DEATH

yeah racepace were going to send me across the street to the auto elec but he said he will come around to my place tomorrow as I'm only down the road. I was just hoping to try and sort it out before it got to that. Does anyone know if the turbo-timer is connected through the ECCS relay? I'm now also wondering if the ECCS relay could be faulty. Guess I will find out soon enough :S Thanks guys

To note : their was burnt tracks on the PFC originally (which is what was fixed) - and the PFC was staying on after the ignition was cut. It seems like some of the dash lights are still on when the car is dieseling and even for a seconds after the car has come to a complete stop. I hear a click (near the passenger side footwell where the PFC is) and then the dash lights go off.

I'm not sure if the wiring has been modified for the PFC? Will the standard ECU still slot in and work? I'm not sure how aggressive the cam gears are set. RacePace did a full tune on it and did set the timing (but it was dieseling before and after that - after the PFC was fixed and the car was serviced). I have tried changing the spark plugs but strongly think it is a faulty PFC or it might even be the turbo timer - but I don't know how to remove that RacePace weren't too worried about it when they saw the car, but it is driving me nuts.

Hi Thanks for the reply. Car starts first shot. Car drives fine. Car diesels for about 5 seconds after ignition is cut (Regardless of temperature). Unfortunately I don't have a hand controller to see if anything is coming up / nor a standard ECU. Car only has exhaust/pods/splitfire coils/adj. cam gears/Larger FMIC (standard AFM's/injectors/turbos/cam/fuel pump etc). I've had issues with the PFC before so if I could try another ECU to eliminate it as a problem would be awesome. Auto-elec is coming out tomorrow afternoon, but if I can save myself a $200 call out fee would be awesome as I'm not currently working.

Hi Guys, Need some urgent help in the SE (Glen Waverley) - looking to try another PFC in my car (just need to plug it in, turn the car on and off and then unplug it) - should take less than 5 minutes if some kind soul is able to help out. Need to do this before tomorrow - so any help will be appreciated! Let me know ASAP - happy to negotiate some form of compensation for your time.

Thanks heaps guys - I'll give them a ring in the next few days and post some photos up after the jobs complete cheers

How did you fry it? Have you found anyone local to have a look at it?

SE Suburbs - Around Glen Waverley

Where abouts in Melb are you located man? Kick Star Auto-Electrics in Scoresby are awesome - if you are around the SE suburbs, give em a call and they should be able to come out and see what is going on for you. (03) 9763 3066

How much are you willing to spend? And what condition do you want it in at the end? Obviously you can take it to any body shop and get them to fix it (they are usually the most expensive option, but will give the best results - probably anywhere from $400 - to a few grand depending on how immaculate you want the car). You can enlist the help of a mobile touch up specialist (who will come to your home/work/school whatever and do all the repairs onsite - would be anywhere from $200-$350 and give decent results). Or you can paint match and get the aerosols yourself and try your hand at repairing (mask all the other painted good surfaces, prep the area, and lightly mist on the paint until it is at the desired thickness and coverage). Last option will be the cheapest - so it's really upto you?

A'PEXi themselves can repair it (usually only $50-$100) - but you will probably have to send it off and be without the unit for awhile (although that is definitely your safest bet as I'm sure they will do it properly). Most local auto-elecs will be able to fix it - but just be careful, I've heard them charging upto $700 for the repairs on PowerFC's (which kinda defeats the purpose seeing as you can source second hand ones in working condition for that much). Unfortunately I can't recommend any good ones in Canberra

Hi thanks for the reply - I had a look at the FAQ but couldn't find it in there (also went through every post on here and google with the search terms power fc - so you can imagine how many hours it took for me to trawl through them all lol). Basically I want to transfer my maps from my power FC to another unit - but when I spoke to a tuning shop here in Melb, they said the models have to be somewhat compatible - otherwise there could be issues and/or another semi-tune would need to be performed to iron out the kinks (obviously they can supply a new unit and do a full tune, but I want to try and keep the costs down). So I'm trying to find out the closest match possible to my current unit (if it is a straight map swap, I shouldn't even need a tune). Guess it doesn't matter too much to most people seeing as they will be just upgrading from the stock-ECU, and as long as they have the right PowerFC for their engine, they will be fine. Maybe it's useless information and I'm just being pedantic *shruG* but I think it would be good for anyone buying second hand units as obviously the different revisions (and batch cycles) most likely have slightly upgraded software etc and it also helps with finding the right commander to match...

