bubba

Looks like I can unlock the topic, if you guys would like to compile a list of known and reputable businesses, I will update the list

Did you keep the HICAS control unit in the boot?

Price drop to $1000!

Price drop $1100

Just pulled the Haltech out of my Stagea, it is/comes with: -e11v2 -3bar MAP sensor (less than 10,000km old) -Intake Air Temp sender -flying lead harness (NOT plug and play), has tuning cable attached Suit any application (I can advise how it was wired up to my 25Neo). Located in Perth, WA. (will ship) Price is $1200 ono

Cool

When is it?

Why platinum plugs? just go with NGK coppers

PM me if you want my indirect experience. As far as good machinists go, we use Tony at Nostech in Welshpool.

Try those places, I got one from Northside Nissan.

^^ this guy knows.

^^ pretty much but with the two translation and the latency change you usually still have to fiddle with the K constant to get it driving OK which you can't (read: shouldn't) do without a wideband. IF you do go about it that way and try to drive it to the tuners, DON'T BOOST IT, and take a spare set of plugs to swap in when you get there as they will probably foul up on the drive.

The compatible ECU issue is a non-issue as the board is already installed, if you were buying a 2nd hand board that had the base image for a different model of ECU then you would have an issue. As said, you need a consult cable and a copy of the software. There are built-in functions to resize the maps for different injectors and AFM's but you really need a wideband so you can tweak the K constant - unless you know what you're doing I would just tow it to the tuners

How handy are you with a soldering iron? I'm mucho busy at the moment but more than happy to guide you in its' creation Are you just planning to splice in the resistor box to the power feeds? What engine loom are you using? I found with the RB20 loom the injector layout was confusing (went past, to the water temp senders, then doubled back so it was like 6-5-4 .... 1-2-3) Suggest having a really good think about how you want to do your wiring Once I got my loom apart I found it easier to consolidate it all somewhat, traced the injector power feed and the injector earths back and made a whole new injector harness with brand new plugs.

I'll take the latter thanks But yeah cool, I should probably organise another NIStune group buy for teh Westralians!

Gear? Glad to hear you got it sorted mate, once it's in you will quickly realise going 30 is the best thing you ever did

I was looking at going the way dori34 has and while the sceptisim I came across scared me away, I'm impressed! What are the thoughts on the limits that sort of setup would have? dori34, how much clearance have you got to the tower and engine mount?

That's what I was thinking.. My understanding of compressor surge is that the turbo is pushing more air than the engine can actually ingest at that point in time.. So getting VCT working, which will increase the engines breathability in the low-mid rpm range may be enough to get rid of the surge.

I also reckon it will create a lean spot as the tune will not be expecting that vented air to return (i.e. it would have been tuned so as not to create a rich condition on throttle lift off when the atmo bov dumps the charge air)

As far as actually doing it goes, I use 1/4" grubscrews, drill out to whatever size you want, tap the block and fit grub screws (also for blocking the rear feed).

NIStune is actually the only real solution for you if you want to remain auto.

My EXACT philosphy too

But I believe it advances it an even 20deg. My comment wasn't directed at anyone in particular but more so at the generic comments of "leave it on all the time". I know when it is enabled at idle in my car the idle is far from smooth but could probably be tuned smooth. If left on in the high rpm range my set of the pants dyno tells me it has lost power. It also makes a huge difference in the midrange, particularly with a bigger turbo and helping it get on boost (even more particularly because my car is auto with the standard stall speed). Jez, if you get your setup working with the VCT on all the time below 'X' rpm, will that affect overrun running? i.e. trying to get my head around how the engine will respond on decel with the intake cam advanced 20deg

I think some people don't understand what VCT is actually doing..

^^ what he said