Rob260

Hi, yes I would consider separating -hit me up with an offer.

Hey Guys, selling the Power FC setup that was used with my big Z32 motor. Replaces AFM with MAP sensors Allows 20x20 mapping Currently tuned for Nismo 740 injectors All sensors, wiring harness and plugs are (included as pictured below) ready to fit. The hand controller can be used for tuning, and also displays the following InjDuty - Injector Duty / How busy the injectors are IgnTmng - Ignition Timing - Camshaft timing AirFlow - Airflow meter voltage PimVolt - Map Sensor voltage Eng Rev - Engine revs Speed - Road speed Boost - Boost Pressure (requires optional boost kit fitted) Knock - Knock sensor reading WtrTemp - Water temperature or engine temperature AirTemp - Air inlet temperature BatVolt - Battery voltage The hand controller also records maximum readings, so you can review max water temps/injector cycle/air inlet temps/knock numbers etc after a drive. I have found this feature particularly useful. Also included in the sale is a Greddy multi switching unit. This was used to run the VTC on my VG30DETT, and the second output was used to run a thermofan. The Greddy is a two channel arming switch that can operate on anything from one to three paramters via the factory ECU or via external sensors. It can also function as an alarm/warning unit. This would suit someone wanting to run thermo fans, water/meth injection, nitrous, whatever... Price: $1800 the lot, including freight, or best offer Location: Sydney (North) Condition: As New

Silva33 how much was the dashq? Does anyone know the price of the Ruzic unit? Link looks the nicest so far but $900 ain't cheap...

Thanks guys, exactly the response I was hoping for. I'm still waiting for my email confirmation for the Vipec forums, but have decided that Link display is perfect for my needs. Beer Baron -Mark at MRC Dyno in Castle Hill is doing my install, I'll let you know how much the display works out at.

Thanks mate I'll look into it. Yeah I know the display is not a "must", but having that info in reatime on the Power FC has saved my arse once or twice before (had some teething type cooling issues) so it's something I want to hang on to if I can.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of changing my Z32 from Power FC D-Jetro to Vipec. One feature of the Power FC that I will miss is the hand controller display, and the ability to show peak duty cycle/water temp etc. Simple, but something I find myself using everytime I drive the car. Does anyone have any suggestions for a display (with similar features) to use with the Vipec? I know the AIM units are compatible, but entry level MyChron series is close to $1k and very bulky. I don't need lap timers etc, just something that will show me a digital readout similar to the Power FC controller. Race Technology http://www.race-technology.com/display_products_8_921.html have some compatible units, but again hard to find something that fits my needs! The Dash 1 http://www.race-technology.com/dash1_8_939.html has everything I need (including alarms etc, and I like that it can display analogue signals too) BUT if I read correctly needs to be used with an external data logger. The Dash 2 http://www.race-technology.com/dash2_8_940.html seems to be OK for stand alone display but again very bulky. I'm hoping to do a DIN slot install similar to the Microtech dash in thie car http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8247469&keywords=Nissan 300zx&tsrc=allcarhome&__Ntk=CarAll&__Nne=15&__Dx=mode matchany&__D=Nissan 300zx&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=1303D861374F&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=1&__Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Cr=12&__Ntt=Nissan 300zx&trecs=140 Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

Hey guys, looking for a full time/Monday to Friday worker AND a casual/weekend worker to come do automotive battery sales and fitment for me in Hornsby. Tools/vehicle/training all supplied, no qualifications needed but must have some auto common sense. Thought it may be worth posting here as I know car nuts are always on need of some $$, even if you lot may not be as hard up as us z32 owners haha. Pm me if interested.

Looking for staff again, prefer long term monday to friday type but will consider casual. Drop me a PM if interested.

