 3-Point Engine Immobiliser 2 x 4-Button Rolling Code Waterproof Remote Controls 1 x Mini Coded Backup Battery Siren 1 x Glass Break Sensor Drop me a PM If you want to order one

Save yourself the trial and error and grab a set of Nismo rubber bushes from rhdjapan

*Nat at Gladesville Auto Bodyworks. Phone number is 9817 3233

Fordy short answer is a lot... This was done completely from scratch so there's a lot of time measuring/checking/fitting/checking/measuring.... You get the idea. It would have been much cheaper to buy a glass bonnet, or two or three glass bonnets haha. I'd rather not put a figure on it, and the cost is always going to vary car to car anyway. If you're interested in doing something similar give Nay at Gladesville Auto Body a call and organise to bring the car in. I'm sure he'll do his best to give you an honest estimate.

Little bit more progress, again this is really just for anyone who is interested Taking aaaaaaaages but as I think I've mentioned it's a fairly small job for the shop and I told them not rush, so I'm not disappointed with the timeframe. Anyways here we have the vent modified to fit and the bonnet under primer. The louvered section is curved more than it was in the pics above so as to clear the front of the motor. Nat (owner of the panel shop) measuring from the cross member to the bonnet. It wasn't quite sitting flush behind driver side headlight, wasn't fouling on anything so trying to work out where the problem is. Everything checked out so some gentle massaging in order. No idea why, I suppose these things happen when you're dealing with second hand bonnnet going on a 20yr old car... The sheet alloy is very thin too so may have warped slightly when the frame for the duct was being welded in. Ok and one last shot with everything lined up nicely. Still far from finished, still gotta chop & fill a fair bit, then get some mesh in behind the ducts. Hoping to get it to the stage where the bottom is painted and the mesh is in, high fill, install (and adjust anything needed), then block it back a final time with it on the car. I've got different front and rear bars to go on too so will aim to get the lot painted at once and blended through the guards and doors nicely. Long project but paying off and hands down the nicest bonnet I've seen on a Z32 to date.

For Haltech? JEM +2

Stock turbos will be very responsive and easy to make 250rwkw with E85. Stock turbos make an easy 220 with bolt ons Dyno below is when I first bought my car, it had an HKS pod filter (which are crap), 2.5" cat back exhaust, and a GFB manual boost controller Throw in intercoolers and you could wind the boost a little higher. Throw in more fuel and you can go a little higher again. On E85 it'll smash 250 out of the park with an even better curve. Consider for E85 though you'll want bigger injectors, probably Sard 800 just to be safe.