bubba

Reimax gears are in the N1 pump and on the engine, unfortunately a dick P plater wrote the car off before I could lean on the setup Will have to wait a few months for the driveline to make its' way into the 34 before I can comment further

Sounds like spark breaking down.. My money is on coilpacks or coil harness (the plugs go brittle over time and fall apart).

Stock ECU or maps has idled fine on all my 30's, I would be looking for a vacuum leak or checking the afm connections.

^^ yep have had a shell removed like that before and I'm sure it was Sims, access may be an issue?

Of the 3 holes on the top, does the one in the middle look like you can screw something into it? (i.e. is there a thread) The CHRA on my highflows look similar but my turbo builder tapped the centre hole to take a 1/4 BSP I think it was. If it's not tapped, then see above

Oil feed, is the centre hole tapped?

Hmm good luck with that one I reckon 34R is 3.5ish but may be too tall

Is the stock balancer brand new? I wouldn't be running a second hand one.. and I agree with 7k max. As for the collar issue, that is the reason I searched around for a quality machinist that would weld the snout up and machine back to suit the gears, some people don't like that idea but it works for us.

Standard diff uses one long, one short shaft (can't remember which side is which). My Nismo diff was supplied with two SHORT shafts, they were NOT special Nismo items, just OEM replacements.

No idea, hence why I said if there was enough interest I will go out of my way to find out Is 350Z brembo the same offset as skyline? I know the stock 350z discs we use on the Stageas are a different offset to the skyline discs. The ones I have been running (for several years) have the spacers welded to the brackets, have seen the loose spacer types which would be easier to make (no welding) and easier to change offsets according to what disc you want to run.

3.9s are awesome with 3L torque

350Z rotors, just need to make sure that when you tighten the caliper bolts you use a couple of screw drivers to ensure the caliper is as far from the rotor as possible.

^^This guy knows. I've actually got a few different types drawn up, if there is enough interest I can go talk to a laser cutter

Resistance.. I used 10ohm resistors when wiring in the GTR injectors, I think total the stock injectors are 12-14ohms Length.. not sure, would say full (longer than my new injectors which are apparently 3/4 length) Plug.. GTR is Bosh EV1 style and stock plugs fit GTR injectors if the locating tab is filed off. I think they are actually 10.5mm not 11mm Fuel system is a 3-bar system so with no vacuum signal you should be seeing 43-44psi And yes, 270cc Changing to a GTR style setup will open your options right up and it's just a small wiring change. I spent big dollars on drop in replacements but the latest setup I just went with second GTR injectors, made my own resistor box and made a whole new injector harness with brand new bosch plugs. Bang for buck I got my drop in replacements from Powerflow Injection I think they're called, supplied plugs too but they were second hand chopped off some loom they had laying around..

Really knows his stuff too

It would work but maybe not as well as just before the throttle body, may get a bit of reversion. When I went forward facing plenum in my 32gtst (custom setup, not GReddy so didn't go through the battery tray), I fitted a full 32GTR cooler/piping/bov/recirc setup. Really nice solution! With the 34 I will do the same but just run 2" pipe straight across instead of the molded plastic GTR recirc pipe

I could walk there! I know they used to do nitro onroad a while ago but got shut down or something.. didn't know there was drifting there Is it competetive or are n00bs tolerated? it's not on PVC/ABS is it? I built this rig to torch rubber

This ^^ You pretty much would have to run a 34GTT ECU, which isn't such a bad thing as they can be NIStuned but would mean changing CAS, coilpacks?, afm?, injectors?

Ring Grant at Per4manz Turbos and see if he can help

Not a lot around here in Perth so my car pretty much collects dust on the shelf except for when it needs to come out to dispell any brushless myths I will say however, I wouldn't waste too much money/time/effort on the TT01 (been there, done that) as they really are only entry level and cannot handle any decent power. My setup is a HPI Pro-D with Mamba Max brushless & esc but only on a 2S lipo for now.. fkn hauls ass!

My non-turbo 34 does the same thing most mornings on cold start, goes in but makes a horribly grinding/whirring noise.. pop it out of gear, pump the clutch a few times and put it back in, no worries. If I pump the clutch a few times BEFORE trying to put it into reverse for the first time, it doesn't do it. This leads me to suspect there is a tiny bit of air in the system..

Take the gasket to any laser cutting place.. Action Laser Cutting for example, I think they charge $66 + material

Always lol my laggy auto ran consistent 15.5's with a 3.something 60' Bah Sunday is our last training session before we fly out, bring home the bling from Thailand is more important than you bishes

Very nice!

Search for RB26 single turbo setups.. Delving into the depths of my minimal RB26 knowledge.. I think it's the same as running a single AFM on a GTR where you just wire the two sensor circuits in parallel to the single sensor.