Hi Guys, Just wandering if anyone has any good experience with mobile detailers in Melbourne? I need a good clay/cut/polish (incl. door/boot jams and engine bay cleaned and the exhaust polished up) and some minor touch ups done on the GTR - would much prefer to have the car at home in the garage being worked on, then taken to a shop. Google has given me many results - but obviously I value peoples opinions here so any names/numbers would be much appreciated! Thanks

Hi Guys, I had a search, but couldn't find this specific topic and if this is in the wrong sub-forum, mods please feel free to move it at your discretion thanks. As there are many Power FC models - I'm trying to get a breakdown of the way Apexi released their serial numbers. So far I have found: PFC RB26 XXX-XXX (Older Power FC's) PFC GTR33 XXX-XXXX (Standard Type - Less Recent) PFC GTR33L XXX-XXXX (For L-Jetro normal version Power FC) PFC GTR33D XXX-XXXX (For D-Jetro Type) Obviously PFC = Power FC RB26, GTR33, GTR33L, GTR33D = Car/Engine fitting type But what are the 3 and 4 digits after that? If anyone knows this information and what each bank/number signifies exactly or can shed better light on the topic would be much appreciated.

Great Advice man - thanks 114dB at such a close range wouldn't be good Now I just need to find somewhere to source the Siren!!

Thanks guys - I have a feeling it is a vacuum leak or the PowerFC has somehow lost it's tune. I'm going to check the sparks/coils/AFM's tomorrow if I get a chance, just to rule them out - and going to have to start the slow process of removing everything to check all the vacuum hoses. If anyone in Melb (around Glen Waverley) wouldn't mind coming down with their PowerFC sometime to plug in to see if the car starts and idles ok - (will only take 5 minutes max or less if it's already out of your car) would be much appreciated.

What state are you located in?

Hey man tried to pm you but it is saying you cannot receive any new messages - can you delete some and hit me up please

Thanks heaps for the response man! Unfortunately I'm in Melb so Carbon Car Systems is out I called around another few places today - one guy actually wanted $108 in addition to the replacement part price (while that doesn't sound completely excessive, especially if he is going to pull the whole dash out and rewire the whole thing, but from speaking to him and grilling him a bit - I got the feeling he was just going to cut into the old wiring). But you have been a great help and have given me a lot more confidence now - so I'm sure I can do it myself! Cheers

Thanks for the reply and information guys and yes I am going for heat range 7 Hadouken! Picked up a set of BCPR7ES today from Autobahn for $29.94 ($4.99 each) - but thanks for the offer Kudos - I'll be hitting you guys up in the next few weeks though to get a few bits and bobs

As a side note - Car is not blowing smoke (weird seeing as it would always at least puff out one dark cloud on startup) - so not sure if it is running very lean now. And it is quick to rev and is happy to rev up the RPM range (although you can still hear/feel the misses during this time and I haven't wanted to keep revving it alot and to very high RPM incase it is running lean and decides to go *POP*). So I don't think it is the CAS (but could be proven wrong)...

So I've been searching this site and google for the past 4 hours - either my brain is fried (as it's almost 3am and all the threads I'm reading seem to contain people talking about RB20/RB25 GTST, GTT etc and mixing all the information and replies up) so can anyone tell me what the difference is between these model numbers? BCPR7E BCPR7ES BCPR7EY BCPR7EIX DCPR7EIX BKR7E BKR7ES BKR7EY BKR7EIX PFR7A PFR7B PFR7G R5671A R7238-7 R7436-7 I'm looking to replace my iridiums with some copper ones and from the list above what would suit a 1993 RB26DETT engine running 1.2 bar and splitfires?

Hi Guys, Just wondering if any of you have changed a M80 siren? As far as I can tell the replacement Battery Back-up Siren only has 4 wires - I'm thinking of just disconnecting the battery and connecting up the wires appropriately. This looks like a very easy job - but I was wondering is there any tricks that need to be done before hand or afterwards in order for this to go smoothly? The Auto-Elec wants $50 to do this (but if he is just going to splice the wires and connect them up - it sounds like a 5 minute job) - Don't want to sound like a scrooge but the money will be better kept in my pocket if this is the case. Any advice would be much appreciated

Hi Guys, Just got back from overseas and needed to start the car after letting it sit for quite a few months. Car was serviced before I left for overseas and has only seen around 100km's since that time (mechanic drove it from the shop and dropped it off, and I took it for a quick spin to get washed) and was running completely fine after the service. Today I decided to start the car and take it for another wash - It kicked over first go (I thought the battery would have drained by now but it didn't which was a good sign) - but I noticed it was missing heavily and very rough at idle (engine shaking/surging) - after a minute the car stalls. It did manage to kick over a few more times and has absolutely no problem starting - but continued to sound very erratic and kept stalling after a minute or so. I've uploaded a short video, and while I know it's not the greatest and there are probably heaps of variables - I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction as to what to look for. There is no way I can limp it to the mechanics like this as it keeps stalling - so I'm hoping it will be a simple fix (leaky vacuum or something)? I did a search but doesn't seem like anyone has the exact problem I do nor on my engine. The car is a 1993 R32 GT-R - it does have a powerFC and splitfires but standard injectors, pump, AFM's, etc. http://www.filehosti...12/IMG_0466.MOV I stopped the vid just before the car stalled. I'll have to pull the plugs + AFM's out tomorrow when the sun comes up to check them - but if anyone has any advise before I start would be greatly appreciated (hoping to save my knuckles if I can)!

How much for shipping to melb?