bubba

I would not be bagging out a manufacturer on a public forum when you haven't even used the product so have no idea if it works or not.

Shorter runners means less low down torque (mine is on a 3L so I'm not worried), we have proven a standard RB20 plenum and throttlebody can make 365rwkw so unless you have plenty of coin to splash about and lots of time to R&D I wouldn't bother. A bigger plenum chamber will probably give a bit of lag when opening the throttle as there is a lot more volume to fill. You should also be able to get an RB20 turbo highflowed enough to make a solid 240-260rwkw yet still be in the small factory packaging and fit on the factory exhaust manifold. If the standard engine setup fits, I would be inclined to keep it that way to get everything running (no point in introducing more possible failure/headache points) and then look at what can be optimised.

This isn't how you win friends and influence people.

Nah not really, cutting and welding the GTR plenum ($100) to the RB20 runners (already had) initially cost me $400. Then I had to wait for engine to go back in so I could figure out the water outlet which was the bulk of the headscratching as I wanted to retain the 3 water outlets under the runners. Ended up with a swirl pot that joins the water pipe underneath into the main water outlet and spits it out to the radiator, has fittings for the two temp senders and a bleed at the top because it's now the highest point of the cooling system. I think all up it cost me about $600 and a carton of beer

Tidy! If anyone wants a searchable pdf copy of the 32 gtr workshop manual.. you can find it at the following link for a few days (until I need the space back ). http://members.iinet.net.au/~psyko/car/gtr_32_service_manual_searchable.pdf

If the stock intake and exhaust manifolds fit then just run with those, if you want a turbo upgrade then get the RB20 turbo highflowed. Anything else will require someone to fabricate a manifold specific to your car. Intake wise, you can't get a F/Greddy for RB20. I didn't feel like going for an ebay option so I had a custom one made which after much headache is finished..

Feel free to PM me with info, I'm still yet to decide on a builder for my forged bottom end

I don't pay for labour and if I had to I wouldn't be doing any of this modifying shit Also agree that VLT stock gear is going to the cheapest and easiest way of getting a turbo on his car.

I can't remember if it bolts to the front or the rear of the cat (GTR workshop manual has an exploded exhaust diagram that shows it) but it basically bolts to the gearbox Xmember (or mount) and to flange of the cat. I'm currently trying to chase one down before I bolt my exhaust up MrStabby is on the money with the levering of the exhaust

The only thing that HAS to be done is a fuel pump that is up to the task. Standard clutch will last a very short while but a decent Exedy button clutch isn't exactly a wallet breaker. I know a 25 turbo will choke up on a 3L (I can show you dyno sheets as to just how much it will choke up) but with some slightly taller diff ratios it's not a huge drama and is actually a whole heap of fun to drive what with the spooling from idle, 12psi by 2200rpm and instant boost in any gear. I've done a few 30 conversions now and as long as everything is in reasonable condition it's not as hard or as expensive as most people make it out to be. He already has a 3L in there so I was suggesting buying a broken complete RB25 to just pilfer the head/manifolds/ecu/ancillaries which compared to your whole Neo already brings the prices down by almost $1500. I didn't say it was the BEST option (although I do believe the 25/30 IS the best way to go, but I'm a tad biased ) but merely another OPTION to consider. Personally I think it could be done cheaper than an RB20/25 swap and I'm not some e-mechanic saying so, I've done it.

Yes, the 100mm is fully loaded.

With all due respect Rolls, because I really do respect what you have to say: What turbo gear? I said a COMPLETE RB25 with turbo and manifolds etc.. Clutch, tyres, fuel pump etc are NOT part of the engine swap and I consider them to be things you should be doing anyway even though they are not directly related to the engine. Even with a decent clutch and fuel pump (decent tyres, srsly why even mention it in regards to an engine swap?) + the cost of a dead RB25 will still likely be significantly less than a halfcut.

+11ty to above and have you checked all the cooler pipe connections?

Are you venting to atmosphere? I think you need to do a little more research.. there is many threads on here about this type of thing.. What I was trying to point out to you is that if you want a "maintenance free" system (meaning it automatically drains back to the sump) then you need to run a two stage system if NOT venting to atmo. The first stage is a "catch can" which vents into an "oil/air separator" and then plumbs the vent back into the intake. The "catch can" can have a drain back to the sump (or via dipstick) but I would be more inclined to put a T and a ball valve in the dipstick line, run one hose to the top of the catch can as a vent and have the valve opening this way normally. Then have a drain from the bottom of the catch can to the ball valve so that when you want to empty the catch can back into the sump you open the valve. Personally, my setup is atmo with each cam breather and dipstick going to the catch can and I don't drain it back to the sump.

Do you have the standard exhaust hanger that bolts to the gearbox mount?

I don't reckon it will, not if he's using his standard bottom end. I would almost put money on the fact it would come in cheaper than an RB25 swap as the engine itself will be a fair bit cheaper. -busted RB25 complete with turbo and manifold $500? -weld the water jacket on head, drill VCT feed, dunno as I used an R32 head so maybe a hundred bucks or so for welding and facing -OEM RB26 head gasket <$100 -OEM RB25 intake/exhaust gaskets ~$150 -new idler/tensioner <$100 -25/30 timing belt <$100 -oil restrictor <$5 for a grub screw and a couple of drill bits -2mm washer to shim oil pump pressure relief spring -modify p/s pump bracket -modify standard rb25 exhaust manifold to clear rb30 block -another couple of hundred for miscellaneous hoses, clamps etc Things like exhaust will be a custom job whichever way you go (unless fully standard VLT parts are used). Food for thought..

I've never seen one for sale, ever.. have you tried Northside Nissan? probably be ex-Japland with an overnight premium. Also maybe try Steve May, he might have one on a half cut somewhere.

Another option is to buy an RB25 with a broken bottom end and do a 25/30 conversion on your standard bottom end..

Sussed it I think, there are a couple which will only have about 10mm of thread engaged but most are between 15-20mm and I checked the long ones in the head to see how far they will go in before bottoming out

Always a good idea when getting wires but I have a feeling it's more of a thermocouple (IIRC it was just one sheathed wire)?

It's not needed, all it does is activate a light on the dash when your cat gets too hot. Previous owner had cut the one in my 32 so I just poked the cable back up through the hole

Yeah it points to one and says "Intake manifold bolts" and gives the order to remove/refit them but that's it..

I've got enough of my own misguided directions! There's a few different lengths used due to the different thicknesses in the casting, going to screw a few into the head when I get home to help figure out which bolts go where

Question for Corey (or anyone else who may have an RB20 intake manifold off the engine), I need some assistance indentifying all the manifold > head bolts