cactu5
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Everything posted by cactu5
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I'm after an AFM for my R32 GTR. I'm hoping to pay as little as possible Contact: Julian - 0401 88 5555
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Hi, I recently fitted a new water pump for my RB26 while doing a rebuild. It began to leak water, and when it was pulled out it didn't appear to fit correctly meaning: "The pump had different bolt spacings, and the hole they provide is elongated". I've discussed this with the people I bought the part from, they are not entirely sure on which part it should be. The part that has been fitted on the car is W900, this shop suspects that maybe it should have been W898 and apparently they have two reference points that say different things. I was wondering if anyone has fitted a W900 water pump, or a W898 water pump on their RB26, and how it went? Thanks.
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Cheers mate I'll do the test.
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ha ha, yes I can tell that's going to be a friendly conversation.
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Hi everyone, I just took my freshly rebuilt car out to the shop to get a roadworthy. The guy at the shop failed me saying there was a bit of oil leaking out from the left hand side of the motor. I drove the car up one street to work, parked. When I came back about ten minutes later there was about two litres of oil out on the road. Before this I was thinking that the motor was getting a bit hot, it reached about 90 degrees, but it's a hot day. I've looked at the leak and I can't tell exactly where it's coming from yet. It appears to be coming from the front left hand side. The sump bolt is in, it's not on the turbo side, and I don't think it's the oil filter. I poured some more oil into the car, and I haven't started it. It hasn't leaked a drop of it?!? Does anyone have any thoughts/experience with what this could be? I suppose I should be greatful that there were actually 2 litres of oil in the car when I stopped. Cheers.
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Garrett 2860-5 Turbos
cactu5 replied to GT-R32's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Oops...............well there you go, you can get em. -
Garrett 2860-5 Turbos
cactu5 replied to GT-R32's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
This is true, from what I understand -5's aren't in production at the moment and although they are advertised on some sites, they are totally unavailable. I tried for quite a while to find a pair of -5's and couldn't. Good luck with sale. -
Scandal
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Doh, I went and had a look. You're totally right, the crank has to be machined right back, and it is obvious that it needs the new collar.
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Apparently you have to heat treat the collar to fit it on, and that's fine. The problem is that it seems to be like 5mm out. It just seems like a lot to machine. The motor should be an early model r32 one (December 89), but who knows what's coming out from Japan.
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I am currently in the process of rebuilding my rb26 out of an r32. I am rebuilding it because the oil pump started playing up as they so often do. I got the N1 pump and the pump collar. The motor looked untouched when we pulled it down. It is now getting put back together and the crank is in. The guy who is putting it back together is now telling me that there is no way that he can get the oil pump collar on. He also says that the pump is currently a perfect fit, and that I don't need the collar. My thinking is that of course it fits, but I should still need the collar. He is adamant that the collar is exactly the same dimensions as the fitting on the crank. I haven't seen it yet. My question is, can I check my engine number to see if the block is from an r33 GTR? And, does anyone know what might be going on? Thanks in advance.
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Spotted.....bright yellow r32 GTR with front mount intercooler. Last night in the city.
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That's brilliant mate, thanks.
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I called ESP and got a pretty good quote. If anyone has any other places they would like to recommend though that would still be great. Cheers.
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I did.
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Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone knows a good workshop to go to for an engine install in Canberra? It would be an RB26DETT into an r32 GTR. The only quote I've had so far was 2K, which is an absolute insult. It only cost $400 dollars to get it taken out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way I only want a quote on labour.
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http://www.zhome.com/History/MID-4.htm Check out this link
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Ne1 Using A El Cheapo Ebay Special Turbo?
cactu5 replied to skiwhine's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
This made me laugh. -
Thanks mate, I was wondering if that would be the case.
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I haven't even thought about Trust gear. Are these Trust T517Z's good, cheap, reliable and available?
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Thanks Snowman, I've also heard that I'd also need to get some gaskets to go with the -7's before fitting. So what is the overall extra cost with the -7's that I can get for $2490 after adding actuators and gaskets to the price? because I can get GT-SS's with gaskets and apparantly these actuators for about $3100 I think.
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Hi there, I have almost finished rebuilding my rb26dett motor with forged pistons, metal head gasket etc, and I am now on to replacing the turbos. The problem is I am not sure which ones to get. I am down to the usual three options...... Garrett 2860 -7's Garrett 2860 -5's & HKS GT-SS's I do not want more than 300kw's at the wheels with my set up. I want a smooth ride, and I don't particularly want to pay too much. With the -5's, I've heard that unless you want a ridiculous ammount of powerm, they lag and the drive can be uncomfortable. This seems a shame because a lot of people have also told me to get them. I also have noticed that I might be able to get some quite cheaply. The -7's are meant to be really close to the standard turbos which seems strange, because I would have thought I could run a lot of boost with them quite safely and I can't with the current set up. I've heard really good things about the GT-SS's but they also cost a fair bit. I was wondering..... How smooth is the ride with the -5's, especially with my power requirements? How limited are the -7's? And, how much better are the GT-SS's considering the price? I can't afford 2530's Any help would be great because I can see positives and negatives in all the setups so far. Cheers!
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Thanks mate, that's good to know.
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Hi guys, I'm in the process of rebuilding my rb26, it is getting bored out 20 thou to 86.5mm. I'm buying a metal head gasket at the moment and I have noticed that Cometech only make an 86mm and an 87mm head gasket. My question is how important is it to get an 86.5mm metal head gasket? What will happen if I don't? One person I spoke to said that I should just get an 87mm gasket, and that would be fine.
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Hi everyone, I'm in the middle of doing a rebuild on my rb26, and I'm starting to think about new turbos so I don't destroy all my good work with the shitty ceramic ones that are on it at the moment. I'm looking at........ ..HKS 2530's, Garrett 2860's -7's and -5's, and GTR R34 N1's. It appears that the -5's and the 2530's are identical....ish, and that the GTR R34's and the -7's are also the same, and that there is very little difference between them all, except that the first lot output more power. I was just wondering with all these turbo setups, do they bolt straight on to my existing setup (R32 GTR with 3 inch turbo back exhaust)? Or do I have to get dump pipes/different manifold? Also, what about tuning, do I have to get a power fc and tune it straight away, or is it fairly safe to run these setups just bolted on, and with the standard ecu tune, until I can afford power fc and tune? Thanks in advance!!!!