Doing a bit of a cleanout, I'm sure there are some guitar/bass players on here... This ever popular tuner from Korg is accurate, stable and easy to read thanks to the large LED display. Details: A fully automatic, compact guitar and bass tuner. Affordable auto tuner for guitar and bass ? Easy-to-read LED meter ? Dimensions: 5.30(W) x 2.01(D) x 1.00(H) ? Weight: 0.25 lbs. (including battery) Condition: As new, battery (9v) not included Location: Sydney (North) Price: $55 delivered AUS wide Freight: Included in asking price or pickup from Hornsby area

Hey guys, I organised the group buy at aus300 site and do alot of web based stuff with UAS. Spoke to JP today he has sets of arms currently in stock, I think it was thirteen sets. I doubt there will be another group buy on these so if you want a pair grab them while they're in stock. You can contact UAS on 02 9620 9000 or email [email protected]

Hi matey, I'm in Sydney, 26 yr old and have a very modified Z32 insured through Shannons with premium around $1300... Agreed value is significantly higher than what you have, and I have full salvage rights. Garaged 24/7, limited use, with Australian Standards Approved alarm/immob. Don't know why your premium is so high? Actually having just reread your post is your alarm aussie standards approved? Most of those GSM ones aren't, might have something to do with it?

Still on the lookout, drop me a PM if interested

Looking again... I have a good SAU member working Tuesdays and Wednesdays, but need someone who can do Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays. Drop me a PM if interested.

I hear what you're saying, but I have a valuation from a certified, licensed, practising valuer that puts market value at $48,500 to $50,500... so the guy on the phone is talking out his arse. Also very hard for anyone to put a value on this kind of car as they are so rarely traded. The last comparable car that I know of being traded was this one that sold for $35k and yes mine is a huge step up. FULL ENGINE REBUILD ACL pistons UAS valve springs Cometic head gaskets Bakelite gaskets UAS custom cams Shot peened linished forged conrods +ARP Bolts Removed water hoses under plenum Balanced Extra water holes drilled UAS Motor sport GT28RS Turbo kit Ported heads Extrution honed HPC coated manifolds 2 Corner mounted ram pods 3" Exhuast from engine following to twin 2.5" Full mandrel bent exhaust, high flow cats and stainless x-muffler (measured at 89dB at 3200rpm stand still) 2 twin magnaflow with UAS X centre muffler Power ported and polished plenum chamber Ported 55mm throttle bodies UAS Front mount intercooler UAS Superlight flywheel GFB Hybrid blow off valves TurboSmart eBoost boost controller Tein Flex suspenion Battery mounted in boot UAS 40mm alloy twin pass radiator Microtech computer and dash display Sard fuel pressure regulator Nippon Denso fuel pump Nismo 555cc custom top feed fuel injectors and rail UAS 6 puck button clutch Urethane engine mounts (heat wrapped) Adjustable radius rods UAS Oil cooler 4.11 ratio diff. UAS 324mm brake upgrade. 17x8" HR 109 mags (front) 18x9" HR 109 mags (rear) Full bodykit. Big sound system. At the $50k figure I'm after it's a lonoooooooong way from what I've spent! But regardless my frustration with LSV is not that they won't insure for $50k but that I have a written quote with a $50k agreed value that they have renegged on after I have spent the time and money meeting their conditions.

Yeah... Basically I got a quote emailed to me at $50k agreed value, and the fine print says that the maximum payout will be at market value until I provide pictures etc so that they can confirm $50k agreed value. I sent pictures etc to the rep via email and he phones me to say the most they will agree to pay is $35k, but will go to the $50k if I can get a certified valuation that puts the vehicle at $50k. VIP wrote me up a nice valuation putting market value at $48500 to $50500, and replacement value in excess of $70k. I emailed this valuation to LSV last night, and they called me this morning to say that the manager had gone over everything and that he "knows alot about imports" and the very most the will agree to insure for is $25k. So in short 1)the manager is a complete idiot and 2)I have been royally f**ked around by LSV. They certianly won't be getting any business from me and I will be warning others to stay away.

So I got the valuation back, VIP did a great job and came back with a "replacement value" figure that was very realistic, and a "market value" that was in line with the $50k I want to insure for. I forwarded this to LSV who have unfortunately recanted on their offer to insure for the appraised figure, and have now come back with an offer of $25k agreed value??? What a joke. So in summary VIP= fantastic service and thoroughly recommended Lumley Special Vehicles= Complete dickheads Back to square one for me....

Thanks for replies so far guys. Nar, I'm going for a very conservative figure.... probably the cost of parts for the rebuild rather than a "start over" price.

Got another set up for grabs from round 1. Guy has no job and money is tight... $197.50 to whoever gets in first. Re timeframe there is minimal work left, just a case of when the tooling turns up.

Hey guys, wondering if anyone here has any experience having their car valued? I've just finished a big Z32 rebuild and am shopping for insurance. Even Shannons fall around $15k short of what I'm after.... I have receipts for well in excess of the agreed value I'm chasing, and LSV say they will insure it to my price if I can provide a valuation from a certified valuer. A licensed dealer won't cut it, got to be a valuer. Has anyone gone through this before? Must be some guys on here with in excess of six figures spend on their cars, what do you do for insurance?

Hi mate, not 100% sure how fatz is doing things BUT the way I run it on aus300 is money due when the parts are ready to send. The balances (plus shipping where applicable) get paid direct to UAS. You will have to clear that up with Fatz though if you are part of his group buy. Won't start taking orders on these until the first batch is out the door. It's great that so many of you guys are keen but I think taking orders for a second round with the first still overdue would be asking for trouble.

DSTROY has got these, was first in with the PM by roughly two hours. There is already a second run in the pipeline that will be much smoother as tooling etc will already be in place. There is enough material to make another 30 arms but need to get the first batch out the door first.

Hey guys, I have had a buyer pull out on AUS300. If anyone wants to buy his order you will need to pay $197.50 deposit. Drop me a PM, first in first served...

Copied from aus300 website... So I went out to Bosenjack engineering today to have a look at these things for myself and get some up to date pics for everyone. Tell you what they put on the best smoke and mirror show I have ever seen. Awesome workshop, very clean and well equipped. Terry is a tope bloke he took a good half an hour off to show me all the bits and pieces, draw diagrams, answer all my questions, etc etc. But I guess you all want the pictures? For starters here is a shot showing all of the pieces made up and ready for assembly. I will save black baz the trouble and point out myself that the bits are in fact silver, not black (or paisley, tartan, plaid ) as previously indicated. This is because the zinc coating process for black is not perfect and can result in a slightly tarnished finish. An executive decision was made to get these done sooner with the better finish than to bugger around trying to get the black finish perfect. And this is what they look like assembled Terry's work is far better than the prototype that was supplied. For starters the end pieces are not just welded. The large section is notched and dowl pinned, and the small piece has a ball end at the T piece so that it fits together and is then welded. See illustration below. The parts have all been heat treated and hardened, and the arms are completely serviceable. As discussed at some length, the fixing system now uses a cotter pin instead of a grub screw. For those that were as confused as I was, the advantage with a cotter pin is that it is a tapered thread with a nut so that it positively fixes into place and cannot come loose. The picture below shows where the grup screw was used (see red circle) in the original design. See below for an illustration of how the cotter pin is used in the new arms. Have to stress this is not a brand new design, it's an improvement on the what Terry was originally working with. So what's the holdup? As I mentioned before the cotter pin is tapered, so you have to drill the tapered hole before you make the pin. At the moment the guys are waiting for the tooling to turn up so that they can drill and make the pins. The remaining labour is minimal, as in less than a day to finish the set. As soon as the tool turns up we are all good to assemble.

I had my 'cooler done in a graphite based coating.... Supposed to help with heat exchange. It wasn't expensive and looks pretty good. I have no idea where you are located but if you're in the Sydney/Central Coast area call Stuart at pro-coat 0407 895 044 It turned out like this

Try Unique Auto Sports in Seven Hills, 02 9620 9000 or ASR Automotive in Castle Hill, 02 8677 3000